Woodcrafter74

I’m looking for the smallest and thinnest table saw blade that will fit a 5/8” arbor.

I’m working on some fine furniture and I want the drawer fronts and the surrounding face frame to be the same piece of wood so the grains match perfectly. I’m planning on laying the wood blank on the table saw and cranking the blade up through the wood. A normal 10” blade will work fine on the horizontal parts of the drawer front, but on the ends, I need a diameter closer to 5”. The kerf should be no more than 1/8”, but preferably smaller.

Anyone seen any blades this small, or have a better recommendation on how to cut these out?

RobertCDF

Jigsaw? with giudes clamped down they have thin blades. (although I am not a furniture builder I tried ONCE.)

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Woodcrafter74

CDF,
I've thought of that and probably will try a test piece. My concern is that I'll get some movement in the blade and not have a perfectly straight cut line.

Thanks.

K2

I thought I saw something for a router that would plunge and cut. i don't remember where. Sounds like a fun project. Pics when your done??

Woodcrafter74

I don't think plunge cutting bits would be small enough, they would probably would give at least 1/4" cut line or more. I want closer to an 1/8", I'm probably too picky, but the details are were it's at. Thanks for the idea.

Mike Finley

Wow, how would you line up those cuts, being that they are all laying face down ?

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Woodcrafter74

Lots of set up time! Usually when I’ve done this, I’ll put pieces of tape on the table saw top that reference where the front and back of the blade cuts when raised to a specific height (the tape extends past the wood on the side opposite the fence). I mark the edge of the wood at exactly where I want the cut to start and stop. Then lay the board on the table, and raise the blade up to the pre-determined specific height and move the wood until the mark on the wood meets the tape line.

For the piece that I’m working on now, this method would work great on the longer horizontal runs of the drawer front, but not on the narrow ends because the blade diameter is about twice the width of the desired cut. I think what I’m going to have to do if I can’t find a small blade is start the cut lines with the table saw as described above—that will give me a straight cut line on the front, and go the rest of the way through with a jig saw.

Tom R

How about 'reversing' your process??, - - use a Porter Cable (or similar) 4 1/2" circular saw, - - set up a 'guide-jig' for alignment and plunge downward. Thin blade, small diameter. Maybe some 'self-stick' felt on the bottom of the saw table.

DecksEtc

The blade that came with my cordless 6 1/2" circular saw (Hitachi) has a very thin kerf approx. 1/16". Not sure if smething like that will work for you or not but I thought I'd let you know.

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Tom R

Besides, - - not sure, - - but I doubt if anything 'less' than about a 6 1/2" blade would even be usable, - - that is, - - a saw that takes a 10" blade may not even have enough 'lift' for a 5" blade to 'top' table level. I would think you'd also be lowering your cutting speed pretty dramatically.

Teetorbilt

Dadgum, here I go giving away secrets again!

Woody, go to your local machine shop and ask to dig through their suppliers catalogs. In a 5/8 mandrel, 4-1/2" Dia. you should be able to get down to 0.028 W. There will also be a selection of TPI. These are going to be mostly metal cutters and will load quickly at tablesaw speeds, I recommend that you slow down the saw, if you can. Next, you have to clear the chips. I jerry rig a disposable paintbrush to wipe down the teeth as they come around. Your feed rate should be about the same as for metal. Again, the teeth don't have the chip capacity as wood blades.

For best results, buy a decent miterbox. If you are really serious, look into an A11 pattern mitre plane by Classic Planes. You can also hire old Italian woodworkers who can precisely cut any angle in their sleep and they're much better awake. LOL

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Tom R

Re-read his post, - - he can't use a miterbox for a 'start-and-stop' cut. That's why he needs to 'plunge', - - whether up or down.

Woodcrafter74

Tom/Terry, I like your ideas, in fact on the way home tonight it came to me that I have 4 1/2" cordless saw with about a 1/16" kerf, and it has a guide fence too (don't know how it will take 3/4" red oak, but we'll try). I'll just have to secure the piece--clamps or screwing a support piece to the back should work. If all that fails, I'll try to find an old Italian somewhere.

Thanks everyone for the input. I guess it just goes to show that nine heads are better than one, who knew?

Tom R

Can't picture the 'cordless-and-oak' combination workin', - - but good luck and let us know how you do.

Teetorbilt

Tom, you're right. I went over it too quickly.

For this type of cut, I currently use lasers (+/- 0.002") or waterjet (+/- 0.005"). This is WAY better than the old methods.

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Woodcrafter74

"When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail"

Teetor, I have a few more tools than hammer, but I'm a long way from a laser cutter or water jet.

I'll let you all know how I make out.
Thanks

Mike Finley

Can you sub the cuts out to somebody else?

That's my trick when I can't do something!

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Tom R

That's alright, - - we all do it.

Teetorbilt

I still haven't bought my own water jet. Maint. problem reports from owners is the primary reason. Laser ruins SS as far as secondary machining. These things are NOT a shop accessory, they have to keep running to turn a profit.

I sub all of this work out and have to drive at least 30 mi. in any direction to do it but it is easily worth it. I pay $1 per 6". Most cuts are doubled just to provide clearance. If you can adjust a drawer slide to 0.0025, my hat is off to you.

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Leo G

Couldn't find one with a 5/8" bore, but I did find one with a 1" bore. It is a 4 1/2" 36 tooth with a 1/32" kerf. If you could make a 1" to 5/8" adapter for it you could use it. I would just find an appropriate washer and mill it. here is the link.'

http://onlineindustrialsupply.com/7-170.html

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