Sawhorse Design

 
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Old 04-11-2006, 02:34 PM   #1
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Sawhorse Design


Does anyone have a "unique" do-it-yourself sawhorse design they would like to share? Maybe something that breaks down and goes to the next job-site easier. I get some great ideas here. You all help me to "think outside the box" at times.
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Old 04-11-2006, 02:48 PM   #2
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Re: Sawhorse Design


tried many, found it best to get metal ones from Lowe's, just fold out, work, fold up, throw in truck, no muss, no fuss, holds a lot of weight too

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Old 04-11-2006, 03:38 PM   #3
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Re: Sawhorse Design


Have a break down design that worked for me for years but I have no clue how to draw on this computer, and I don't have the lumber to slam some together. I'm not good at explaining but here goes. BTW I have opted for a fold up set of "The Pack Horse". Don't know who makes them but I like them because the idea of folding up metal ones puts blood blisters on my fingers. I've loaded em up and they still stand tall.
Build your A frames for the base as you see fit, but at the top where they meet to accept the beam, make them have a 1 5/8" horiz. gap between them 3", or 3 1/2" deep. The beams I built sorta like lincoln logs if that image helps. 1 full length(whatever width you desire your horses) 2x4 in the middle, sandwiched by 2x4's cut 20" shorter than the middle beam and nailed centered on the middle beam. leave a 1 5/8 gap on both ends of the outside scabs and scab on blocks to flush you to the ends of the middle board. If your A frame "pocket" is cut 3 1/2 deep you can scab a 1x or 2x to the top of the beam for overcuts. Beam should slide right down into your A frame gap and be a "little" wobbly but safe. Don't cut your end scabs too short or you'll have to blunt the tips of your nails to keep them from splitting in time. Or predrill and screw.
Man I'm not too good at splainin stuff either but I hope you can read it slowly and make sense of it. Worked for me and probably still being used where I left them. If that doesn't clearly give you an idea, pm, and I'll try splainin better.

Last edited by snapper21; 04-11-2006 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 04-11-2006, 10:40 PM   #4
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Re: Sawhorse Design


You wont find a lot of guys left who know how to do this. I see a lot of stupid looking things I wouldnt call a saw horse. I was taught to use a 1/4" offset. Legs are 1/4" out of square in the thickness of the 2x4 and a 1/4" bevel in the same thickness. 1x6 for the legs sloped to fit the 2x4. Perfect horses if you do it right.


Quote:
Originally Posted by snapper21
Have a break down design that worked for me for years but I have no clue how to draw on this computer, and I don't have the lumber to slam some together. I'm not good at explaining but here goes. BTW I have opted for a fold up set of "The Pack Horse". Don't know who makes them but I like them because the idea of folding up metal ones puts blood blisters on my fingers. I've loaded em up and they still stand tall.
Build your A frames for the base as you see fit, but at the top where they meet to accept the beam, make them have a 1 5/8" horiz. gap between them 3", or 3 1/2" deep. The beams I built sorta like lincoln logs if that image helps. 1 full length(whatever width you desire your horses) 2x4 in the middle, sandwiched by 2x4's cut 20" shorter than the middle beam and nailed centered on the middle beam. leave a 1 5/8 gap on both ends of the outside scabs and scab on blocks to flush you to the ends of the middle board. If your A frame "pocket" is cut 3 1/2 deep you can scab a 1x or 2x to the top of the beam for overcuts. Beam should slide right down into your A frame gap and be a "little" wobbly but safe. Don't cut your end scabs too short or you'll have to blunt the tips of your nails to keep them from splitting in time. Or predrill and screw.
Man I'm not too good at splainin stuff either but I hope you can read it slowly and make sense of it. Worked for me and probably still being used where I left them. If that doesn't clearly give you an idea, pm, and I'll try splainin better.
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Old 04-12-2006, 05:20 AM   #5
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Re: Sawhorse Design


Forgot to mention that your beam rests on the top cross braces which sandwich the legs.
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Old 04-12-2006, 06:25 AM   #6
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Re: Sawhorse Design


I agree with abp. Go to the lumber yard or hardware store and get those heavy gauge steel orange folding ones and screw a 2x4 to the top.
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Old 04-15-2006, 11:21 PM   #7
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Re: Sawhorse Design


Quote:
Originally Posted by snapper21
Have a break down design that worked for me for years but I have no clue how to draw on this computer, and I don't have the lumber to slam some together. I'm not good at explaining but here goes. BTW I have opted for a fold up set of "The Pack Horse". Don't know who makes them but I like them because the idea of folding up metal ones puts blood blisters on my fingers. I've loaded em up and they still stand tall.
Build your A frames for the base as you see fit, but at the top where they meet to accept the beam, make them have a 1 5/8" horiz. gap between them 3", or 3 1/2" deep. The beams I built sorta like lincoln logs if that image helps. 1 full length(whatever width you desire your horses) 2x4 in the middle, sandwiched by 2x4's cut 20" shorter than the middle beam and nailed centered on the middle beam. leave a 1 5/8 gap on both ends of the outside scabs and scab on blocks to flush you to the ends of the middle board. If your A frame "pocket" is cut 3 1/2 deep you can scab a 1x or 2x to the top of the beam for overcuts. Beam should slide right down into your A frame gap and be a "little" wobbly but safe. Don't cut your end scabs too short or you'll have to blunt the tips of your nails to keep them from splitting in time. Or predrill and screw.
Man I'm not too good at splainin stuff either but I hope you can read it slowly and make sense of it. Worked for me and probably still being used where I left them. If that doesn't clearly give you an idea, pm, and I'll try splainin better.
[COLOR="Black"]

How? Which? Who?
I need some pix, but I would probably not build them anyway.
My favorite sawhorses I got from Boeing surplus they are welded aluminum and have a max load of 3,500 Lbs. (which means they hold 2x or more then that. Of course they are a bit of a pain to haul , but if I need a place to put my truck . . .
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Old 04-17-2006, 10:40 PM   #8
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Re: Sawhorse Design


My crews use my $100 fold out ladders laid on side. I my self like using those spindles left behind by those wire pullers.
My mexicans like to nail a cross member on a tree w/ a leg on the other end. My partner, an animal from Barbidos just cuts straight out in front of him and stacks plywood along the wall like dry-wall and cuts it on the side. My favorite is wedging 2xs in the trusses while decking to elevate it and after you cut the scrap just falls through the roof.
Why is it no matter how many ladders I buy my mexican crews they allways have to make one out of wood?
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Old 04-18-2006, 05:17 AM   #9
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Re: Sawhorse Design


I use the great white brand horses. you can put any lenth 2x material in them and they fold up small. never bend or break like the ones i started out with, that have the 2x4 on top. with the legs folded inside.
faster than building a set on jobsites like i see many framers do.
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Old 04-30-2006, 09:43 PM   #10
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Re: Sawhorse Design


I like the Stanley Faxmax folding metal leg sawhorses myself.
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Old 04-24-2007, 06:52 PM   #11
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Re: Sawhorse Design


The poster who mentioned "The Packhorse" is right on. I've tried them all over the years and this one is the best. Bought them at HD a few years ago and still works well, takes my abuse. Handles lots of weight, folds up small, has adjustable height legs for any surface, has a carrying handle, impresses your clients.

Can't get them at HD anymore. Look at thepackhorse.com web site.
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Old 04-24-2007, 07:07 PM   #12
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Re: Sawhorse Design


My Grandfather had a set of saw horses that were made from 2X12's for tops, 4 feet long, and the bottom was boxed...the legs folded in, and they were nifty....I haven't built a sawhorse in years....metal ones as mentioned above with 2X's on top.....why go through the agony?
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Old 04-25-2007, 08:32 PM   #13
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Re: Sawhorse Design


I like the little folding plastic ones. They have a shelf on the bottom, fold up to two inches thick , have a carry handle and hold up to 7hun pounds I think it is. Can put a 2x4 on the top slot .
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Old 04-25-2007, 08:43 PM   #14
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Re: Sawhorse Design


Quote:
Originally Posted by Downeast View Post
I like the little folding plastic ones. They have a shelf on the bottom, fold up to two inches thick , have a carry handle and hold up to 7hun pounds I think it is. Can put a 2x4 on the top slot .
Thats what I use. I have built perminant horses for my upholstery business (another life) and used them when I started remodeling but they took up too much room. The folding ones fit nice in the trailer and are light weight.
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Old 04-25-2007, 09:03 PM   #15
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Re: Sawhorse Design


when i started years ago we would just make them 2x4s. cut an 8 footer in half, T it nail it. orientate it as an upside down T. cut 4 35" legs. nail them add a cross member support and rock. we hardly ever saved them unless we were building alot of houses or condos in the same area. You could figure they cost about $3-4 a piece.

For the last couple of years I have used the metal fold ups with a 2x4 screwed to top. I also have a set wrapped with pipe insulation, and carpet

I have the height set to the highest they will go and still fold up with out having to jack with the wingnuts. The dont fold up completely but close.

Last edited by theartisan; 04-25-2007 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 04-25-2007, 09:09 PM   #16
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Re: Sawhorse Design


I still build my own, build them in sets so that one cradles the other for transport and storage. It's an old carpenters thing. I like the legs spread wider for more stability and I get a height more suited for my 6'2" frame.

I think that Norm on TOH has his plans available online. Swipe'em and modify them to your own usage.
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Old 04-25-2007, 09:42 PM   #17
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Re: Sawhorse Design


I also like to build my own, when I can.
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Old 04-27-2007, 06:43 AM   #18
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Re: Sawhorse Design


Good to hear Teetor and Cole carrying on the tradition. I like to build my own too when starting on a job of any size. It's a really therapeutic thing for me, something like settling into the jobsite. For a whole-condo finish job I just built a 36" tall pair from 2x3, topped with 1x6 primed pine. They're finish horses, look more like deer. Easier to cope and jigsaw at countertop height. Framing wants a lower horse more like an ox.

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