Masonry Sign On Old Footer

fakie99

I will be building a sign for a subdivision and would like some feedback. We'll be replacing an exisgin sign, bcuase it doesn't fit the deisgn style, and we'll be using the existing footer for the new sign.)

Question is, once demo of old sign is done, I expect to have some irregularity in the surface of the footer on which we'll be laying up the new block. Can this generally be handled with a surface coat of mortar to smooth things out, provided the irregularities are made as small as possible during demo? I was also planning on rebar connection from old footer to new block.

Thanks.

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Brickie

Judging by the question, I take it you haven't done this type of work before??? Are you subbing this out??

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fakie99

other than the standard "you're not experienced enough to do this/you're an unlicensed loser" responses that have become so prevalent on this site, can anyone add any constructive feedback to this question?

thx.

Tscarborough

It is pretty simple, and had you done it before, you would know the answer. The mud bed for the first course is all you need, so long as the slab is within an inch or 2 plus or minus. Just be sure you check level and allow for the high point.

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bwalley

How big is the existing footer?

How much steel reinforcement if any is in it?

What size bars and how many do you plan on putting in the new wall?

Are you using knockout blocks on the top course and using steel in it and pouring it?

Brickie

My reply to you was constructive feedback. Your inexperience in masonry design & construction is so glaringly obvious. Some projects are best left to the true pros, not wannabees

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dakzaag

Try not to let those guys frustrate you, they just like to mess with new guys.

It is absolutly critical that the base is as close to level as possible. This may require grinding off the high spots and skim patching the low spots. A diamond cup blade will work well for this. They are a little spendy, but will make up for the cost in time savings.

If you start out level, all will be good. If you are the slightest bit unlevel, you will fight it all the way up. If you want to go the extra mile you could add a bonding agent to the footer. Be sure to coat the first course of block as well as any rebar you add.

For the skim patch, I would use 5000 psi mix from quickcrete and an epoxy admixture. You should be able to find the epoxy at your local masonry supply. I have used epoxy from the home depot before, but it was messy and hard to estimate the amount needed.

Good luck with your project and post pictures so we can check it out.

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fakie99

good suggestions - thanks so much for the feedback guys. best of luck to all for a prosperous season!

lukachuki

funny stuff!

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NJ Brickie

Man this is really making a mountain out of a mole hill.

Captainsls

This^

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lukachuki

I think he was joking! Or at least I hope so! Its sometimes hard to tell on these here internets.

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NJ Brickie

I figured as much, just adding to the humor (unsucessfully I guess). I was impressed with the extent dakzaag went to. haha

stacker

i got a kick out of bwally's reply.
what does any of the questions he asked have to do with what fakelayer asked in his post?
i mean,how the hell would he know how much steel is in the original footing unless he poured it.and what does using a bondbeam on the top row have to do with it?

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bwalley

If you have no idea how much steel if any is in the footer, why would you even consider building on it?

There are ways to find out if there is steel in the footer, without using destructive testing methods.

If you don't build it properly it will fail, I would think a guy who borrows someones license would know that.

dakzaag

Since he wasnt inclined to listen to the some of the best advice this masonry section has to offer, I decided to tell him what he wanted to hear.

I hope he can find the epoxy all right

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D K & Sons
The maintenance schedule for brick
1. Stand back and say "man that looks nice!"
2. Repeat as often as needed.

jomama

There are ways to find out if there is steel in the footer, without using destructive testing methods.

If you don't build it properly it will fail, I would think a guy who borrows someones license would know that.[/quote]

I'd be interested to know how to efficiently check for the amount & size of re-enforcement in that footing without tearing it out.

I would put a masonry sign on a footing like that if it's already proven itself for ? years.

Just quickly estimating the masonry, maybe 4000#'s?, on a 30 sq. foot footing? equals about 135 psf or 1 psi. Maybe my math is off?

bwalley

We have had to hire engineers to check an existing slab to see if there was enough steel in the footer for a screen room, they use some sort of metal detector to determine the amount of steel in the footer.

The existing footer may have supported the old sign, adding more weight to it, or making it taller, it may not support it.

I am not fan of SOP engineering.

Tscarborough

It is an entry sign, not a daycare center. The slab obviously held the previous sign, the only concern is to tie the new sign to the old slab by stubbing in rebar.

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lukachuki

I thought this was a sign, didn't realize all of the horrible implications if that thing would settle or start leaning in 25 years.

Uncommon sense should suffice I would think. Is it big? Is it strong? Will it hold a few block etc.

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