Low (12" Or So) Brick Garden Wall Questions

bindersbee

I hope I can get a little input here from those with more specific expertise. I am actually a Landscape Designer (recent Landscape Architecture graduate but I haven't taken the professional licensing exams yet). This means I have a lot of 'book knowledge' about how to design this project but book knowledge is no match for real world experience- which is why I am asking.

A landscape client of mine would like to have a low brick wall edging the flower beds around the house with a 2' wide brick pathway in front of it. We are in the SLC, Utah area so freeze/thaw is a concern. I can some up with a couple ways to design the wall but I don't want to 'overdesign' or 'underdesign' it.

She wants this wall after seeing one that a neighbor did DIY (this is the part where you all cringe). That little wall is just a concrete footing (I hesitate to call it that as it is only 6" deep) then 2 rows of house brick with a paver brick on top. I think the sample wall she had me look at is under-engineered as evidenced by the spaulding of the bricks on the bottom course due to water seepage and I think there's been some frost heave in a few places. There should not be too much weight on this wall as it is more decorative than retaining but I'd like it to be able to withstand some pressure- if they add too much soil after the fact I don't want to have a problem. My biggest concern is water getting to the back of the bricks.

Would it be better to do a poured concrete wall then face it with 1/2 veneer bricks and put a paver course on top? Or, should the facing brick still be the standard 2 1/2 inch deep residential brick? I assume that given our climate that even a small wall like this should have a footing below the frost line? Any tips on how I should design it so it won't be overkill or underkill?

bindersbee

I should add- the wall will be built by a professional- I just don't want to sound like an idiot when I talk to the guy or have him cussing that 'blankety blank' designer who has no idea how this stuff is really done.

Tscarborough

My suggestion would be to use segemental wall units. The footing is simpler, they look good and the wall can be moved in the future if needed.

bindersbee

I have looked into that option. The Versalok solid units with the tumbled finish and mosaic pattern are an option as the finished product looks more natural than most. I love how easy segmental block walls are but other than the above, I don't care for how they look in a residential setting. They are fine for commercial projects but in the home landscape, in my opinion, it is the same as building a house out of concrete block instead of brick. It looks fine for a commercial building but not great on a house. Hopefully there will soon be more natural-looking options in these walls at which time I will gladly change my opinion. Ok- that might be a contraversial opinion so feel free to throw concrete blocks at me!

Tscarborough

I would like to help you out but have no experience with freeze/thaw. Looking through my books, it appears that you will have to pour a footer below the frost line which will be bigger than the wall itself, as well as more expensive than the actual masonry.

In that type of situation, I would determine the willingness of the customer to pay for the expense. If they are willing, then pour the footing below frost line and lay a double wythe brick wall capped by a solid cap. I would recommend a Flemish bond to tie the wythes together and provided the wall is not curvaceous, would make the cap units the maximum length possible. I would also flash under the cap with continuous metal flashing. Don't forget the weeps and it wouldn't hurt to fill the cavity with gravel.

If they can't afford to do it the right way, I would do only the segmental wall or walk away.

denick

Tscar's recommendation is the basis of a good wall for what you are asking about. If you are going to use a professional you should find your candidate and let him tell you what he recommends using that as a guide.

This type of brick wall is only a problem in the making. As an example you suggest the wall will be capped with paving brick. With a good over hang to shed water you only have 7" for the thickness of the wall. There are many little details that need to be addressed to make it a durable wall.


Nick

ilbrickmason

i agree with Tscarborough on this one

bindersbee

Thanks for the input. I will discuss it with both the homeowners and the masons we have bid (if we get to that point). I mostly just didn't want to sound like an idiot when I talk to the guy. Thanks for the suggestions.

tkle

Some jobs you got to turn down.I get calls for retaining walls where the homeowner wants or thinks they can get by cheap.It costs money to do it right.In this case I would use block from the frostline up to grade with brick from there up.Waterproof everything that will come in contact with earth and use a sealer on the rest.Use a weather joint if neccessary.There's a lot of good masons in your area,worked with quite a few doing LDS churches.Pete Neff is a name that comes to mind.Good mason.