Replacing Fuel Injectors

Greg Di

While I'm talking about my truck, let me ask some of you guys who know about engines and such.

This 2003 2500HD I have has 100k on it. I bought it pretty cheap, so I'm not surprised it has some issues.

I've already had a mechanic replace all the spark plugs, wires and some manifold gasket or something he thought would make this check engine light I keep getting come on. This cost about $750.

Turns out, the engine misfires THOUSANDS of times on most of the cylinders now. I have programmer, so I can now see and read the codes and do some diagnostics. The engine seems to run fine though. No rough running or anything.

From the research I've gleaned on the internet, these 6.0L gas engines have "known issues" with the injectors and rails. Actually, the whole engine and fuel system is a "known issue" when you look on the web.

Anyway...

I'm thinking about replacing all 8 injectors. I found an injector kit of 8 for $350, which isn't too bad for the parts I don't think.

Is this something a guy like me can do or should I take it to the shop? I would prefer NOT to take it back in since I think the guy I took it to previously doesn't particularly know what he's doing with regard to this engine even though he was recommended to me. I'm afraid to go to a dealer just because I think I'll get hosed and I'm not sure they'll give a crap either.

Again, many people have this issue with the gas and diesel engine injectors and I've read some real horror stories about no one being able to fix the problem despite spending lots of money at a dealer.

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Chris G

Wish I could help. I can only say that going to the dealership isn't a great idea cost-wise. They make bug profits on parts markups. And there mechanics aren't that great really. It's like asking Home Depot to build a deck.

I know sailboat owners replace there own injectors on there deisels all the time, so it may not be that hard.

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JFRAME

Greg,
I have had gas engines all my life until about three yrs ago,then I bought a powerstroke.Knowing just enough about gas engines to be dangerous and less about diesels,but not being rich enough to go the dealerships for maint,and diag probs.I decided to educate myself and found a website for powerstroke owners ,holy chit did I strike gold,If I have a problem,question or need opinions or just want to see pics of other members rigs or modifications ,all I have to do is ask and the other members are happy to help,WHAT A GREAT RESOURCE!

The point I 'm trying to make is-injectors wont be a problem for you (I've seen your work you're more than competent) and If you search you'll find a forum of 6.0,gm, chev,or something that will have members to help.

p./s. hows the DBs holding up?

bert0168

Can't help much but I think there is a special tool you need to pull them and I also think that the pass. side is a biotch to get at.

It's a diesel, right?

Good advice from Jframe. I found a wealth of info online to help in repairing my 5.9L Cummins.

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Greg Di

No guys...its a gasser.

There is TONs of info about the Duramax diesels, but info is tough to find on the gas 6.0 engine.

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JFRAME

If you haven't yet check the duramax sites for a gasser section,also I forgot one thing is a chiltons/haines manual I thought they were a gimmick but I got one for my F250 and it's worth every penny ty trucku tv members forum

mrmike

Hey Greg- I chenged all my Injectors in a Dodge Van I had & it was fairly simple. Find the cap & let off the pressure on your fuel line- Unbolt the the Fuel Injector frame rail & lift off carefully & replace each one & re-install- thats about it----------- Google it in & I would bet there is some "how to" 's there. P.S. It did not get my "check engine" lite off........... Good Luck!

rselectric1

I am currently fighting a dealer over a similar issue. The truck ran fine (2001 GMC Savanna) but the check engine light was wouldn't stay off. The dealer charged me $1800 to throw parts at it and returned it to me in worse condition than when I brought it in. (One example-they broke the distributor cap screws off and zip tied the cap on) There's more.

I took it to a highly recommended independant shop who fixed it where the dealer couldnt. Turns out it was a faulty ground wire to the computer which was causing the computer to put out 1000's of misfire codes.

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Greg Di

That's kind of what I'm afraid of. No one seems to put any thought into solving the problem when they can easily charge thousands in parts in labor chasing a ghost.

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rselectric1

Luckily, I put this on my credit card and sent them a cert. letter with my complaints with a threat of disputing the charges. They called me yesterday and I meet with the GM and Service Director tomorrow morning.

Among the problems was they kept the truck for 4 weeks and still didn't fix it.

I'll let you know how that turns out. Vehicles are just a PITA

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jtpro

I agree with the above join a truck forum or a truck specific forum. The one I'm in some of the guys know more about the trucks then some mechanics and are more than willing to share. GM guys knowing Fords etc.

I would go with Chiltons over Haynes. I was going to buy both but I was given a Haynes with my truck(I will buy a Chiltons shortly though). I have bought Haynes in the past for vehicles only because they were easier to find at the time.

hughjazz

I would recommend getting the haynes or chilton manual $25 +/-

They will layout the procedure. I haven't changed a chevy injector before as I am a ford guy.


What are the codes you are getting?

woodchuck2

Replacing the injectors on that truck is quite easy. You will need to pull the fuel pump relay, start the truck and let it run out of gas. Dis-connect the fuel line from the back of the fuel rail "you may need a special tool for this which any parts store will have", unplug all the injectors "the harness should be numbered for each enjector, if not the harness will lay right where they need to be", remove the 10mm bolts holding the fuel rail to the intake/plenum, gently pry the injectors up and out of the holes. If there is any debris then either vacuum it out or blow it out with an air gun before removal. To remove the injectors from the rail just remove the retaining clips and pull the injector out of the fuel rail. Reassemble in the opposite order. You may need to lubricate the new o-rings to slip the injector into the fuel rail and to press the injectors back into the intake/plenum.

WarriorWithWood

Exactly what was said above, just use petroleum jelly on the injector o-rings or they'll bind on the way in. You can also relieve the fuel pressure through the schrader valve on the rail. It's easier then pulling the fuse and letting the truck run. Just put a rag over it when you "release" it so fuel doesn't go everywhere.

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JFRAME

changing th inlectors is the easy part,if it were me I would talk to as many people as I could to get the correct diagnosis,and then start with the simple/easy/cheap fixes then go up from there.

My truck wouldn't start about 8 months ago and after talking to dealers and parts guys and friends that were PSD savvy, I was lost so I towed it to a dealer $150
Dealer had it for a couple days and ran codes and all this other mumbo jumbo and they were lost too,they decide it's the batts.$650 dollars later truck runs fine (there goes my festool TS55),talking to a sparky on a big job at lunch and tell him the story ( he's got the same truck) he says '' same thing happened to me and all you do is unplug this harness and then plug right back in everything resets itself and you're good to go"
about a week later and the truck would'nt start,I unplug the harnees and then plug it back ,works perfectly.

So I guess my longwinded point is dealer mechs don't always know ,and talk to as many people as you can before you start wrenching on your rig.

72chevy4x4

Greg, what are the codes the eccu is throwing? $750 was a lot for plugs/wires and something else. did the cap get replaced? Try puulling off the distributor cap and looking inside for signs of arcing or listen while the motor is running for arcing. if you're getting a lot of backfires-is there a possible problem w/ the knock sensor?

woodchuck2

It has no Dist cap or rotor, it has coil packs per cylinder. But looking for carbon tracing on the plugs and wires is a good thought. If you are changing the injectors take some time and flush out the fuel rail, you will find some sludge in it for sure. The knock sensor i am sure is working properly if it is setting mis-fire codes but it can be checked with a scan tool. If i remember correctly some of the GM engines such as the early 5.3 had mis-fire codes and engine knock issues due to carbon build up in the cylinders. Doing a fuel induction service wouldnt hurt it a bit.

Red Adobe

95% of the time a multi misfire on a GM gas is in the ignition . NOT FUEL

Id say its a coilpack thats starting to fail, with a real scanner (not just a code reader) you can find the cylinder and swap coilpacks and the misfire should move

Other possibles, the new spark plugs were dropped and have internal cracks (yup it happens)


Before doing anything with fuel other then adding some Lucas Id test the fuel pressure and do a contribution test

Greg Di

See, this is the kind of info I think the mechanic should know. I shouldn't have to research this and tell HIM.

It makes me realize that the mechanics just don't care. I highly doubt he is going home and doing internet research on how to resolve the problem like I do on my projects...

Actually, my programmer does give me very detailed diagnostic info, so I can tell which cylinders are misfiring and how much.

This coil pack swap out, is it a big deal?

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Inner10

I second the coil pack, I had a car years ago I though it was my transmission at first because it only missed when I was taking off, changed the coil problem solved.

Its an issue here because some coil packs aren`t sealed well and they get moisture in them, then freeze.

If your missing on one cylinder then change the coil, but if this has been going on for a while your pretty screwed. Gas doesn`t ignite, destorys lubricating properties of oil and then you loose compression in the cylinders and wear the rest of the engin.