Step Flashing Question...is This Your Territory?

Pennyroyal's

I am NOT a mason or step flashing guy I am a carpenter remodeler, let me make that perfectly clear and I know someone out there has the answer to this. whether it can be explained is to be seen
Ok...I have built a porch....gable/12-3/shingle to brick wall. My question is how do I space the counterflashing in the mortar joint so the step look is consistant . I have installed the base flashing and brought it up the wall about 4 inches. The counterflashing will of course be imbedded in the mortar after I cut the mortar out but the spacing is coming out odd and I know there is a practical method here to get that step look. Is there a technique or diagram to show this method? Any advice is appreciated.
Joe.

genecarp

Muliple posts is not a good way to get answers, it is frowned upon here.

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mhillc

Maybe i'm not understanding it right but why step the flashing at all,why not take an angle grinder and cut a groove in the brick the lenth of the roof aboe groove 4 or 5 inches above the roof and bend the metal into the groove of the brick and down onto the roof .

neolitic

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mhillc

There is no problem with doing it this way

neolitic

Other than it looks ugly,
and says "I don't care."

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mhillc

It's really not ugly.I think it looks good and its water tight but every one has there own opinion. and i'm in the few that really care about my work.I learned alot from the old school guys that i worked for.

ChrWright

I agree.

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mhillc

Like i said eveyone has an opinion. Thats the way its done in and around my area

stacker

thats the way i do it.but of course im not licensed.

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mhillc

Somebody's always gotta be a smart a$$

Pennyroyal's

There is no way in hell cutting a line on an angle through the brick is acceptable.
The "old school" way has been fine since brick was first made and is fine today. The question is ....how is it figured?


Gencarp, I realized roofers might not be the most knowledgeable on this topic so claiming I am putting out multiple questions is not the case here. I rethought it and masons might be a better source for the answer. I have been on here long enough to know the rules so you don't need to be the sentry of contractortalk ettiquette in this case. Joe.

neolitic

So that the are as nearly equal
as you can make them, and it is
pleasing to the eye.

Since you are fairly new,
he is pointing out that it does
get confusing, and irritating when
folks are answering in different threads.
Besides it dilutes information and you
won't get the same feed back.

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genecarp

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WarnerConstInc.

I dont care for it like that either. I have had to do it like that before though.

jaros bros.

Cut the angle with a guide and a diamond blade. Do not run in down on the roof. Install step flashing. Use a spring joint to install the flashing into the kerf.

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A W Smith

count off how many courses of brick get covered by the slope of the intersecting roof. That may be the count of steps if the roof slope is real shallow. If steep it may be two courses or even three. divide the count of steps by the total width of the brick wall you are intersecting. This should be your exposed width of each step (not including the underlap of the next step of the slope). Hopefully if you are lucky your layout might even land on a head joint. if not you can bend the step into a hem that can interlock with a reverse hem on the previous step to keep it hugging the brick wall and not flapping in the breeze. TRY to get your stairstep corner alignment to match the slope of the roof. Nothing looks ****tier that steps climbing away from the roof slope or uneven skipped or staggered steps.

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artisanstone

The reason that cutting a diagonal reglet is not right is that it weakens the chimney in exactly the spot that it is most vulnerable. The two failure spots for chimneys are the top and the roof intersection.

Snap two lines parallel to the roof slope. One will represent the outermost points of the steps, and one will be for the inside corners. Draw plumb and level lines to intersect with these, and you're good. I would cut a reglet in both the plumb and level lines. Cut and bend all your metal pieces to make sure they fit. Fill all the cuts with high quality sealant before putting your metal in. Make shims from your metal stock and hammer in to secure everything.

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Pennyroyal's

neolitic

Well stated, good explanation.

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