dave peffer

Wondering if you guys will advise... Georgia climate- I have a brick Vaneer wall facing south that has developed a stair-stepped mortar cracking problem. The section is on both sides of an outside corner. To me it looks like an expansion issue since the section in question has moved about 1/4" to 3/8" out of its position. Wish I could post a Pic, But I'm a tile setter and we're not too bright.
The foundation is not showing any sign of a problem, no cracks or visible settling in this area or any others.
If I thought it would solve the problem, I am capable of tuckpointing the area...but my gut feeling goes back to thermal expansion. Will the section have to come down and if so, how .......well, let me just ask you what you advise.

While I'm at it, I also have water penetrating at the chimney and I looked it over and found sloped mortar at the top around the flue. Of course it's showing signs of weakness, (cracks, voids against flue). I looked at a previous post and read that a cap stone should have been installed. My question is: given that I have been around the tile trade for a long time and have some common sense, and I understand that the cap stones are poured in place, can I do this myself or is a disaster waiting to happen? The previous post had excellent description of what it's supposed to look like, but seeing is easier than doing,
Thank you, Happy Easter.

NJ Brickie

In my experience if there is settlement in a footing the block or brick crack in a straight line. Through the unit itself. With out looking at the issue it is hard to tell. Is the house old? Is it a new crack? If it an old crack has it gotten any bigger over time? In residential work, atleast around here, you will find little to no expansion joints. If the cause is expansion you could cut in an expansion joint and tuck point the cracks. I would go in from the corner about 2' with the expansion joint. For aesthetic reasons cut the joint so that every other course you cut out the head joint and the opposite course you will be making 2 halves out of the one brick. Do not go in too far from the corner because: 1) this is the problem area 2) it is more likely that the head joints will be plumb closer to the corner. The joint should be about 3/8" wide. Then caulk with a masonry caulk that closely matches your brick, not the mortar (common mistake). I would one to one side of the corner first ( least visible side) and see if that fixes your problem. If you do both sides of the corner and there are no ties in the veneer behind the corner it will be free standing. Post a pic if you can and you might be able to get some more insight.