I have a neat little fireplace job right now where I have to rip down some horrendous stone veneer and rebuild the raised hearth. I am building the hearth top with a hand pressed concrete top. I am doing this because the immediate area is completely lacking a good stone source. There is a small supply yard that has some stone (I got my veneer stone there)but no large flat stock. The pressed technique is a nice alternative for now...but I was wondering if anyone else crosses over into doing this kind of work. Also, I am going to seal the concrete and was curious what products you use or can recommend that are specific to GFRC concrete.
They left the final decision to me. I think a little contrast to the stone will look nice...I guess ill hear about it if nobody else thinks so:laughing:.
These are going to be the last picture of the hearth until you see it the final install...that will probably be in another thread about the fireplace.
Thanks for all the feedback and it was really great to hear about different ideas,suggestions and see other work (Dave, Miss Brown).
So, I polished starting with 100 grit to get the slurry off and progressed all the way to 3500...then buff.
You can see some shine in the picture, it has been wet down to show the color(no standing water on the piece.) This is what I want...I guess you would can call it satin, just a bit more than matte.
Anyway, tonights pics..mostly shots of the veining and edges. Thanks again e1.
Yep, what he said. I can't find it this second, but I'll see if I can dig up my recipe and send it off to you. Good work Sir. I betcha want to keep it.
It's in Off topic, tons of Fundi :thumbsup:...I'm happy about the feedback and interest in this technique...IMO it will really enhance a business and create new opportunities for work by learning to do this.
Maybe I can get Lukachuki up here to help me with my next project! He probably wont until I get my pizza oven finished.:laughing:
My ears were tingling so I decided to log on and find out why.
I'm ready and waiting for the word! My overnight bag is packed, my glass eye is washed, my peg leg is termite treated, and my false teeth are secured with a dab of pine tar and kindred oil, so lets git er done.
Quick question. What do you think the minimum PSI would need to be for this application? I don't have an edging tool so i would probably just rub them. Would a typical 1 part type10 portland: 2 parts sand be strong enough? (with a heavy dose of liquitex of course) I think it would come out to about 2500psi if I'm not mistaken.
Would a typical 1 part type10 portland: 2 parts sand be strong enough? (with a heavy dose of liquitex of course) I think it would come out to about 2500psi if I'm not mistaken.
Liquitex is probably not the proper name, I don't use acrylic additive very often, haven't touched it in years in fact. When I'm at the supplier I ask for milk and they know what I mean.
So 4000psi, that's pretty strong. I'll take a look at the link you gave me. I still haven't got a hold of my friend that was doing countertops. I know he did his own mixes but he also did a fairly liquid mix. You are right that the less water you add, so long as you add enough, the stronger the mix and the less shrinking and cracking.
Welcome...remember, you can get nylon fiber and add it to your mix insted of using mesh. The bagged mix I used has it added already. Dont do both because it will be difficult to work the concrete into the grid with the fiber in the 'crete:thumbsup:
I'll be sealing the hearth soon and I haven't picked a specific brand yet. I definitely want a stain finish not a shine.
Dave(or anyone) have you ever used or heard anything about Buddy Rhodes Satin Finish Sealers? It looks user friendly and it seems(based on the uses list) like I could use it on the fireplace which is a type of sandstone...The amount of choices out there is staggering....
I haven't used any of BR products myself. But I do hang out on a concrete counter top forum sometimes and they are well known there. Highly respected and considered user friendly seems to be the collective opinion.
One of the few times I did any real concrete work was to form some steps which had stone walls on the side. I ordered it with fibreglass or whatever so I didn't have to use any steel in it. When I went to try and finish the concrete the fibre kept coming up.
The PVA fibers can be taken off by going over the surface with Emory paper.
And in order to avoid having to special order anything from BR I really recommend "tile guard natural stone premium sealer" (Home Despot) I was just in that house with the giant white countertop, and I spilled some dirty mineral spirits on it...and it came right up. And then my guy spilled coffee on it...no problem....I was thankful and amazed....
And in order to avoid having to special order anything from BR I really recommend "tile guard natural stone premium sealer" (Home Despot) I was just in that house with the giant white countertop, and I spilled some dirty mineral spirits on it...and it came right up. And then my guy spilled coffee on it...no problem....I was thankful and amazed....
Really... Whats the finish like? or do they have a couple different options? I will take your experience as a good testimonial. Since this is a hearth and not a counter, I dont need the greatest sealer out there just something to enhance and protect.
The one I use is completely invisible. No sheen, at all. I'm sure there are other ones, I haven't used them. Will not change it a bit. There's a problem with sealers and the pressed method, which is, the portland no sand takes sealer differently than the portland with sand, resulting in an uneven sheen. Which is why I stay away from sheening it at all.
Another option is go ahead with buddy's system as his acrylic will give you some sheen.
To clarify, you cannot omit metal reinforcement without a highly engineered mix regardless of your fiber. GFRC and other fiber based mixes make up for the lack of metal in other ways.
The PVA's your talking about work great but you'd have to really dial in your mix to get the proper loading.
This is a pic from a bunch of slabs I did that required a hybrid of wetcast face coat with a gfrc geared back coat mix for strength and flexibility.
To clarify, you cannot omit metal reinforcement without a highly engineered mix regardless of your fiber. GFRC and other fiber based mixes make up for the lack of metal in other ways.
The PVA's your talking about work great but you'd have to really dial in your mix to get the proper loading.
The mix I used IS highly engineered. They worked on it for 9 years (with a chemical engineer on the team) before going to market. I guess time will tell but I saw a lot of the product before I actually purchased it and everything looked good.
Nice piece BTW.:thumbsup:
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