I have heard that concrete blocks can be dry stacked and surface bonded, producing a masonry wall that is superior to conventional mortar method. I live in Florida on sandy soil. I plan on building a geodesic dome home on a garage/basement (very high ground, good drainage), some of which will be below grade, due to the slope of the land. I want to do most of the work on this project myself. I'm not very proficient at laying mortared block; but I've heard of this alternative. After dry stacking the block to desired height, the walls are coated with a figerglass-reinforced cement coating. My walls will be a little higher than a standard garage/basement, to acheive a 9.5 ft. garage door opening for a boat clearance. Has anyone here used this system, or is familiar with it? Also, I would like to cover the outside of the block walls with about 2" of sheet foam, but have been told that termites like to tunnel in it. Are there foam sheets that are made with borate additive for termite protection? Would this be adhered to the block, and then covered with some sort of stuccco...or maybe even the bonding cement for the blocks? Any help on this matter would very welcome. David
I've pretty much decided that I'm going to use the dry stack method to build my 11.5' concrete basement wall, which will have a 6' backfill (at the most) at one end of my 45' geodesic dome structure. I'm using 12" blocks, and will fill all cells with grout, and place rebar wherever the engineer specifies. I'll use the surface bond to hold the blocks in place, and to water seal the wall. The building department, here in Tarpon Springs, requires that the wall be filled no more than 54" height at a time. At the top, I was thinking about forming up, to pour a bond beam all around the perimeter that will bring me to my required height, and allow me to maintain my correct level plain, as well. This way, I'm thinking, I won't have to be so concerned that each block course is being stacked exactly level with each course...as long as they are not too far off. The bond beam will be formed by the grout that is being used to fill the the cells of the last incremental pour.
Since I don't have an engineer, yet; to you engineers out there, does this sound like it will work?
Have you started construction yet. I live in Ohio and am planning on doing the exact same thing. 60 foot dome that we are getting through Natural Spaces Domes. Planning on a dry stacked basement. Also about the same. 6 foot depth of backfill around half the dome and a three car large garage on the other side. We are not planning on starting the build until late in 06. If you are starting earlier, let me know. I might be interested in coming down to get some experience as well as lend some muscle.
I used ICF's when I built my house. While I like the concept, I don't know if I would use them again. Bugs are definitely a factor that I never considered and the steel in them that is for fastening drywall to is a big hassle. They never quite line up over each other so there is guessing where the "stud" is and then the screws will "stand off" before they grab the metal. I did my mechanical room direct to the blocks but after that I ended up using PT furring strips and drywalling to them. If I had it to do over again I would use Rastra www.rastra.net In fact I plan on using them when I build in Baja. I think they are a much superior block that will accomplish the same thing as the staight foam methods.
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