Banjo Help

Worm Drive

I just dusted mine off for the first time in about 10 years, for a remodel I'm working on. Talk about being rusty (me, not the banjo) , I forgot how much work it is and how messy. Anyway, I'm having problems with my joints being dry. Not consistently dry, it will be going on thick, then suddenly go dry, even though there is plenty of mud in it. Maybe I'm not thinning the mud out enough or could be my technique. What should my mud consistency be? Is there a flick move I'm supposed to be doing to keep the mud down near the nose piece?

I learned to mud following behind my old boss, who was running a banjo and remember having to watch for an occasional dry spot, but not like this. On the job I'm doing, about every third joint bubbled after the first coat and had to be scraped off and fixed. The guy wiping behind me is a newbee to mudding but, some of the problem joints were ones that I had wiped down, so I can't blame it all on him. Anyway, I would appreciate any pointers you pros could give me. Thanks, Grinder BTW, I'm using a Goldblatt dry type banjo.

BUTCHERMAN

Could be a number of things. Taping mud should be all purpose (USG green). It should be watered to the thicknes of (for lack of better example) soft air pumped ice cream. Also check the adjustment height on the blade (you may need to close it more). It also may be open more on one side then the other so you may be dry on one side and mudded on the other. lets start with that. let me know if that works.

Worm Drive

Thanks for the reply. I did use the green lid mud. Mud consistency sounds about right by your description. The wiper blade does appear cocked to one side. I'll try to straighten it out. I'm hand taping my repairs so, I won't try my banjo again until I finish the upstairs remodel and rock the downstairs. At this point I'm a little scared to try it again.

One question, why not blue lid mud for taping. I've read a lot of posts saying not to use but, never a reason. The bucket claims that it's exceptional for embedding tape.

oldrivers

well yes you can use just about any mud for taping but the green mud dries harder and shrinks a little pulling the tape into the recess more. Plus i think the green mud gives you more longivity . eventually the mud and tape will start falling apart from moisture etc the green mud resists this better over the long run because its a harder mud .

Tim0282

The blue lid mud compresses funny when you use in a banjo or a bazooka. Black or green are far better. Like was already stated. Also, it sounds like the mud was a touch too stiff. I always used a rubber glove on my left hand to help grip the tape and keep my hand clean. Just dropped the glove off when the banjo was empty, then wiped down and then refilled and slid the glove back on. Sure saved from getting mud all over my pan.

BUTCHERMAN

BULLSEYE

Worm Drive

I think I'll make the mud a little sloppier next time. I was struggling a lot trying to get the tape out and kept ripping the tape. The other thing is that the banjo has two posts in the mud box. The tape runs under and around the bottom post and over the top post. I've seen banjos with out any posts, which lets the tape stay in contact with the mud, as the mud is used up. Maybe I should try running the tape under the top post to see if that helps. Thanks for the help, guys.

BUTCHERMAN

If you are ripping the tape a few things could be the problem. 1) the mud is too thick. 2) You are over filling the banjo. 3) the front and back openings are either closed too much or need to be cleaned. 4) the tape holder is clamping the tape so it doesn't roll freely.

Brockster

I've always been told the green bud has more adhesive in it. The adhesive is the clear goo on the top of the mud after it set for a while in a container.

__________________

Tapingfool

try adding some water, it usually helps.. Also why not invest in regular taping tools??

Worm Drive

Cause I'm a carpenter that does mainly small remodels.

BUTCHERMAN

Hey don't sweat it.I have 20 years on the banjo. Unlike most guys i prefer the banjo over hand tape and bazooka. I know all these methods and just like the banjo. We'll get this thing working for you. Just stick it out a little longer and it will pay off for you.

mdshunk

I don't know much about banjo's, but I really like that Foggy Mountain Breakdown song.

oldrivers

banjos are cheap, id go out and purchase an updated modern one without posts, seems to me the posts would wipe off the mud as the tape passed around them for one and wouldnt it also cause unwanted drag on thet tape you can also sharpen the cutting blade.

BUTCHERMAN

I don't like the posts either. But i find if your comfortable with it there's no reason to change.

Worm Drive

It's not that I'm more comfortable with it, it's just what I have. I think I could try just bypassing the top post and it would be the same thing as the post-less model. If it works better, I can remove the posts and plug the holes with stainless bolts.

Capt-Sheetrock

Thats where most of your problem is coming from, I don't know why they ever put that top post in there at all, but skip it. If you don't, when you get it 1/2 empty, it will start leaveing your tape dry, I used a glodblait for years, and never used the top post. It will work just fine without the posts, the tape will drag across the mud fine as you pull it. Good luck

Tapingfool

well then why not just call a professional spackler?? if not you can use a banjo i guess, or a small bazooka, you don't need the whole set just a taper and pump!!!

SES Constructio

Can you use hot mud in a banjo if you thin it out enough?

BUTCHERMAN

Yes,But i recomend 90 or greater unless it's a small bath or something. For some reason i find running it through a banjo excellerates drying time. It seems the more you work it the quicker it sets.