Couple Of Trailer Questions For The Pros

Mike Finley

I'm really getting ready to make the jump to a trailer pretty soon here, this loading and unloading of tools for every job is getting to be for the birds! Not to mention I'm just drooling for the chance to park a big ole billboard on wheels in front of a job site for a week!

So for those who know...

Rear swing out doors or ramp doors?

Side door or not?

What size? This could be a stupid question, but I guess I am looking for a don't go any smaller than size and don't go any larger than size. For the smallest size it would be about of course having enough room for everything - and for the don't go any bigger size - it would be about how big is too big, like for weight issues and size issues and getting it in and around stuff. I was thinking about a 12 footer but don't want to out grow it.

What about width?

Do you run into any issues with taxes or registration fees on amount of axels or weight?

hatchet

I'm in the same boat Mike.. been doing quite a bit of research on trailers and pulled quite a few over the years.
I wouldn't go with anything less than 16-18'. I like the 18' because you can haul 16' lengths of trim/boards/etc without troubles (it works in a pinch anyway). A company I worked for when I was a kid had a 20' with a side door - they blocked in 3' of the front and had it heated for paint, caulking, and glue, etc.. then just used the side door for access. But honestly I think for quick jobs the 20' is too big.. if you're going to be spending months on a job then a 20' is probably alright as you'll need the extra space for more tools.. but if most of your jobs are week or less - you should be able to fit it in a 16 or even a 12 (see note above on length).
Personally I like the ramps - much easier to roll out your tablesaw and miter saw - if you use mobile stands.
Don't buy a single axle - they don't pull for crap. Tandem axle is the only way to go. Also - when loading keep your heavy stuff up front. You'll want more weight in front of the axles.. can get pretty squirrely (sp?) if you don't.
Hope that helps.

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PipeGuy

We use a Car Mate http://www.carmate-trailers.com/ 20' enclosed "car hauler" type trailer for our jobsite tool trailer. It has a rear assisted lift beaver tail type ramp with a man door on each side of the trailer. The beaver tail is great for moving heavy items in and out. We also built lots of heavy duty shelving, a small work bench / plan table and various other storage accesories to keep tools and equipment off the floor. A generator can be plugged in externally to power interior duplex outlets and overhead fluorescents. We also use an infrared propane heater during the dead of winter for lunch breaks.
We installed a motion activated alarm system that is remotely monitored, through alarm.com, using a cellular uplink. I put together a bank of of 6volt golf-cart batteries to provide 12VDC that is inverted to 110 VAC to run a dedicated outlet for the alarm. We run a generator with a battery charger about once a week to maintain the battery bank. It'll go about 5 days on a 3 - 4 hour charge.

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painterman

Mike,
I use a 12 ' single axel Never really had any problems towing it . Very stable. Never towed a dual wheel so I really don't know the differance. Sometimes I wish it was bigger. When I get my table saw,miter saw and airless in there it does get a little busy.With the smaller units (12foot) making storage spots in them can take up some alot of space. Next time I would go with a 16 foot.

Stan

Robie

I think, now that I've owned the smaller variety, that bigger is better. I have a 6 x 10 with swing out doors and a side door. The next one (just weeks away, I hope) is 7 x 16. The longer trailers are easier to back up. I like the idea of a ramp but am going with the swing out doors because when it starts to rain and blow in the trailer, you have to take up the ramp. Plus, you can't back in as close to something with the ramp style.
With the 6 x 10, I packed everything I could, that I thought I would need...electrical, plumbing, carpentry, trim, etc, etc. There was just not enough room! Then, I decided to just carry the everyday stuff and only take plumbing or electrical, etc. when the job calls for it. Wrong! It never fails, you are finishing up a tile job and the HO wants you to install a new faucet or something else you don't have the tools or supplies on board for.
With a 6 x 10, once you get the miter saw, stand, circular saw, drills, jigsaw, recip saw, levels, hand tools, misc scrap wood, buckets, painting stuff...there isn't a whole lot of room left.
Just my opinion...

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Big Dave

I love a ramp door. I am a bit heavy and hate having to step up into the trailer especially if your carrying something. As far as getting close to the job your only talking about a couple of feet difference. The trailer I bout was 8'6" wide on the exterior and a full 8' inside. I like the 16 foot length. It is actually about 16'6' inside because of the bowed front so no problem hauling 16' material.

You have to think about how you are going to use it. Are you just going to haul tools and material or do you want to be able to work inside on small projects? I set mine up as a mobile shop. I have everything I need to do what I do and have room to work inside on a small project rather than take the tools out of the trailer.

Definately get a side door. It beats having to lay down the ramp just to get something small.

These are some of the things that I have found out since purchasing my trailer.

Dave.

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new haven

We bought a UNITED brand 16ft trailer about 7yrs ago and I really like it. Have it set up as a work shop, 16 is a great size and like Big Dave said with the bowed front you can load it up with 16ft material no problem. We ordered ours from the factory, took about 4wks. From the factory we had ladder racks installed (have used them for other things more than I ever thought I would), barn doors on the back lets you back right up to the door to load or unload, side door is a must, diamond plate on the front keeps road rash away, wired for electric with lights and 30amp outlets running to a breaker box with a cord that drops through the floor.

A couple of things that I did that turned out well were when I took delivery I sealed the walls with sanding sealer and a coat of poly, easier to keep clean and I primed and painted the floor with gray deck paint with non skid added, makes it a lot safer when you have water or snow.

One reason I mentioned the brand name was because axels , paint, and materials used are top of the line and after 7yrs on the road and spending the entire time outdoors it looks almost new. Only thing I wish they would have done differently is use stainless screws.

Walt

IHI

With the literally hundreds of trailers I've pulled, sized up, used/abused etc...for the jobs like most of us do (in and out) the 16' is about right, definately spring for the V nose-you'll be amazed at how well it pulls and the better mpg you'll get compared to a flat nose or curved nose. Not to mention it's basically "free space" since the 16' actually starts where the sides of the trailer square off with the start of the v which is typically an addition 2-3' depending on manufacturer. Once you get to 18' plus the hang over behind the axles really gets low and driving into/out of steep driveways/parking lots they tend to scrap alot, I've ripped off more "skid plate runners" then I care to remember hauling the long trailers and going into/out of gas stations. My 20' open trailer with beaver tail hits alot of driveways when pulling in or backing up

Make sure the roof is radiused, do not get a flat top. these are prone to problems with water and snow sitting looking for and creating leaks.

If you do any exterior doors with sidelights, patio doors/french doors, etc...opt for the taller sidewalls. This will be a necessity when I get my new trailer.

7' wide is standard, but can get crowded in a hurry especially with the additions of shelves. the 8'6" width is nice but in tight neighborhoods it can get hairey. I've done work in an area the cubie took the entire road and I had to drive on neighbor across the streets lawn to get backed into customers driveway. If going with the fat boy trailer invest in good mirror extensions, if you get pulled over for some reason and cannot pass the "can you see behind the trailer test" you'll get fined.

Doors are your choice, I like the ramp doors for ease of access loading and unloading...most our loading docks are built for semi's so either barn door or ramp door would do me no good as soon as you back to dock half of your opening is covered anyways LOL!! 48" side door is a must, be sure it has the metal retention device that holds door in open postion...the plastic ones will break off.

Get the heaviest ply tires possible, most trailer come with just standard 2-3 wall sidewall and once your loaded up they take a beating and wear fast. 3500lb axles and dual electric brakes are standard but I personally like the 8 lug 5000lb axles with D-F rated tires for durabilty. dual axles a must-stability and safety. should you blow a tire you can still make it to your destination cautiously

At least 2 12V interior lights that run off trailer brake battery for times when your truck is'nt hooked up and you need some light. Diamond gravel sheild in front should be standard.

A good Techocha (sp?) brake controller is a must, you can turn up the sensativity and make the trailer stop your whole rig and save on truck brakes...this is what most hot shots do when hauling trailers cross country. I would recommend a distribution hitch also, even without the additional sway control system installed they do take alot of sway out of the towing and make the truck perform better since it's sitting leveler instead of trying to do wheelies.

The LED lighting option is nice, but this is a work trailer so realistically you'll have a job that a low branch might catch it and rip a light/s off, so go incadensant so your only dropping $3-5 per light as opposed to $25-55 per lgiht.

Sorry so long

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benchmark2323

a 14' is big enough for your 12' brakeon 1 side and shelves on the other if its 6' wide.ramp door cuz the generator is really heavy .side door is nice if its raining . also get a trailer with brakes. if not your truck will eat them for lunch

bob the builder

Size of trailor depends on what your going to keep in there. If your just doing kitchens and baths what do you really need? Do you plan on picking up cabinet orders with it? I stock quite a bit of hardware in mine for those times when you need a 8" timbermate just go in the trailor and grab one. The hardware takes up a lot of room. I worked in most every size and am comfortable in a 16', but you may be able to get away with less.

Ramp door and side door without a doubt, and everything IHI mentioned...

Bob

Teetorbilt

We have some guys here that have had them made. e.g. teak decking guy has doors split horizontially (steps below and a cover for rain). The tablesaw/router table sits in the center and has a pass-through in the front so that he can work long pieces. Table extensions are drop-ins. Pretty clever!

There are a few guys with a woodshop-in-a-box and they are all layed out differently.

I think that it's an evolutionary proposal. I'd screw it all together to make the evolution easier. Try it and change it until it's right for you and your jobs.

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Mike Finley

I took a look at a couple of places that sell trailers. One was a bust, guy knew less than I did about them, the other was a gold mine, guy knew everything you could imagine.

I had originally planned on getting a used one but within about 20 minutes it became way too obvious that there was no way I would find a used one set up the way I wanted once I was shown the potential.

So far I am thinking - swing doors in the back, no ramp. Ramp costs extra and I don't see any advantages to it for me. 14-16' length and now I forgot the width, but I think it was 6-6 interior or something like that. I like the tires where they don't stick out on the sides with fenders. The one I looked at the boxes over the tires were really no big deal, especially since I will have shelves and storage along both sides. I like the smooth sided option so I can have graphics all over it. Extra 6 inches of heigth also.

Tandem wheels for certain. Some sort of 110 electrical package for sure with some real lights in their.

At this point I want a mobile tool shed on wheels with every tool I could possible use for the work we do. Materials aren't that big of a deal but if I can work some sort of way to get some in there too that would be great. Basically I need a trailer system for two reasons - tired of packing everything into the back of a pick up for each job, way too much stuff, way too much time and effort being spent loading and unloading all this crap. Secondly with the eye on expanding I need it idiot proofed, no way employees are going to do what I am doing. A stocked trailer will be the only way it could work that I see.

Still looking into it, but the package I am looking at is about $5500 new. Thanks for all the detailed information you guys posted, that was just what I was looking for in figuring this out.

Mike Finley

Have you ever thought of putting one of those flexible solar panels on the roof and have it trickle charge your battery bank? I have one on my sailboat and it automatically keeps my batteries topped off. The one I have is mounted on the deck in front of the mask and can even be walked on without hurting it. Seems the top of a trailer would be an ideal place to mount one of these and let it do it's thing.

Teetorbilt

Mike, I'm on the hook now and am using one of the cheapies to run the pumps.

I'm running a BS campaign now, staff knows, but I'm over it. My wife is dealing with breast cancer. I'll ask Nathan to make it public. It's not bad but my perspective and may be useful to someone else.

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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

IHI

Mike, the typically sell a "standard" eletrical or 110V package which usually includes 2- 4' flouresant lights with light switch and 2-4 outlets...the bad thing is this electrical package typically starts at $600 for "them" to install. You know how to run wires, doing it in a trtlr is not rocket science and with copper prices currently you'll burn up the $600 for wire only so save your coin on electrical and do yourself, and use that money elsewhere on the trlr.

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Mike Finley

Yeah, I was wondering about that, the only thing I'm not sure about is the breaker panel and how you would set it up to be fed from an outlet from the house. After the panel is installed it would be easy, plus the benefit of being able to run it the way you want it.

Mike Finley

Becareful if you are feeding direct - if you get a few days of no sun, you might find just the mast sticking out of the water next to the slip!

We know how you guys in Florida don't get much sunshine down there!

PipeGuy

The last time I checked prices on the solar panels I noticed they had come way down since I put the alarm in. I'll probably get that done by summer's end.

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Fortunately I keep my feathers numbered for...for just such an emergency. -Foghorn Leghorn

IHI

Mike, to feed the tralr juice from a house/jobsite go to an RV dealer and pick up a box that you can either flush mount to the exterior surface of the trailer wall or simply bolt it on the exterior any place you want, it will have a lid just like a outdoor GFCI outlet and when you open there will be a male recepticle that your drop cord will run into, then just run that into a 2-4 space breaker box for your interior circuits.

Not real hard at all, but there are alot of cool things at RV dealerships you can use to really pimp out your trlr. Also check the RV section at your nearest super wal-mart too, often they will have items like this as well for hooking up power.

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Mike Finley

Sweet. We need a new show on TV called Pimp My Trailer!