Trailer: Customizing ideas needed. Long - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Robie · 12-01-2006, 10:48 PM

I finally am able to upgrade my 6 x 10 cargo trailer to an 8.5 x 16. It will be 8 weeks before it’s here and I want to get a jump-start on customizing the interior. I have gone back through all the archived posts on this site and have come up with a few ideas. I want to build this thing right…one time, the first time, and am looking for any and all ideas for what is needed. I intend to make use of every inch of space, while still allowing me to freely move around. Picking Big Dave’s brain has been useful, as he has recently purchased the same trailer.
I do custom woodworking and handyman type stuff, so there will be a little bit of everything stored in this trailer.
Some of my ideas so far:
20” deep cabinets on both sides, with workbenches on both sides. All doors and drawers will be inset to help alleviate corners that can get in the way. I’m thinking about making the drawer boxes out of different species of wood so customers can see what the different species look like. The faces will be all maple. All will be made with dovetails and have heavy duty full extension slides. I want to get away from all the plastic cases the power tools come in, so each tool will have a specific place in a drawer. The top, shallower drawers will get chisels, marking & measuring devices, etc. On one side, over the bench, will be a backboard to secure holders for screwdrivers, nut drivers, pliers, wrenches, etc.
Like Dave, I want to have room to lay full sheets of plywood on the floor. The cabs will have a 3” high toe-kick, so drawers and doors can be opened if material is on the floor. I’m thinking of screwing down a full sheet of ¾” ply on top of the factory floor and installing 2 T-tracks 20” apart. This will allow me to use a few designs of track hold-downs if I want to secure a pressure washer, lawn mower or keep a stack of plywood in place. They can be removed when not needed and the track will be flush mounted.
I ordered a marine battery with the trailer, which gets charged when the truck is running. It will allow for 12V power if the trailer is remote and un-hooked from the truck. I’m planning on two; 8’ cold start florescent fixtures powered by 110V. I want to design a system so that when I’m plugged in, the battery gets maintained and I have plenty of 110V outlets. I’ll be asking some more questions about that setup further down the road.
There will be a dedicated, insulated box to hold tubes of caulk. It will have a light bulb installed in it to keep from freezing.
I’m thinking about installing a plastic bin of some sort, attached to a dolly to hold opened bags of drywall compound, concrete, etc (anything that gives a puff of dust if you touch it) This will be kept in a separate cabinet with a door.
There will be an on-board 30-gallon compressor, with spring-loaded hose-reel. This is an upright unit, which I’ll probably elevate a little to make it easier to drain.
Separate cabinet with custom hold-downs for brooms, extension poles, sanding poles, etc. These are always in the way.
I’m a coffee freak and will have a coffee maker somewhere. I’m considering a small stainless bar sink with a 5-gallon water supply overhead and wastewater drainage underneath a cabinet. It’s a PITA when there is just no place to wash a brush and it’s too cold to use the garden hose.
I’m thinking about putting 4 aluminum ladder racks on top. Though this has an extended roof height of 7.5 ft., I want to be able to carry a good ladder supply. I’m also thinking of making an 18 ft. long box, 6” high x 12” wide out of MDO. It would be attached to the ladder racks. This would give me a dry place to carry some lumber/moldings, etc., without being under foot.
2 floodlights mounted in the rear, to the ladder racks for those “late-day, time to pack up all your stuff” moments.
Okay, that’s about it so far. I’m looking for a “think tank” here with ideas of what I might be missing. I want to compile a list of pretty much everything that will be inside and start the layout process.
Any and all help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob

DecksEtc · 12-01-2006, 10:57 PM

Robie,

Sounds like you've got a pretty good plan in place. I'm still at the 6' x 10' stage and haven't had the time to get overhead cupboards or power into mine yet - that's my winter project.

Anyway, one suggestion that I would make is to not remove your power tools from their cases. The reason I say this, and this is personal choice, is that I would find it to be a real PITA to have to take my tools back and forth from the trailer to the work site without the cases. With that said, a lot of my work is in people's back yards so no matter how close I get to park my trailer, I'm always carrying my power tools to the work site area.

Again, just my opinion...

scottstef · 12-02-2006, 07:56 AM

do you need workbenches on both sides of the trailer? wouldn't one work area be sufficient and using the other side for more storage be more helpful? i am sure you will fill up the other side.

something else i saw in a woodworking mag- put drawers under your cabinets where the toe kicks are. you then have some more storage in what would otherwise be wasted storage space.

Big Dave · 12-02-2006, 08:54 AM

Reading your idea about the toe kick area gave me the idea to have the raised toe kick but have acces to the space from the back. It will give you a place to store long lengths of lumber or your paint sticks and brooms. I would make access holes along the way in case something slides to the front.

Chris G · 12-02-2006, 09:08 AM

What about a rollout canopy on one side. I know you've got lots of room in there, but it's always nice, (and sometimes necessary) to work outside. You could keep extra stuff dry in the case of a shower, or be able to work out of the direct sun on hot days, (I imagine it will get hot in the trailer too).

Sounds like a great sutup so far though!

Big Dave · 12-02-2006, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris G

What about a rollout canopy on one side. I know you've got lots of room in there, but it's always nice, (and sometimes necessary) to work outside. You could keep extra stuff dry in the case of a shower, or be able to work out of the direct sun on hot days, (I imagine it will get hot in the trailer too).

Sounds like a great sutup so far though!

Yea, I've been wanting a rollout canopy also. I just haven't ponied up the money yet.

Robie · 12-02-2006, 09:35 AM

Yeah, this is what I'm talkin' about! I didn't think of using the area at the toe-kicks. There's my broom/pole/extension storage!
I priced out the canopy for install at the factory. $878 for a 14'. I think it will be on the list as when it's just a fine mist..you're covered and when it's 102* you can pick up your combination square without suffering 1st degree burns.
Thanks! Keep 'em coming.

Chris G · 12-02-2006, 09:47 AM

I don't know how much walking in and out of the trailer you do, but it might be nice to have 3 x 3 foot steel grate with a pan underneath at one of the doorways. If it's muddy, mucky, or snowy outside you just stomp your boots on the grate when you walk in. Or you could grate the whole floor, but that would ugly.

You gonna put a stereo in there?

Big Dave · 12-02-2006, 10:35 AM

I priced a canapy at a local RV store and they had a 15' for between 5 and 6 hundred.

RobertCDF · 12-02-2006, 11:18 AM

Shoot I have a heater on mine that keeps the whole box warm. It is better for your tools if they dont get down to freezing temps all the time. Especially cordless tools and batteries. Of course I plug my trailer in at the customers house and leave it there. So they pay the heating bill on the trailer.

I also put a refrigerator, microwave, toaster oven, and coffee pot in mine. I also have a portable camping grill that I will probably toss in there when the summer rolls back around.

RobertCDF · 12-02-2006, 11:22 AM

I almost forgot LOCKS AND ALARMS! most inportant thing. Do a couple differant locks. As no one lock is safe (even hidden shakle key locks as there is a very simple way to get around those. PM me for details as I dont want to give theives ideas on a public forum) and INSURANCE! Get a wheel boot or 2 for the wheels and get a good tounge lock. I am going to be setting up 2 alarms for redundancy purposes in mine.

Robie · 12-02-2006, 11:52 PM

The security issue hasn't been a concern as yet. I take my trailer home each night and so far my neighborhood isn't too bad.
The stereo is something else I haven't thought of. I don't listen to a radio while working too often but it would be nice to have something small to use while cleaning/packing up, etc.
It would be nice to have ac and heat but that may be down the road. This trailer will come through without a ceiling. I'm planning on adding white fiberglass sheets after I do dome wiring. Do you think it's worth the time and effort to install some insulation while I'm at it? The sun beating down on a hot day on that roof must make the temps go up. Seems to me some styrofoam insulation would help some.
Also looking for a way to store shorts of molding copper pipe, pvc. Any ideas there?

Big Dave · 12-03-2006, 07:11 AM

Definately insulate it. I didn't have mine done when I ordered it and regret it now However with the ceiling in it, it does stay cooler than you would think. ON the hot summer days this year as long as I left the side and back doors open it never got hot at all.

Robie · 12-03-2006, 10:59 AM

Just wondering what the proper setup is to have a compressed air fitting on the outside of the trailer. Can anyone explain or direct me?
Thanks.

Chris G · 12-03-2006, 12:04 PM

Don't know if you'll be doing any finishing in there, (poly and stuff), but a roof vent with a fan might help in the winter when you don't feel like having the door open. Might help cool it in the summer too.

Are there clear panels on the roof to let light in? Hmmm...you're putting in a ceiling though...If I were my trailer, I would love to have natural light in there. Structurally, I don't know how much those roofs can hold.. But maybe a couple of solid glass sunroofs wold be nice. Aw what the hell, get some big ass electrical retractable ones.

Plus, a disco ball would be nice, maybe down the road...

**Teetorbilt** · 12-03-2006, 12:28 PM

There is a guy here that does Teak decking. He put a small door in the front of the trailer with a roller the same height as his tablesaw. He feeds from the rear and the board can pass through the front.

Mike Finley · 12-03-2006, 09:12 PM

Sounds like you have a great plan so far. One thing you might consider is a solar powered fan on the roof. They make them for marine applications in different sizes, but all you do is cut the hole mount it and forget about it. When that sun beats down the things run automatically and keep the air circulating and help pull out the heat.
They seem reliable as all hell, I've had one running everyday on my boat for about 5 years now.

RobertCDF · 12-03-2006, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robie

Just wondering what the proper setup is to have a compressed air fitting on the outside of the trailer. Can anyone explain or direct me?
Thanks.

I just used 1/4" Galvi pipe. You could use black pipe too if you wanted to. I drilled a hole and fed a 2" piece through and put a T outside with 2 quick disconects. Then I put a hose end on the inside and attached a 3' piece. Added a nipple on the end of the hose and plugged it into the compressor. Works great for me. My compressor has 2 outlets so I can still use one inside if I need to. This would be something you will want to add if yours does not have 2 fittings.

Eric K · 12-03-2006, 11:07 PM

I built custom trailers for about 5yrs. I have lots of ideas and methods when working on trailers. Any specific questions feel free to ask me. I also have a few pics of some things Ive done that were trailer proofed. I tryed reading through the original post but its late and my eyes hurt.

**Teetorbilt** · 12-03-2006, 11:28 PM

Robie, you can PM me about pneumatic systems. I have a few simple tricks.