Anyone Do A 2 Coat Bevel Joint?

AARC Drywall

Morning Gents/Gals

One of my tapers and i are having a discussion on how many coats to do with the box's.
Currently he is using the auto taper, then 10" on 2 setting, and final with a 12" on 3or 4 setting.

I am in the mindset that we should be running the 7" to fill the bevels, then 10 on 3 and 12 on 5

I am curious as to what everyone else runs...

J

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Profit is NOT a dirty word....Cheap is....

Brocktologist

Why? Are you having a problem?
BTW, as you already know numbers change from one box to another and can change as the blade runs down.Don't forget to check with a new 12 or 14" knife every so often.

kcremodeling

We run it the same way you do. Banjo, 10 inch box wide open, 12 inch box on 2 or 3. We run the butt joints a little different to cover a 24 inch span. We have become far more efficient using these tools. I have a set of goldblatt tools. They have actually ran pretty good. It's rare we do entire houses but we have dont quite a few basements. I would never consider finishing more than a small room without tools.

http://www.kcbasementfinishing.com

Capt-Sheetrock

I tape with a bazooka (banjo if its a small one) then bed with an 8 (box) and skim with a 10 (box). In NC the bevels are only 5 1/2" wide, I don't try to cover half the borad on a flat.

Like Brock said,,, just put a knife on the wall,, if its flat, its flat (ever wonder why they call em flats??),, if it ain't, run it again,,,, it really is that simple, ya know, we ain't rocket surgeons !!!!

Muddauber

I run 8"-10"-12". The 12" I'm using now does the best finish on #3.

Capt-Sheetrock

With all due respect, Why in the hel& are you running three coats on a flat???

Brocktologist

Rush rush rush, who has the time for the third coat regardless if it is necessary or not?
Now if you had something like a 20" box I maybe able to justify it in well lit areas and cathedrals. But an 8" 10" and 12" for flats seems a bit anal.

AARC Drywall

Thanks all, It just sets my point, I suspect that the blades need replacing, but will check next week. I would rather run two coats, it makes more sense, and cuts out unnessasary steps. We have only had one problem as minor as it was, the contractor said the joint was a bit transparent, we ran a 12" again and all was good.
We do check with the 12 or 14 and all is good, but this gent is use to putting the mud on and sanding later.....mmm its hard to get him to the new ways of box's. Some of our other tapers swear by 2 coats...it makes for interesting lunch topics


J

__________________
Profit is NOT a dirty word....Cheap is....

Aaron111

put some pics for us to see ... then I can help you better .... Aloha fro Oahu

Capt-Sheetrock

that happens alot, IF the GC is used to seeing flats run with a 12, he will assume you don't have enough mud on the wall if you run it with a 10,,,, never thinking to put a straight wdge up to it, to REALLY see. Its hard to argue with ignorance, or "the way its always been done"

Damonceles

we 7 box quickset and drag a knife behind the boxer to remove airbubbles and press the quickset into the fiberglass tape. then run a 12 to finish for heavy textures,or a 10 then a 12 for slick finish

Capt-Sheetrock

We use a bazooka and then bed with a 8 and finish with a 10 for slick-fill. we use a bazooka and bed with a 8 and finish with a 10 for textured walls.

drover_brad

when i put on my tapes i fill the bevels then I coat using my 10 inch box on three and, 12 inch on three as well but then do a polish over everything, witch is just thin mud putting it on the taking it off

Capt-Sheetrock

Are you saying that after you tape,, you "back-skim" the bevels, before you tape and skim? what I'm asking is isin't this a 3 coat fill also? I opligize ahead of time if i read this wroong.

d's

I have done a 2 coat bevel and everything else at the request of unfussy renovators trying to save a buck. I'll hang, tape corners with taping mud but wipe clean, mesh the bevels, coat everything with 90min.(using 10" trowels |&( on joints, 2.5 in corner), have a late lunch, quick scrape, coat with finishing mud (10"& 16" flat trowels, 3.5 in corners), let dry 48 hours, sand out, do some pinkies and leave them an old sponge for sanding. Good enough for some - but wouldn't recommend it as your "best finish". My usual is 1st coat with 8" box, 2nd with 10", then roll skim and wipe with 14" offset knife. That being said you could probably get away with it if your boxes were well tuned & you didn't mind some extra sanding and touching up.
Now that I think of it, it probably would save time in rooms with no butt joints - I'll have to try it and see!

D'S

Capt-Sheetrock

huh? can you say that in English?

d's

Let me paraphrase myself "blah, blah, blah, blah"

oldrivers

as said above each box is different so you cant go by numbers, also how lose you run the mud will change the requirements. 10 inch box then wipe with a blade , then finish with the 12 ,, no 7 " here those are for sissies hahaha just kidding.

Preacher17

I just let the wall dictate how many coats I put on....

jmr

im under the assumption the wider the feather the better. i use a 10" fill coat box and 12" finish coat both are northstars.. JUST 2 COATS on top of tape bed otherwise your over working (unless your getting paid for the additional work). i swear by this method though..

as far as settings go all boxes are different and good sheet rock job pending. north star boxes come pre crowned.. my settings are as follows: fill coat is set at 3 for flat work and 1 for butt joints both walls and cielings, i'll run 3/4 on tape and run another about an 1" next to tape for butts to leave a fill area and come and hand fill the center.... then i'll do 3 on everything.. unless lid is knock down then i'll do 4 for finish..

depending on your box, setting 2 may be too much fill resulting in humped flat work..

just my 2 cents.