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11-19-2009, 09:56 PM
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#21
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Pro
Trade:
carpenter/ handyman
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Conroe, TX
Posts: 992
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If I have a stubborn tape I'll staple it down with 3/8" stainless staples. Problem fixed & they will never rust. For 10"x10" patches or less, I use metal plate/ mesh patches. I buy the large contractor packs at Lowes.
Steve
Quote:
Originally Posted by rselectric1
Gene, I've been using that too with pretty good results. However, it always requires just a little prouder application of mud. (I use 5 or 20 for the little bit I do). I would love to hear the "real secret" about applying tape without bubbling.
I'll bet the rockers are laughing at me. 
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11-19-2009, 09:59 PM
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#22
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Pro
Trade:
Licensed Electrical Contractor and Remodeler
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chicago Suburbs
Posts: 2,059
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Thanks guys. I won't tell the hacks personally but anyone can view this site so they might find out.
I am now waiting with baited breath for the next time I need to do a patch.
__________________
220...221...whatever it takes!
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11-20-2009, 05:38 PM
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#23
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Pro
Trade:
Plastering, Drywall, Painting, Woodworking, Stucco, refinishing woodwork
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: South Eastern Michigan outside of Detroit.
Posts: 1,299
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rs, The thing about the hacks they don't care what the job looks like or how long it will last, most have the Attitude of "Hey can't see it from my house!"  That's when you know  so I could put out step by step and the hacks wouldn't listen cause they already know
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The Following User Says Thank You to Frankawitz For This Useful Post:
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11-20-2009, 08:57 PM
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#24
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Pro
Trade:
Drywall
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rselectric1
Thanks guys. I won't tell the hacks personally but anyone can view this site so they might find out.
I am now waiting with baited breath for the next time I need to do a patch. 
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Heres a great point to remember about patch work,,, when a HO asks you how long you been doing this,,,, LOOK at em, say "counting today?" then look away and and act like your counting,,,,,, really gets em fired up ,,,,hee hee
About knives, tho,,, You should probbly get some blue steel knives (they are easier when your getting the hang of it,, after you get done, wash them, I like to use a sanding block to wash em with, just throw the block in the bucket of water, and then spray them LIBERALLY with WD-40, then throw them in your tool box so they aren't exsposed to the elements, and they will last for years,,, I have a wall-board 7 that I use to wipe tape with,,, they quit making this knive in 76 and it still works fine,,, just got to learn how to take care of em)
Last edited by Capt-Sheetrock; 11-20-2009 at 09:03 PM.
Reason: added something worthwhile
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11-20-2009, 09:02 PM
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#25
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Pro
Trade:
Licensed Electrical Contractor and Remodeler
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chicago Suburbs
Posts: 2,059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt-Sheetrock
Heres a great point to remember about patch work,,, when a HO asks you how long you been doing this,,,, LOOK at em, say "counting today?" then look away and and act like your counting,,,,,, really gets em fired up ,,,,hee hee
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I actually did some minor prep work and painting when I was in high school, so I could say 20 years and not be lying.  
__________________
220...221...whatever it takes!
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The Following User Says Thank You to rselectric1 For This Useful Post:
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11-21-2009, 07:29 AM
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#26
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Pro
Trade:
Making Everyone Happy
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Omaha Ne
Posts: 121
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Thank you everyone for your help on my (blistering) issues.
I think i need to be more gentle when i apply my tape, i usually put the mud on pretty thick and then i will knife it off with a lot of pressure next time i do some i will try not scraping it so hard
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11-21-2009, 09:18 AM
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#27
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Contractor
Trade:
Remodeling & Home Additions
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Delaware
Posts: 1,714
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I figured out my tape blistering issues quite some time ago by experimenting; I had been pushing all the mud out from under the tape...that problem's been fixed. Did my best work a couple of weeks ago-ceiling fixed on third application early the second day...that's good for me :-)
question: what is the brown bag durabond and how does it differ from 'white' bag?
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11-21-2009, 09:42 AM
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#28
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One of the sheep
Trade:
Tile installer/bathroom remodeler
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Will County, Illinois
Posts: 2,117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72chevy4x4
question: what is the brown bag durabond and how does it differ from 'white' bag?
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Brown dries harder than plaster and is not meant to be sanded. I use it for first coats.
__________________
Angus
"If you're good at something, never do it for free."
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11-24-2009, 08:41 PM
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#29
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Pro
Trade:
Bathroom Design Build Contractor
Join Date: May 2008
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angus242
Brown dries harder than plaster and is not meant to be sanded. I use it for first coats.
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Many many years ago I was doing a bathroom and the customer asked if I could sand and finish coat some drywall in the basement that had been started about a year earlier. Whoever had done the tape coat used Durabond 90 and overfilled - a lot - there was probably an 1/8-3/16" of mud slathered on the joints - man what a PITA to try and finish!!
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11-25-2009, 12:30 AM
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#30
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Pro
Trade:
drywall applications
Join Date: May 2007
Location: mpls area
Posts: 321
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hmmmmm, a good drywall taper can use just about any mud and not have tape fall off. somemuds just lasts longer than others but if its falling off i would say the last thing would be the mud causing it.
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11-25-2009, 01:42 AM
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#31
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Bathrooms and Fireplaces
Trade:
Bathroom and Fireplace Renovator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: North Vancouver
Posts: 160
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Dry wall tapping tip
If you can find some of Zissner's Guardz - Damaged Drywall Sealer pick up a gallon.
We tape and board most of our bathroom projects and to make them bullet proof we first tape our joints and let them dry out. Next day we give the paper tape a coat of Guardz. Any loose seams blister on the spot and with a razor the tape can be reset with the Guardz.
The best thing about this technique is on the final sanding if you sand to far the guardz has sealed the tape and it doesn't fray very much.
Zero call backs since we started this in our bathrooms do to steam lifting the paper tape.
I believe other companies call their product wall paper repairer or something like that.
__________________
.
.
.................................................. .................................................. ........."When It's Perfect. It's good enough." - John Whipple
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11-25-2009, 01:57 AM
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#32
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Pro
Trade:
Painting/Framing/Drywall/Tile
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: KC
Posts: 1,758
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these type problems are no real deal if you have any time under your belt. what the hell was the qu3wstion again???
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The Following User Says Thank You to nEighter For This Useful Post:
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11-25-2009, 02:02 AM
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#33
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Pro
Trade:
Painting/Framing/Drywall/Tile
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: KC
Posts: 1,758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt-Sheetrock
Heres a great point to remember about patch work,,, when a HO asks you how long you been doing this,,,, LOOK at em, say "counting today?" then look away and and act like your counting,,,,,, really gets em fired up ,,,,hee hee
About knives, tho,,, You should probbly get some blue steel knives (they are easier when your getting the hang of it,, after you get done, wash them, I like to use a sanding block to wash em with, just throw the block in the bucket of water, and then spray them LIBERALLY with WD-40, then throw them in your tool box so they aren't exsposed to the elements, and they will last for years,,, I have a wall-board 7 that I use to wipe tape with,,, they quit making this knive in 76 and it still works fine,,, just got to learn how to take care of em)
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blue steel flexes the best. Too bad the SS ones don't.
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11-25-2009, 04:53 AM
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#34
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Pro
Trade:
Repair/Remodel
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 901
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Either mesh tape or quick set pretty much guaranties no blisters. I find Silverset 40 is really sticky, you'd have to screw up pretty bad to get any blisters. Otherwise, if you're using paper tape with regular cold mud, a few things that have messed me up is waiting too long before applying the tape, giving the mud time to dry out. Or having the heat turned up while mudding. Or not putting enough water in the mud, or no water, taking it right out of the box which is dumb. Besides that, I think it's just experience, like everyone else was saying.
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11-25-2009, 07:04 PM
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#35
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Pro
Trade:
Drywall
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nEighter
blue steel flexes the best. Too bad the SS ones don't. 
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Thats why I posted it like I did,,, SS is for them what know what thier doing,,, if your not there yet, PLEASE use the blue steel ones,,, just clean em real good,,, rust will screw a knife up real gutt
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11-25-2009, 07:07 PM
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#36
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Pro
Trade:
Drywall
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennMacMoragh
Either mesh tape or quick set pretty much guaranties no blisters. I find Silverset 40 is really sticky, you'd have to screw up pretty bad to get any blisters. Otherwise, if you're using paper tape with regular cold mud, a few things that have messed me up is waiting too long before applying the tape, giving the mud time to dry out. Or having the heat turned up while mudding. Or not putting enough water in the mud, or no water, taking it right out of the box which is dumb. Besides that, I think it's just experience, like everyone else was saying.
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True, but then again mesh tape garuntees CRACKED joints.
The topic is blisters,,, that supposes tape,, One of two ways to go here,, learn to tape and avoid blisters,, or use mesh and not have a problem with blisters, but be assured that your joints will crack,,,,, Oh well, at least they won't blister
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11-25-2009, 07:57 PM
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#37
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Pro
Trade:
drywall
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kentucky/USA
Posts: 242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnFRWhipple
If you can find some of Zissner's Guardz - Damaged Drywall Sealer pick up a gallon.
We tape and board most of our bathroom projects and to make them bullet proof we first tape our joints and let them dry out. Next day we give the paper tape a coat of Guardz. Any loose seams blister on the spot and with a razor the tape can be reset with the Guardz.
The best thing about this technique is on the final sanding if you sand to far the guardz has sealed the tape and it doesn't fray very much.
Zero call backs since we started this in our bathrooms do to steam lifting the paper tape.
I believe other companies call their product wall paper repairer or something like that.
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OMG! Now I can finally say that " I've heard it all."
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11-25-2009, 08:01 PM
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#38
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Pro
Trade:
Drywall
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddauber
OMG! Now I can finally say that " I've heard it all." 
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I felt that way,, but last year after I had hung a job,,, the HO came in the day I was tapeing it and said,, "I see your done hanging ,,, I guess its time to start PASTEING it" ........
I said,,
thats right mamn,,,, what else could ya say ????
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11-25-2009, 08:22 PM
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#39
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Pro
Trade:
drywall
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kentucky/USA
Posts: 242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt-Sheetrock
I felt that way,, but last year after I had hung a job,,, the HO came in the day I was tapeing it and said,, "I see your done hanging ,,, I guess its time to start PASTEING it" ........
I said,,
thats right mamn,,,, what else could ya say ????
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Done a church addition a few years back. One of the church ladies walked in and asked, when are you going to DOO-WOP the ceilings?
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11-25-2009, 11:12 PM
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#40
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Pro
Trade:
Licensed Electrical Contractor and Remodeler
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chicago Suburbs
Posts: 2,059
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Captain Sheetrock ROCKS!
I say so, and when I was out drinking with Angus today, he said the same thing.
__________________
220...221...whatever it takes!
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