Large Slab In Pole Barn

tomscarpt

We just picked up a large job building a pole barn 60'x 100' I have no problem with the building end of it.But the homeowner wants to have a concrete floor poured in the entire barn.Since we have a bobcat we are going to spread the stone and lay out the vapor barrier.Thats were we stop need a idea what a slab will run.I figured around 76 yards.Never got involved with large pours so the cost will be different.The owner wants me to take care of it.
We have done alot of work for them and there friends so it's worth it to me to go the extra mile on this one.The job is in nj.The last time for us was a few years back when we did a addition but it was just alot of sidewalks and really cannot compare the price's to this one.

lukachuki

Not knowing the whole story or all of the variables. I would charge them between 3.00 and 3.50 per sq. ft. here in sc

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Less with the jaw more with the paw!

lukachuki

Not knowing the whole story or all of the variables. I would charge them between 3.00 and 3.50 per sq. ft.

80yds about 110/ yd here.
keyway
4" thick
3000 psi
fiber
stone
vapor barrier
forms
etc.
labor

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"The problem with internet quotes is, you never know if they are authentic." -Abraham Lincoln-

Less with the jaw more with the paw!

tomscarpt

The bottom board around the base for the pole barn is the outside form for the concrete.Really would just need to pour and finish everything else would be done before hand.Unless since its so big additional forms are needed.To divide the concrete into sections.

Stewy

maybe get yourself a concrete placer/finisher sub

tgeb

What will the barn be used for?

If the owner will be running any machinery through it or using it to store equipment you might want to increase the thickness of the slab. depending on the use I go at least 5" maybe 6" and a higher psi mix, at least 3,500 maybe 4,000.

Even though we do quite a bit of concrete, I would get additional help on something this big, and still do it a section at a time. Breaking it into 3 or 4 pours would not be so bad.

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Tom

www.gebcon.com

stacker

i pay 5.00 a sq ft for slabs work here.

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macatawacab

Here's the condition of West Michigan = 4" slab $2.50 all day long.

I agree with making it thicker for the equipment use. What are you doing about drainage?

lukachuki

I'm a homerun hitter and swing for the fences on most of my bids. So I stay somewhere in the 3.00 to 3.50 range

5" slab with higher psi would be wise as well...and if it were mine i'd throw in some rebar at least on the edges.

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"The problem with internet quotes is, you never know if they are authentic." -Abraham Lincoln-

Less with the jaw more with the paw!

lukachuki

We would divide it into manageable sections using metal keyway which help in the screeding. This allows for expansion and contraction while keeping the slabs locked together.

something like this.

__________________
"The problem with internet quotes is, you never know if they are authentic." -Abraham Lincoln-

Less with the jaw more with the paw!

SK Builders

Definetly sub it out...do you have the capabilities to finish it? That is why it is best to get a pro on that, they know how/when that concrete is going to pop and how to stay on top of it. If you don't, you will have an uuuugly slab you are stuck with...jmo

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rustyjames

Big difference between doing sidewalks and large floor slabs. Make sure you have people around that know what they're doing with concrete

jomama

It sounds like the OP is only prepping the slab himself, I think? I would definately call a concrete sub, tell them what you want for thickness, re-inforcement, finish, & size, & they should be able to quote you over the phone. If you have it prepped correctly, there shouldn't be too many variables or reasons for a sub to HAVE to look at it in person.

tomscarpt

He is going to use it for his cars.He collects old 60' s era and the heavy item would be a 24' boat .Mostly for general storage due to the size were going with a pole barn due to cost.Since I have my bobcat there we will spread the stone but thats all i am going to do since were not mason's.

I would agree to a few pours,5" slab, keystone to help sceeding if this was mine i would include them .Rebar is it really needed ? Since this is a great customer we want to make sure the floor is going to last be level and look good.
With the price is concrete included or is this a finish off price? (labor)
Lumber,truss,and steel roof and sides come to about 28k cement looks to be 18k.Personaly for this size building it sounds pretty cheap to me. We have built decks in this price range.

rustyjames

As long as the base is proper, a 5-6" 3500+ mix with WWF should be fine, no need for rebar. I would put down a vapor barrier.

cleveman

I would pour 4 15' wide pours and dowel them together with a 1/2" rebar every 2' through the 2x form. Pour #3 in the morning, or one day, then #1, then strip forms the next day or whatever and pour #2 and #4. One and four will be tougher because you can only get at them from one side.

I would use a good compacted base, vapor barrier as suggested, and a 1'x1' perimeter with #5 rebar in it. No rebar in the field, but fiber. Cut every 10 feet or so and cure with plastic on top.

tgeb

Since you stated that he will be using the building to house classic cars, have you considered making on area a wash bay, with the floor sloped to a drain?

It's nice to be able to wash a vehicle inside. Often that's not thought of till it's too late.

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Tom

www.gebcon.com

KB construction

I would also suggest putting a expansion joint between the poles and the concrete. And one along the bottom 2x6 outside form so if the frost grabs the concrete "if not heated" you wont lift your poles out of the ground.Once that happens dirt get under them and even when the frost goes out your pole will never go back into place.