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08-13-2009, 11:10 PM
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#61
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Yard Boi
Trade:
Landscaping
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Genesee, ID
Posts: 440
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That is undeniably cool.
__________________
Bob's Lawn & Landscape
When You Want The Best
Serving the LC Valley & Moscow-Pullman
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08-14-2009, 12:25 PM
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#62
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Propheshunal
Trade:
Customer Education & Development
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Aiken SC
Posts: 682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole82
They were making a sharp left hand turn and the dollie didn't want to turn with the rest of them. They adjusted hydro pressure and some come-a-longs and it settled back down. In case you guys were wondering the tires are solid filled with something, he didn't say with what though.
A few specs
8 miles
17 lines
144 wheels
400 tons
2 broke dollies
2 bent I beams
countless mail boxes and road signs
1 gravel road widened
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They must really love that house to go through the aggravation and expense to move it. An amazing project.
__________________
Tim
Build a man a fire and he'll be warm for the night. Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life. - Terry Prachett
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08-30-2009, 09:12 PM
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#63
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Contractor
Trade:
Excavation, Foundation, Concrete
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,023
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Any new pics of this move?
Don't leave us hanging like this!
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09-02-2009, 09:48 PM
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#64
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........
Trade:
Construction, siding, windows & doors
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 316
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Yeah sorry I have been working like mad. I have been taking pics just need to up load them. We have had a ton of delays and head scratching moments. I am digging the footings tomarrow, with the house above on cribing. Had to rent a very mini ex as ours was to big and didn't fit under the huse beams. Also did a quick walk through of all the wood work that is ahead of me. Lots of plaster patches as well.
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09-06-2009, 07:40 AM
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#65
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........
Trade:
Construction, siding, windows & doors
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 316
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09-06-2009, 07:45 AM
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#66
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Chief outhouse engineer
Trade:
mason
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 365
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Cole,
Your getting your bones on this one, if you can get that thing settled you will have one heck of a reputation.
Keep the pics coming. I assume you finally found an ICF man to build the walls.
__________________
D K & Sons
The maintenance schedule for brick
1. Stand back and say "man that looks nice!" 
2. Repeat as often as needed.
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09-06-2009, 07:57 AM
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#67
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........
Trade:
Construction, siding, windows & doors
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 316
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Looking north out of the house towards the road. The white tube are the grape vines they planted this spring around 5,000 of them.
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09-06-2009, 08:05 AM
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#68
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........
Trade:
Construction, siding, windows & doors
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakzaag
Cole,
Your getting your bones on this one, if you can get that thing settled you will have one heck of a reputation.
Keep the pics coming. I assume you finally found an ICF man to build the walls.
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Yeah ME! 
I went and took some classes that the manufacturer has. Also drove to another site 2 hours away and watched/helped another contractor for free. Did hire a couple guys that have done icf before but they are workers and turn to me for advice. Also we changed the design a little. The ICF wall will be 10' and the last 4'rough face block.
Since I am doing this project and am not subing it out. All my other smaller jobs I had to had over to another biz. (father) He is semi retired and is reluctently helping me.
The rep has allready started and have only have been on my own a year.(july08)
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09-06-2009, 08:41 AM
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#69
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Chief outhouse engineer
Trade:
mason
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 365
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Sounds great, I like the split faced block above grade. Digging those footers next to the cribbing looks like a real trip. I could see those trenches wanting to cave in or smacking them with that mini.
__________________
D K & Sons
The maintenance schedule for brick
1. Stand back and say "man that looks nice!" 
2. Repeat as often as needed.
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09-09-2009, 07:47 PM
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#70
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........
Trade:
Construction, siding, windows & doors
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 316
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All the house footings are dug!
Will be setting formadrain tomarrow and digging a couple waste water lines.
The pump truck is on call for friday.
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09-09-2009, 07:50 PM
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#71
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Pro
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Hennessey, Oklahoma
Posts: 4,570
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What is the footing size?
__________________
Ladwig Construction Hennessey, Oklahoma 405 853 1563
Ladwig Insulation & Construction Services Serving Oklahoma Statewide 405 314 5802
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09-09-2009, 08:07 PM
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#72
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Contractor
Trade:
Excavation, Foundation, Concrete
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,023
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Nice clean dig. I hope it does not rain....
When you first posted, I thought the foundation would be put in first and the building placed upon it.
How will you get concrete into the top of the ICF's? Or will you do the foundation and the movers lower the structure?
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09-09-2009, 08:41 PM
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#73
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........
Trade:
Construction, siding, windows & doors
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 316
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Size is 18" deep x 36" wide.
The ICF will be 10' high then block up to the house. Pull the beams out then fill in the holes where the beams were. Thanks on the dig I haven't been on a ex in about 2 years.
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09-09-2009, 09:55 PM
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#74
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Member
Trade:
Masonry
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Nantucket MA
Posts: 42
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Nice nice
Dynamite project.....one question though....I've done about 25 of these, albeit never with a full masonry building....why weren't the footings formed? There is a ****load of weight up there, and I have seen cribbing go on one job....the whole house had to be destroyed, although no one was seriously injured. Makes the perimeter drain easier to install as well. Just wonderin' This is a great project however. Real feather in your cap....
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09-09-2009, 11:22 PM
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#75
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Propheshunal
Trade:
Customer Education & Development
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Aiken SC
Posts: 682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole82
Size is 18" deep x 36" wide.
The ICF will be 10' high then block up to the house. Pull the beams out then fill in the holes where the beams were. Thanks on the dig I haven't been on a ex in about 2 years.
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thanks cole for keeping us up to date....those footings look way smaller in the pictures for some reason....but just shows how deceiving a pic can be.
__________________
Tim
Build a man a fire and he'll be warm for the night. Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life. - Terry Prachett
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09-10-2009, 10:05 PM
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#76
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........
Trade:
Construction, siding, windows & doors
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockmonster
Dynamite project.....one question though....I've done about 25 of these, albeit never with a full masonry building....why weren't the footings formed? There is a ****load of weight up there, and I have seen cribbing go on one job....the whole house had to be destroyed, although no one was seriously injured. Makes the perimeter drain easier to install as well. Just wonderin' This is a great project however. Real feather in your cap....
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By formed do you mean above grade? If so the county specified that the footing had to be under the grade of the hole. If that isn't what you mean. My other awnser is we are using form a drain. It is the form and drain all in one. The footings are dug not formed in those pics.
We had another revision today, so today was a loss and will try and pour monday.
Last edited by Cole82; 09-10-2009 at 10:07 PM.
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09-10-2009, 10:23 PM
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#77
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Member
Trade:
Masonry
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Nantucket MA
Posts: 42
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No...by formed I mean formed footings.....we usually have it excavated to the bottom of the footings, form them with 2x12 or 2x10. Goes very quickly. Only thing is then you have to fill inside the footings up to t.o.f. after all the cribbing is out. It is all sand here however....
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09-11-2009, 06:02 PM
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#78
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........
Trade:
Construction, siding, windows & doors
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockmonster
No...by formed I mean formed footings.....we usually have it excavated to the bottom of the footings, form them with 2x12 or 2x10. Goes very quickly. Only thing is then you have to fill inside the footings up to t.o.f. after all the cribbing is out. It is all sand here however....
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Yeah that is what I was trying to say in the first sentence. The county wouldn't let us with this project, but that is how we usually do it too.
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09-11-2009, 09:45 PM
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#79
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Chief outhouse engineer
Trade:
mason
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 365
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I have a question about the formed footers. Not to hijack the thread, but more likely to keep it moving as we wait for updates.
What is the advatage of formed footers? I normally don't pour footers, just lay block on them and I have one customer who always forms his, and everyone else pours them in trenches. (usually hand dug, because it is easier to hand dig accurately than trying to get a mini or whatever in the hole and dig)
I prefer the trenches as the bottom of the building hole is about level with the top of the footer and easier to lay block on instead of constantly stepping up or reaching out to set the block.
Typically the formed footers are more accurate for elavation, but usually the trenches are marked with some type of elevation marker so really not much of a deal.
Just curious to know the pros and cons as I am starting to get more requests for footers to be included in my foudation bids.
__________________
D K & Sons
The maintenance schedule for brick
1. Stand back and say "man that looks nice!" 
2. Repeat as often as needed.
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09-12-2009, 07:56 AM
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#80
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Member
Trade:
Masonry
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Nantucket MA
Posts: 42
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Yeah dak, you're right about the stepping up and reaching part....that's why I always try to have it backfilled (the inside) prior to laying the block. But here's why it works for me; Advantages 1) Far faster to prep... our foundations are generally 160-240 running feet, so form and steel take maybe 6 manhours as opposed to, say 15 or so to dig. (that is with shovels, not a mini ex) 2)Perimeter drains-much easier to put in (Common to have interior and exterior runs here) 3)For parging or waterproofing, there is less time involved cleaning the block/footing junction (excavators don't give us much room, so cave-ins or heavy rain can be a problem....4)Allows the space inside for gravel backfill, so capillary action is a non-issue. Disadvantages 1) the stepping up part if not backfilled, and 2) the lumber.....hauling it, storing it, replacing it......really not a lot of negatives. Plus, when you do your own footings dak, you can get them RIGHT!! I realize some jobs the mason doesn't do the footings, but I prefer to do my own....
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