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#1 |
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Pro
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Angle Iron To Block
Hope you guys are doing well...haven't posted in a while.
This is a question that I'm sure has a simple answer...however, I've never done this before. Can an angle iron be easily bolted onto a CMU wall? Could I attach the iron in the middle of the blocks, vs in the mortar joint? Any type of special bolts, or standard anchor bolts would work fine? FYI, this is to support a stack of brick to simply fill in a 4" void between 2 rowhouses. There is no footing, so was hoping to use the angle iron method. Thanks!! -Tommy C |
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#2 | |
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Pro
Trade: Constructioneer; LEED AP BD+C
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 573
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Re: Angle Iron To BlockQuote:
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#3 |
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Pro
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
So anchoring into a hollow cell would not be good? This is not going to be holding that much weight...just about 21 half bricks stacked on top of one another.
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#4 |
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Pro
Trade: Constructioneer; LEED AP BD+C
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 573
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
There are "double-cinch" or dual expanding anchors for using on hollow core block that I've used successfully. But without seeing your situation, I don't know if they are what you should use.
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#5 |
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Dave from Macatawa
Trade: GC, cabinet maker and remodeler
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 277
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
how high are you going? Mort joint not the right place for a bolt.
Sleeve anchors (Red Heads or equivalent) works best. Usually need to have grouted cores three courses to mount lintel or angle like you are talking. don't know enough about your situation to adequately answer but as a CM I have done RFI's handling many situations like this. Have a pic? |
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#6 |
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Pro
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
I have a pic, but it's on my other computer, I'll post tonight hopefully.
It's not going high at all...this is a stupid patch job really...just filling in the 4" gap between 2 rowhouses. It goes about 7' high, half bricks stacked on one another should work. It's just to keep the rats out that have been nesting in there. Luckily I'm also doing a stacked stone wall, or else this wouldn't really be worth my time. |
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#7 |
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Pro
Trade: Concrete & masonry
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 488
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
I think the angle with 2- 3/8" or 1/2" anchors are plenty, as the brick seem like they'll wedge them self in place when cured.
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#8 |
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Pro
![]() Trade: Monkey Scratching Cat Herder
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Austin
Posts: 4,769
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
If there is a CMU to bolt TO, why can't you stack on top of them?
__________________
It ain't Rocket Science unless you are building rockets. |
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#9 | |
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Pro
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Re: Angle Iron To BlockQuote:
OK, let me paint the picture. This is in the back small patio area behind an old brick rowhouse. There is a 4" gap between the rowhouse, and a block garage that belongs to the neighbor. Rats have been nesting in there (this is in the City). So the homeowner needs to brick up the gap, just to keep the rats out. In the 4" between the 2 structures, there is no footing there. Just dirt. So the only feasible option that I can fathom is to bolt an angle iron to the block wall, and bridge off of that with my brick. It's not a lot of weight...will really just be about 50 lbs total that's being supported by the angle iron. Sooo...do you think it's OK to bolt into a hollow celled block? |
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#10 |
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Pro
Trade: Constructioneer; LEED AP BD+C
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 573
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
I'd say you'd be fine using the dual expansion type anchors for an application like that. But now you got me thinking of how you're going to attach the bricks to the sides, just mud them to both buildings?
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#11 |
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Pro
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
Exactly. The brick will lock in no problem with head joints.
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#12 |
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Pro
Trade: Bricklayer / contractor
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Stirling, Ontario
Posts: 181
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
Rat poisen?
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#13 |
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Pro
Trade: Constructioneer; LEED AP BD+C
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Central NJ
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
Almost sounds like you can just pound in an 8' piece of 2x treated between the structures and call it a day. Except for getting rid of the rat's.
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#14 |
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Pro
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
For the love of God. The photos I tried to upload FAILED. Too big perhaps? It's always somethin....Anybody knowhow to re-size them??
Last edited by Tommy C; 04-01-2009 at 11:00 PM. |
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#15 | |
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Pro
Trade: Customer Education & Development
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Aiken SC
Posts: 1,335
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Re: Angle Iron To BlockQuote:
for each photo just copy past the link for IMG Code for Forums & Message Boards and paste it into your message and you will be good. If you absolutely can't figure it out or are tired and frustrated just email them to me and i will post em for you this once. :-) lukachuki@gmail.com
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"The problem with internet quotes is, you never know if they are authentic." -Abraham Lincoln- Less with the jaw more with the paw! |
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#17 |
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Pro
Trade: Customer Education & Development
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Aiken SC
Posts: 1,335
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
Hmm i see your problem more clearly now!
After examining the picture closely I would say.....forget the bolts you could just f26 the angle iron to the cmu....
__________________
"The problem with internet quotes is, you never know if they are authentic." -Abraham Lincoln- Less with the jaw more with the paw! |
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#18 |
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Pro
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
LOL - the masonry site pic is on my other computer at home! I just wanted to see if tinypic worked! I'll post the masonry pic tonight
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#19 |
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Pro
Trade: Constructioneer; LEED AP BD+C
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 573
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Re: Angle Iron To Block
If it's your boat, good luck selling it; if it's not, don't buy it, unless you have a lot of money you want to get rid of.
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