roo

Just got a job coming up what do most people charge for doing lime putty repointing...there is approximately 160m2.

lukachuki

real tough question to answer....we don't do alot of that type of thing but be safe and just do time and materials. Its the fairest thing for both parties if you have no idea what to bid on it. You won't kill the customer and the customer won't kill you. Next job you get off of it then you can give an estimate.

Be forwarned that T&M has its own pitfalls as well. The customer will watch you like a hawk watching a rabbit and you will have to account for every move as well as not get paid for the behind the scenes stuff so figure that into your hourly rate.

__________________
Tim

Build a man a fire and he'll be warm for the night. Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life. - Terry Prachett

Driftwood

Another way to approach this is. suggest doing a few hundred sq. ft ., time and material. At that point You have a good take on the pricing. Leaves the door open for both. Also it sets the standard of workmanship for the rest of the project , no surprises Cheers

lukachuki

Also exactly what do you mean by "lime putty? Some lime mixes require special attention as they don't hydraulically set and if done wrong will end in disaster.

__________________
Tim

Build a man a fire and he'll be warm for the night. Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life. - Terry Prachett

roo

what i mean is mixing sand with mature lime putty at a 3:1 mix leaving it for about a week and using to repoint a house.

Tscarborough

Roo, if you mix mature lime putty with sand at 1:3 and leave it for a week, carbonation will be well under way (it won't work). The proper method is to take Type S dry lime, submerge it in water for at least 3 days(that means gently cover it with water and do not ever, ever stir it), keeping it covered with water at all times (that will create mature lime putty). After that, it will last for months, so long as it is kept covered with water and left alone. Only add sand and expose it to air when you are ready to use it, and only enough for the days usage.

Other than that difference in prep, it is the same as doing any other tuckpointing, and may be priced accordingly (although you might also want to make allowances for misting/shading on the South side of the job in summer.

Tscarborough

Also, unless you are matching an existing historical lime mortar, it doesn't hurt to gauge the mortar with portland cement (only because it is available) to assist with an inital set that allows for easier cleaning and tooling. The ratio is debatable, and will have to be determined on-site, but could range from 1:1:6 to 1:10:5 (cement/lime/sand).

If you are in the UK, disregard everything I have said in both posts and use a premix.