Call Back Question?

5 Star

I got a call back on a garage I did but was unable to take pictures so I will describe it the best I can.

Problem: cracks at joints,some not all ceiling walls and corners,but no butt joints. 30x30 with 11' walls with living space above. At first I thought the floor joists above were not strong enough but then I found cracks in walls,corners also? I have had bad mud before but all of these cracks are down the middle of the tape not at all on the sides (tape seperation) could it still be bad mud? It was green lid first and second and then topping for the third.

To fix I thought about mesh tape with hot mud maybe durabond?

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

LS

Kiwiman

Could be any number of things, check if they've had a flood or anything that would cause moisture/humidity problems, any screws popping? if it's a new building maybe the concrete floor hasn't dried enough before the garage was closed in. I've had good success with sheetrock mesh and the equivilant of your durabond for crack repairs (papertape corners). First establish whats caused the problem, then don't repair it until the building has settled down.

At the end of the day it's never ever ever ever the plasterers fault.

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How much mud could a mud chucker chuck if a mud chucker could chuck mud.

Big Shoe

Did you prefill gaps? Did you let the tape dry before second coat? Many different things can cause that.

Take a razor knife and cut and peel all loose tape away, then mesh flats,paper angles. Good luck.

Frankawitz

I would have used Durabond 90 as my bed coat with paper tape, corners and flats, then I would of second coat with Durabond then finished with topping.
This way you know you tape is well imbedded in the mud. was the board tight in the corners? if you had to fill and you used ready mix it would have cracked, also what about the night time temps? did this garage have heat?



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Brocktologist

With the ever changing environment and movement of garages we can do everything correct and still have it crack. With that in mind why would you warranty a garage?

AARC Drywall

sounds like the building is has shifted or settled..

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5 Star

I should mention I did not hang it so some things I do not know. Its not a warrenty job I just want to help the guy out becasue it will lead to alot more work and he is a friend.. It is heated (floor heat) moisture is not a problem. the tape was well bedded, no prefill the hang job was good.

A 30 x 30 Garage with 11' walls attached to house on one wall with living space above (30' span floor) and a 5/12 pitch roof all lends me to belive it is moving. The wind load alone the way the house sits is a lot, add to it living space above. The walls are 2x6 but I never did see the frame job but if the joists are flexing that means the walls are also. I should also mention the cracks in the cieling are 15 to 20 feet long while the walls are shorter which tells me movment.

I'm going to dig out, patch with Durabond/mesh and then do a light texture to hide extra mud and unsandable durabond.

Thanks guys
LS

jmr

what temp are you working in? if you taped in cold weather below 30 tape cracks or falls. is his garage climate controlled? if its northern climate i almost never guarantee any finish unless garage is heated.

Frankawitz

You mentioned mesh tape, are all the joints done that way? if they are that is the problem I would have used paper tape with Durabond 90, I would have filled all gaps in the corners and between the boards with 90, then pulled it all with 90. then finish them off with topping.



www.frankawitz.net

strathd

Is this on a slab or foundation ? If on a foundation how deep was the footer ? I won't build a garage on a slab as you are allways going to have settling and shifting.

5 Star

Northern climate, North Dakota, weather was 45 plus one year ago. In floor/radiant heat, floor has 4' footers as it is an attached garage. Used paper tape with green lid for bedding, next time I will use durabond,

Thanks
LS