Concrete Or Masonry Walls In Tight Space

Kevin75

Hi everyone...I could use some help.

We started excavation and poured footers for an addition. The design includes a stairwell so they can have access to their basement from inside. In my estimate I planned for block walls, not realizing they'd need to be parged and coated. (This is the first foundation work we've done.) My reasoning for doing block walls was that there isn't really space to excavate much wider than the footers. I initially figured block walls would work best because they could be layed from inside. The parging and coating presents difficulty because of how tight the excavation is.

A couple of questions:

1) If we pour concrete using SIP forms...does this eliminate the need to do a water-proofing coat from the outside?
2) Are there SIP forms that don't have to be braced from the outside of the wall?
3) How expensive are these things? (SIP forms)


Thanks,

Kevin

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neolitic

How deep?
How tight?
What do guys in your area
who do basement walls say?

Only "for sure" is basement walls
need waterproofing outside.
As well as foundation drainage.

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Kevin75

How deep? - about 6 1/2 feet
How tight - about 8 inches...I'm pretty sure it will be too tight for anyone to squeeze in there to work.

I figured that with the SIP forms there was no way to do any water proofing. Do the forms have some sort of integrated barrier?

Thanks,

Kevin

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neolitic

As far as I know, everything needs some
type of waterproofing.
I've always used 3' over-dig...
consider 2' to be tight!
Some one has to get in there
to do drainage anyway.
Go back and at least "step" the banks.
Unless you've got some W/P and drainage Elves.

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tgeb

Your mason can parge the exterior as he builds the wall by reaching over every couple courses.

Water proofing can be rolled or sprayed on from ground level.

Drainage can be provided by backfilling with crushed stone or gravel.

I don't know what sip forms are but I do know that typical concrete forms need more space than you have there so they can be removed.

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Tom

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Chris Johnson

Tgeb got it, the mason can parge as he goes, or you can do ICF's (Is that what you were thinking of? Not Sips) as the block goes up every course you have peel and stick already cut and roll it up a block at a time. When finished hang a dimple board from the top the same as how you hang curtains. Don't forget the weeping tile, install it prior to starting the blocks, once everything is complete (Walls, Waterproofing) get the gravel in.

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Chris

Driftwood

Why are You limited to 8". You also need schedule 35 perforated pipe and filter fabric. This sounds like a LEAKY BASEMENT that will come back to haunt YOU.

neolitic

Just curious.
I don't get how the membrane
sticks to the wet parging.
Did I miss something?

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Chris Johnson

The membrane sticks to ICF blocks, not parging on CMU's

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neolitic

Ok! I did miss the little jump there
Never used the ICF.
Still the 8" seems tight...
better he than me!

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Chris Johnson

Actually I have done this, work in a major city and you get to build on zero lot lines, this is the only way to do it.

Get the neighbors permission to excavate and let them know you will be encroaching on their property, do this with a bottle of wine and a gift certificate to a nice steak house. So far it's worked every time. Build and pour the wall already waterproofed and when done have the guys backfill with 5 gallon pails!!!

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neolitic

Uh huh, right...
better thee than me.
Yet another reason I am happy not
to do residential in a big city.
BTW, Where are you? In Napa Valley?
Or actual city of Napa?

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Chris Johnson

I'm in the City

Work throughout the valley and it's surrounding areas

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tkle

Parge the blocks before laying them, parging the joints as you go up.

Kevin75

SIP= Stay-in-place forms They don't get removed.

We did use masonry, the mason did parge the exterior just as you described. The waterproofing was sprayed on.

Thanks!

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Proverbs 18:9 "One who is slack in his work is brother to one who destroys."