Cement Wash Or Concrete Rub A Thin Layer Over Brick Pavers

brownstone89

does anyone know where we can research further to see if we can cement wash or concrete rub a thin layer over bricks to change the look of patio brick pavers?

Will it hold up by the time the temperature is freezing in New York. Is there a primer or some sort of etching to prepare the surface?

Tscarborough

Are they concrete or clay?

__________________
It ain't Rocket Science unless you are building rockets.

CJKarl

All I know is when I see a messy jointing job on brick pavers the extra mortar
seems to stay there for YEARS.

__________________
There's Always A Market For Quality
http://www.kaufmannmasonry.com/

stacker

that is so true.

__________________
life is short,do your masonry naked!!
http://ok.local.yahoo.biz/knabemasonry/index.html

Tommy C

That wouldn't work over a flexible paver assembly. Freeze thaw would pop it. Unless there's some sort of flexible topping system I don't know about?

CJKarl

I don't think he wants to do that. Just basicly paint the bricks with with some thing that's not going to fade or wear off.

__________________
There's Always A Market For Quality
http://www.kaufmannmasonry.com/

Tommy C

Ah. I thought he was referring to a similar thing in the thread I started about concrete resurfacing...like a skim coat of some sort.

brownstone89

from OP
re- cement wash or concrete rub a thin layer to change the look of patio brick pavers-

thanks, those are some good points. They are red/orangeish brick pavers so i assume they are clay or whatever bricks are baked out of rather than cement. They are 4x8 pockmarked finish and butt ugly.

A skim coat would be nice, but its not necessary to hide all the brick lines, they just need an artistic rub, anything that stays down for years even if it colors or fades naturally, they can not get uglier!

Mortar is a very interesting idea since it may be more likely designed to stay on bricks, but we're not sure of a horizontal patio surface for mortar to be walked on and get snow covered on brick pavers.

The brick pavers have been down for decades before the place was purchased, so the ground movement should at least be minimal, But perhaps that freeze thaw flex maybe never goes away. Real flat New York back yard Back then the base used looks like 2 inches of macadam blacktop type material covered by 1 inch of sand all enclosed by a concrete curb retainer - it held up surprisingly well.

Thanks for any more follow up, especially re mortar or pre-treatments to help the adhesion or flex! The results will be interesting since there is always something to be said for trying to re-work or beutify structurally sound improvements.
Peace, Jeff - OP

brownstone89

from OP
re- cement wash or concrete rub a thin layer to change the look of patio brick pavers-

thanks, those are some good points. They are red/orangeish brick pavers so i assume they are clay or whatever bricks are baked out of rather than cement. They are 4x8 pockmarked finish and butt ugly.

A skim coat would be nice, but its not necessary to hide all the brick lines, they just need an artistic rub, anything that stays down for years even if it colors or fades naturally, they can not get uglier!

Mortar is a very interesting idea since it may be more likely designed to stay on bricks, but we're not sure of a horizontal patio surface for mortar to be walked on and get snow covered on brick pavers.

The brick pavers have been down for decades before the place was purchased, so the ground movement should at least be minimal, But perhaps that freeze thaw flex maybe never goes away. Real flat New York back yard Back then the base used looks like 2 inches of macadam blacktop type material covered by 1 inch of sand all enclosed by a concrete curb retainer - it held up surprisingly well.

Thanks for any more follow up, especially re mortar or pre-treatments to help the adhesion or flex! The results will be interesting since there is always something to be said for trying to re-work or beutify structurally sound improvements.
Peace, Jeff - OP

tkle

If the ground is real flat the interlocking pavers might have been used to help with drainage. Mortar might be a problem in those regards.

Tscarborough

You can do a color wash on them, but the durability won't be great. That is, the wear areas will show it within a few years of use.

Portland cement, ferrous oxide pigment, and a very fine aggregate like line field marker (finely ground marble), mixed to a slurry and brush applied . Scrub it into the surface, let harden for a couple of three hours, then broom off excess with water.

__________________
It ain't Rocket Science unless you are building rockets.

tkle

Use the ferrous oxide pigment mixed into a sealer and seal the brick with it.. I use the color mixed with a high quality floor finish on my interior concrete floors.

concretemasonry

If you use a synthetic iron oxide, be reminded that is is very strong, pure (95%) and resist ultra-violet well. Synthetics are available in hundreds of colors ranging from yellows to reds, tans, browns and even some black. Synthetics can be difficult to work with in small amounts because of the high tinting strength. As an example, for manufactured concrete products, the maximum amount permissable is 10%, while practical dosage is 1% to 3% of the cement. Other uses are in paints and plastics.

Natural oxides and pigments are not nearly as strong and contain impurities. Because of the strength they can be easier to work with. In this group are the unbers and similar colors that are "earthier".

I mention this because you should find out what kind of materials you will be dealing with a color wash. Many good masonry material suppliers carry a selection of oxide pigments for use in mortar and they type of materials is easily determined.

__________________
Dick

Engineer, designer and consultant recently active domestically and internationally on construction and design in about 35 countries.

brownstone89

Thanks, we have a source for marble dust nearby, how much marble dust vs. portlandt would be best? also, what is the best pre-treatment to help the adhesion or flex, - should we acid wash or is it just enough to pressure wash the many years of dirty rain and discoloration? We appreciate your help!

Tscarborough

No need to acid wash, just power wash. The ratio will depend upon the look, but no less than 1 part or more than 3 parts by volume of the cement. As with anything, I recommend doing a couple of samples.

__________________
It ain't Rocket Science unless you are building rockets.