Front rotors/removal, Dodge 4x4 - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

charlesmd · 09-20-2009, 07:57 AM

I need to resurface rotors on the front of a dodge ram 2500 4x4 diesel.
Anyone here ever had to remove the rotors. I thought I would ask before I go out and get myself pissed off trying to do this unsuccessfully(with a sledge in hand), it could get ugly!

Santa's Helpers · 09-20-2009, 08:07 AM

There are several Dodge diesel web sites that discuss this. I have not done it myself but, I remember this topic coming up often. Turbo diesel register is one site but, I think you have to pay to see old posts.
What year and is it 2wd or 4wd. I'll look it up for you if needed.
Jeff

charlesmd · 09-20-2009, 08:15 AM

Thanks Jeff. Its an 02, 4x4 slt quad cab. Ive taken the wheels off and figured I would have to take the lock nut off but Im not sure. Any help is appriciated.

bert0168 · 09-20-2009, 08:45 AM

Funny you should ask this. I have an 05 Dodge 4x4 Cummins.

You do not have to take the lock nut off. You will need to remove the calipers first and there might be some thin metal clips holding the rotor on the lug studs (these are not needed), take the rotors in and get em turned. The rotors should pop right off.

Don't be surprised if they are too thin to pass. That old I wouldn't be surprised if there isn't enough to be turned.

Now why is this funny? My truck has been in the shop for work in the front wheel area but what I need is new U joints. Sounds simple right. Well the mechanic called me yesterday to tell me that he cannot get the bearing hubs off. These are behind the rotors and are seized on. Not even with a 2 ton puller

.

So now I am looking at 2 complete bearing assys just to get to the U joints and not having my work truck for going on the second week

.

Sorry to rant and hijack but hopefully I answered your question. PM me if you want a link to a very good site for all things Dodge. There are some great DIY's there for this procedure.

**loneframer** · 09-20-2009, 08:56 AM

I have an 01 2500 Dodge 4x4. Apparently, it's not a simple job pulling the rotors, as it was with my 92 Dakota 4x4. My brake shop has a machine to surface the rotors on the vehicle. They told me that the hub bearings, which have anti-lock brake sensors integrated with them, would have to be pulled with the rotors. I later had the hub bearings replaced, along with upper/lower ball joints and the trac-bar. The factory replacement hub bearings were over $350 each, so don't damage them during removal if you're going to attempt doing it yourself.

bert0168 · 09-20-2009, 09:10 AM

Lone, you might be right. I checked out the the dodge forum I get tech info from and it looks like the 2nd gens do have to have the hub removed.

I know my 3rd gen CTD does not.

**loneframer** · 09-20-2009, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bert0168

Lone, you might be right. I checked out the the dodge forum I get tech info from and it looks like the 2nd gens do have to have the hub removed.

I know my 3rd gen CTD does not.

Thanks, good to know my brake man is honest.

Santa's Helpers · 09-20-2009, 09:21 AM

Try this link. If it doesn't work, I can email it or copy and paste it for you. It seems to be descriptive with pictures.
Jeff

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...sc-brakes.html

charlesmd · 09-20-2009, 01:05 PM

Its a done deal. Piece of cake. The hardest part was torching the bolts to remove the caliper brackets. There arent any grooves cut into the rotors,just never had turned them before so Im hoping they wont have to be replaced.

woodchuck2 · 09-20-2009, 01:07 PM

I used to be a Dodge tech back in 05 and IMO you might better buy new rotors. The rust build up on the inside of the rotor is going to keep you from pulling them past the wheel bearing flange. Chances are when you are beating them off the rotor will crack where the flange is anyway. Dodge designed the rotors too tight to the flange, just driving the truck through one winter will cause serious rust build up to the point the rotor will not slip off. I used to take an air chisel to the rotor where the offset is as it is very thin, i would then take the rotor off in several peices.

john5mt · 09-20-2009, 11:41 PM

Quote:

I have an 01 2500 Dodge 4x4. Apparently, it's not a simple job pulling the rotors, as it was with my 92 Dakota 4x4. My brake shop has a machine to surface the rotors on the vehicle. They told me that the hub bearings, which have anti-lock brake sensors integrated with them, would have to be pulled with the rotors. I later had the hub bearings replaced, along with upper/lower ball joints and the trac-bar. The factory replacement hub bearings were over $350 each, so don't damage them during removal if you're going to attempt doing it yourself.

someone is feeding you a bunch of bull****

You take off your wheels, take off your calipers and pads and slide off your rotors. 2000 and earlier non anti-lock systems were harder.... but not much.

an 01 is a piece o cake...they were just selling you on their stupid machine.

(i own an 01 cummins...if you look on cumminsforum.com there is a write up on how to put 03 front brakes on your 01-02 dodge. I did it and love the results.)

MetalBender · 09-21-2009, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john5mt

someone is feeding you a bunch of bull****

You take off your wheels, take off your calipers and pads and slide off your rotors. 2000 and earlier non anti-lock systems were harder.... but not much.

an 01 is a piece o cake...they were just selling you on their stupid machine.

(i own an 01 cummins...if you look on cumminsforum.com there is a write up on how to put 03 front brakes on your 01-02 dodge. I did it and love the results.)

Right On!

Rotors are cheap to replace and have your old ones turned for the next time. Cryo Slotted on my '04. CumminsForum.com has more info about these trucks than most will ever need to know and often there are get to gathers for owners to meet other owners and BS. Went to one yesterday at Hooter's in Omaha, good times!

TimNJ · 09-23-2009, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bert0168

Funny you should ask this. I have an 05 Dodge 4x4 Cummins.

You do not have to take the lock nut off. You will need to remove the calipers first and there might be some thin metal clips holding the rotor on the lug studs (these are not needed), take the rotors in and get em turned. The rotors should pop right off.

Now why is this funny? My truck has been in the shop for work in the front wheel area but what I need is new U joints. Sounds simple right. Well the mechanic called me yesterday to tell me that he cannot get the bearing hubs off. These are behind the rotors and are seized on. Not even with a 2 ton puller

.

I feel your pain. I had an '03 and one of my U joints went bad. My nephew who is a mechanic spent the better part of the day to break it free. He finally got it and all was well but he told me when the other side goes bad don't bother asking him to replace it

charlesmd · 09-23-2009, 02:47 PM

You know, after replacing the front rotors, found out that the rear needed to be replaced also. Then I found a seal leak at the axel. And then???
Anyone want dodge that needs a little work.

bert0168 · 09-23-2009, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimNJ

I feel your pain. I had an '03 and one of my U joints went bad. My nephew who is a mechanic spent the better part of the day to break it free. He finally got it and all was well but he told me when the other side goes bad don't bother asking him to replace it

OK, so to update, I finally got my rig back yesterday. Here is the damage:
Had to heat the bearing hub cherry WITH the 2 ton puller AND an air chisel to get the pass side off. Of course this toasted the hub assy AND melted the dust cover. The driver side came off with the puller and chisel but killed that hub and cover as well.

So, 2 new hub assys, 2 new dust covers, 2 new U joints (greasable now) and the bill is $1200. Actually not bad for the time he put in. Good thing this is my buddy and not the stealership.

All this for the lack of 2 .50 cent zerk fittings on the U joints. I swear they do this crap on purpose

TimNJ · 09-23-2009, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charlesmd

You know, after replacing the front rotors, found out that the rear needed to be replaced also. Then I found a seal leak at the axel. And then???
Anyone want dodge that needs a little work.

I believe the '02 has drum brakes in the rear? I had a '99 with drums in the rear and every brake job you had to replace the seals since the axle shafts have to come off with the drums. One bad seal and your brake job is ruined. The rear discs in the '03 were a lot nicer.

TimNJ · 09-23-2009, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bert0168

OK, so to update, I finally got my rig back yesterday. Here is the damage:
Had to heat the bearing hub cherry WITH the 2 ton puller AND an air chisel to get the pass side off. Of course this toasted the hub assy AND melted the dust cover. The driver side came off with the puller and chisel but killed that hub and cover as well.

So, 2 new hub assys, 2 new dust covers, 2 new U joints (greasable now) and the bill is $1200. Actually not bad for the time he put in. Good thing this is my buddy and not the stealership.

All this for the lack of 2 .50 cent zerk fittings on the U joints. I swear they do this crap on purpose

You got off cheap for all that work. My U joint was $100. They asked me if I wanted one made in China ($50) or one in the US ($100). I figured the Chinese one might be a little more towards metric dimensions or not quite what it should be and sprang for the extra $50.

woodchuck2 · 09-23-2009, 07:37 PM

There is a trick for popping loose the wheel bearings in the front of these and i will try to explain it to you for next time. When the rotor is off loosen the bolts for the wheel bearing but do not remove them, also keep the large retaining nut on tight also. Put a large socket "3/4-1" between the ear of the u-joint and the axle housing, turn the knuckle until it holds the socket in place, then start the engine and turn the steering wheel. Sometimes this takes a couple tries but it will shove the wheel bearing assembly out of the knuckle. The remove the large retaining nut and the bolts for the wheel bearing. If you do this with the nut off you take a chance of seperating the bearing. Just one of the tricks to the trade from my years of wrenching on these trucks.

TimNJ · 09-24-2009, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodchuck2

There is a trick for popping loose the wheel bearings in the front of these and i will try to explain it to you for next time. When the rotor is off loosen the bolts for the wheel bearing but do not remove them, also keep the large retaining nut on tight also. Put a large socket "3/4-1" between the ear of the u-joint and the axle housing, turn the knuckle until it holds the socket in place, then start the engine and turn the steering wheel. Sometimes this takes a couple tries but it will shove the wheel bearing assembly out of the knuckle. The remove the large retaining nut and the bolts for the wheel bearing. If you do this with the nut off you take a chance of seperating the bearing. Just one of the tricks to the trade from my years of wrenching on these trucks.

Woodchuck, couldn't help but notice that as an ex Dodge tech, that's a Chevy in your avatar picture. I guess that speaks volumes

woodchuck2 · 09-24-2009, 03:09 PM

Yep, i used to work at a GM dealer too. I used to be a Ford man and i still love their body styles and option packages but i wanted a reliable diesel. I knew Dodge couldnt put a good truck around the Cummins "best diesel engine IMO" and i knew how reliable the Duramax and Allison combo was so i went with GM. Now i am waiting for the new "Scorpion" diesel that Ford is building in-house to come out in 2011. If that engine lives up to the hype then i may go back to Ford. Might even be worth the time to retro fit the Ford for the Allison tranny.