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Comparing Strategies in Masonry

25K views 166 replies 28 participants last post by  HgWhiz 
#1 ·
I would like to discuss not only different strategies but also problems that have been solved and problems that we would like to solve the world of Masonry.

Since it is not very productive or profitable to analyze which way works best while on the company clock I thought that this is the appropriate place to exchange our ideas and opinions.
 
#3 ·
If you are 5 jacks high in the air and outriggers are too close to your wall (or too far away) make sure the screwlegs on the jacks that are next too the problem jack are snug (BE CAREFUL and make sure the scaffolding is plumb) then loosen the screwlegs on the problem jack so that the jacks that are adjacent to it are supporting it allowing the jack to swing freely back and forth. Position the scaffold feet in the correct position then tighten screwlegs.
 
#11 ·
Speaking of cleaning mort mixers, I'm wondering if any of you run plastic drummed mixers. I'm in the market for a new mixer (to replace little 6 CF), & wondering if they clean alot faster than steel? It seems I could buy another 8 CF mixer in a plastic drum that only weighs what a 6CF steel weighs.
 
#46 ·
I'm in the same boat and have been meaning to pose this question for some time now.
But, since Hg brought back his thread, I thought I would reiterate Jomama's query.
Maybe, they're more in use now, three years later.

I really can't see a poly drum being any easier to clean, unless, of course you're waxing it every other day, like lukachuki does. :rolleyes:
And, God forbid, taking a hammer to it, if it gets away from you. :no:
I've seen some of the poly pans, some of the guys are using, and they don't bode well for the plastics industry in masonry.
I still have a couple of 30+ year old steel pans going strong. Granted they're not exactly square, but, they still hold mud without dripping all over the place.

That's my take on it, but, I have an open mind and may consider its use.
Anyone have any experience with these things.
Pros or cons.

Thanks,
D.
 
#13 ·
My Stone mixer is 5 years old. Still starts on the first pull everytime, and alot of smaller jobs I do I cant get a hose and have to cart buckets of water from the neighbor.

There for I cant keep my mixer as clean as I want, but I have no qualms about beating on it, and have done so any many occasions. Granted I dont take my 5lb stone hammer to it and pound a hole in the side, but theres nothing wrong with givin it some TLC.
 
#24 ·
Well advice I can give as far as technique,if you doing cultured stone and you got ratio 80% small pieces to 20% big,snap chalk line every foot and put all your big pieces up first in different spots...that will help you to break down the whole picture.

If you have to stucco a big area on your own,mix two full batches,dump on big piece of wood and use a cheater...as long as you know what it is...then let someone else go behind you to straighten it out.
 
#25 · (Edited)
I beat my mixer fairly often. If there's nowhere to dump the dirty water I dump it in pails but I have to clean the mixer once it's dried by beating it a bit. I'd rather wreck my mixer (hasn't happened yet and i bought used 7 years ago) than stain someones driveway or front lawn.

One tip I do have for cleaning out a mixer if there's built up mud. dial down an impact wrench and put it on as many bolts as you can. The impact really gets it off well. Someone also has suggested using a scaling hammer but I've never tried and don't really even know what it is.
 
#26 ·
I beat my mixer fairly often. If there's nowhere to dump the dirty water I dump it in pails but I have to clean the mixer once it's dried by beating it a bit. I'd rather wreck my mixer (hasn't happened yet and i bought used 7 years ago) than stain someones driveway or front lawn.
Never stained anyones front lawn or driveway. Dirty water into pales and dump into sewage.End of story...slight banging doesnt do anything...if you leave chunks in mixer and start trying to bash it out like this dumbo I hired did you end up costing money.
 
#29 ·
I've also done as the OP said in the heat of summer. Last batch, clean the mixer with a trowel then give it a few quick bangs before leaving. Lay out some old bags and dump the rest on top, give a few taps while the mixer is running and you're pretty clean. I often use a 2lb mallet for this but I don't give it an almighty blow, a bunch of small hits is much better and because the mallet has more surface area it doesn't dent it or fatigue the metal
 
#32 ·
If I only got dime for every neighbour who would think badly of me...:laughing:

All my hues come from manufacturer that advertises them as 100% natural...

And as far as portland,considering most our sewer goes to either red river that is already a dump or recycling facility I think its all good.

Maybe different in ON.
 
#33 ·
204

I suspect you are unaware of the concerns from concrete cleanouts. Most commercial sites now have a dedicated steel basin for cleanout that must be contained and removed from site. Even dribbles and such are to be picked up.

I sometimes wonder if any one has stopped to consider that concrete comes into contact with the earth in a footer.:eek:

I personally don't practice the cleanout issue, but I avoid the sewer at all costs. A grass lawn takes my clean up water nicely, just don't over saturate the soil.
 
#39 ·
I inherited my mixer when I was hired to clean out an abandoned property, and it came "preseasoned". Only used it ocassionally and never bothered to worry about it until I got into counter tops and it trapped dyes in the cracks that would ruin the next batch.

I cleaned it out with a 2 lb. hammer and a brick chisel. Only took a couple of hours and cleaned up nicely. I was surprised, thought I was F'ed.

Why does mortar require a different type of mixer?

Good Luck
Dave
 
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