How To Fix Overhang Problem

Nailbird

Hey folks,

Need a hand with an irksome problem. I'm building a custom house and my foundation guy missed in a couple of spots. The framing crew built to the drawing and as a result the exterior wall overhangs the block. The overhang varies from nil to about an inch. I want to install veneer stone (from Cultured Stone) and have to make up for this error somehow. The stone work is attached to the foundation wall and carries over to the framed wall up about 4 feet. Does anyone have an ideas on how to add material to the block to match approach flush with the framed wall? I thought of shooting concrete board to the block and then adding mortar to provide a flush surface - what do you guys think?



Cheers
Nailbird

tkle

I'm gritting my teeth and closing my eyes cause this goes against everything I believe in.At the chance of losing the respect of everybody on this board,sure why not.Put some thinset on the back and make sure and put the rough side out.Bring your lath all the way down,over the board and scratch coat over the whole mess.

Glasshousebltr

Not me....Not a chance.....I think the rocks going to increase your problems. I'd anchor some extra mesh in the short areas and build out with the best damn bonding mortar I could find and I'd do it in a single application.

But that's just my 2 cents.

Bob

Bob

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Bob

reveivl

If you're getting a mason to do the veneer I'd let him make the decision and do the work, that way he takes responsibility for it and he will do it the way he deems best. If you're doing the veneer then like tkle I'd hold my nose and do what you suggest with the cbu.

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Tscarborough

I would just carry the lath down the wall and furr it out in the trouble spots. I would assume that you want it all plumb, so there should be no issues, just do not joint the lath at that point in the wall.

tkle

Building up an inch of mud,especially in one application would be difficult and tend to sag and crack.Furing your lath out would work and possibly be cheaper but would end up with a void if not solidly mudded at the bottom.I'm not sure what you'd fur it out with either.Wood would tend to dry rot.Perhaps strips of the cement board?If you're using chicken wire type lath you'll need paper backing with wire strung behind it.I guess it would depend on how big an area it was.Cement board is expensive.Myself I would stay with the solid cb backing using thinset applied to both surfaces or a thinset mortar mix if you need to build it out a bit.

Nailbird

First, you guys are terrific - thanks for helping with this since it's a real pain to deal with.

"Glasshousebltr" - can you elaborate on why you think the rock would make things worse; I fear you might be right.

Furring out the wall might work with strips of PT lumber or strips of rockboard and attaching mesh, but I wouldn't want voids between the strips and don't see how to work the mortar in adequately to avoid this.

I like the idea of shooting some layers of extra mesh in the trouble spots and working in something like Versabond to establish a foundation - sounds like an appealing solution.

Any other thoughts are greatly appreciated!
Nailbird

Tscarborough

If you don't want the void, you could fill it with mortar as you scratch coat it (using expanded metal lath, anyway).

tkle

Do a combination of both.Build it out with the cement board then add your furring strips mudding in between the furring.Place your lath over this then scratch coat.The rock shouldn't cause any problems.

denick

Just a couple of questions since I seem to have come along late.

Is all that block work in the picture going to be showing above grade?

If not, how much wil be showing?

What type climate are you in for freezing?

You always intended to stone this the way you are talking about?

__________________
Nick

"Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as I have received and am still receiving" Albert Einstein

Nailbird

None of the block will show above grade. Originally, the plan was to parge exposed block all around the house - three sides of the house are parged this way. During construction I decided to apply a stone short wall along the front of the house - the stone will run about 2 foot up the framed wall and will cover all the block that is exposed (the is a sloped grade so the amount of exposed foundation varies across the face of the house - the grade drops about 3 feet, so the foundation wall goes from invisible to about 3 ft. showing). Behind the block wall is a 4' crawlspace, so whatever I do has to provide waterproofing to keep that pretty dry.

This is in the Annapolis, Maryland area so we do get freezes, and sometimes, unfortunately, floods.

personalt

how far is that overhang. is that mark up top a ~1"

It is hard to see the scale but is there any structual issues here?

it might be overkill if your only short 1" but if bigger you could always bolt an angle iron to the button and get block of thickness to match the overhang.

denick

The section of wall with the problem will have how much block/stone showing above grade and below the framed wall?

Are you coating the block work with something to waterproof it? What?

Will the stone work wrap around the corner of the problem area? to the left in the picture.

How far below finished grade are you going to start your stone?

__________________
Nick

"Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as I have received and am still receiving" Albert Einstein

Nailbird

The walls are 2x8 on 8" CMUs so the overhang doesn't cause a structural problem. The picture shows a 1 inch overhang - most of the problem is around a 1/2" - some more, some less, but an inch is about as bad as it gets. Because the overhang can vary along a wall (in the picture it's 1" at the edge down to 0" at the wall intersection) I can't add block effectively.

The amount of exposed block varies due to a slope on the lot - the largest exposure of stone would have about 4 feet on the block wall and 2 feet on the framed wall. I was going to coat the block with a waterproofing agent but haven't done so yet because I'm still noodling how best to solve this problem. I don't want to add anything to the block that would mess up my chances of getting a solid bonding mortar on there, should I go that route. Hopefully that product would provide waterproofing in its own right.

Yes, the stone work will wrap around the trouble spots - some interior and some exterior corners. I was only going to take the veneer stone just a few inches below grade - the manufacturer cautions against keeping this with wet feet.

Thanks for the on-going support and flow of ideas!

tkle

I've used Thoro-Seal behind phony stone before.There seemed to be no problem with the bond and it's been up a number of years so I don't expect any problems.
A half inch or less,I'd just parge it up.