Inclosed Trailer Insulation

Brockster

I've searched for a way to insulate my 8'by16' enclosed trailer in order to store paint, mud and sprayers in the winter. I'd like to have it spray foam insulated but I'd think it would pop the thin outside metal. Would 1" pink foam cut between studs be worth it and then how would you handle the ceiling? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

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ApgarNJ

i'm about to pick up my new trailer and plan on putting rigid foam in the walls and the ceiling if i can get thicker than an inch in between the alum studs then I will, the ceiling has a flat beam and then an arched beam that holds the top metal on. so i plan on putting thicker foam in the ceiling. i plan on having a small space heater in there when its on jobs, and run it on very low, just to keep everything from freezing solid. and will also help batteries.
i wouldn't spray foam it because the metal is so thin, it might buldge it out as it expands and cures. maybe some foam guys can weigh in on that though.

Robie

I have an 8 x 16 Haulmark and took off all the plywood on the sides and cut 3/4" rigid styro to fit between the ribs. I used the same stuff in the ceiling and installed white fiberglass panels to both hold the insulation in place and reflect the light.
I made cabinets with a space underneath specifically designed for gallon cans. Each area will have a 40w light bulb to keep things from freezing.

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CCSowner

I'm building a trailer and was wondering what I could do to keep it warmer/heated to keep mud and paint. It's going to be a 12'X8' cargo trailer.

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Adam Forsythe
Creative Covering solutions
"New England's Answer to Brick paving and Tile/Stone"
www.creativecoveringsolutions.com

ApgarNJ

I thought I would just make an insulated box for my caulk, maybe with 2 or 3 inch rigid foam around it, out of plywood. That should keep it from freezing solid. I think a 40 watt bulb may be a little bright. also, i know the trailer guy said to open the vent on the roof just slightly when running a small heater in there, or you can toast the whole trailer if the heat can't escape.
sounds kinda crazy but i'll believe him.
I thought about putting that silver faced rigid insulation faceing the metal sides to help radiate any heat back out of the thing in the summer too.
The rigid foam isnt' cheap, so I'll have to see how much I need. good thing the trailer i got doesn't have ply on the walls yet. i can get my own and install 1/2 inch on the walls. i think 3/4 may be too heavy

CCSowner

Most trailers that I have seen only use 1/4" plywood. But thicker is better I guess.

__________________
Adam Forsythe
Creative Covering solutions
"New England's Answer to Brick paving and Tile/Stone"
www.creativecoveringsolutions.com

ApgarNJ

i have to hang cabinets on the walls, so i want thicker ply on the walls, so i can fasten things wherever i want. i'll put 1/4 luan or some other kind of sheet good on the ceiling joists.

I just hope the insulation helps a little even if there isnt a heater inside. i know you can't really insulate the ramps or side doors at all.

Tin Cup

I always keep an oil filled electric heater in the trailer, mounted at the base to a piece of plywood that way i can slide it around to walk around or when carrying extra cargo. in the winter there will be snow on top of every vehicle everything except my trailer. keeps tools and caulk nice, when i leave in the morning everthing inside is warm, enough to stay warm during the day, plug it back in at night. very safe radiant heat does the trick for me. I didn't even bother to insulate the sides or ceiling of my 6'x10'. For days when i will be working in and out of the trailer on a very cold day and will have access to electric, i use a quartz electric heaters hanging from the ceiling, still safe radiant heat.

Good Luck
Tin Cup