Portable BandSaws

MikeNeufeld

Need to get one!!! Looking at the makita and milwaukee units. It is only gonna be used for cutting metal spindles and lots of em. Is this the rite route to go. Would that pipe cutter from Milwaukee also do the job. The spindles are for interior rails and some exterior.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com:80/Prod...ordless+System

mikeswoods

I've got a lot of hours on a Port-a-Band---Milwaukee has got good balance-Easy to control-

I never tried that portable tubing cutter--Just a suggestion-if this is a one shot deal-Rent a pipe threading machine--Very fast cutting- just a thought.

Cole82

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...2611_200382611
Will buz right through them and leave a nice cut with one little bur to clean off. One swipe with a file and it's gone.

Mike beat me to it.

BCConstruction

How clean has the cut got to be?

KillerToiletSpider

I have a Porter Cable that I am extremely happy with, the Milwaukee does not have the blade speed control that the Porter Cable offers.

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MikeNeufeld

it will be for 28 houses and around 3500- 5000 spindles to be used over a while. Rather buy than rent and I just need the cut pretty clean.

BCConstruction

I would go for a metal chop saw if i was you.

maybe something like this http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D28715-...8685604&sr=8-9

WarnerConstInc.

You need a horizontal band saw, for cutting metal.

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Inner10

Mike what gauge are the spindles? Hollow?

I use a metal abrasive cut-off saw like BC mentioned (or trak saw as we call them) for cutting 12 gauge steel strut, metal TV lift rails, articulated arm brackets, threaded cores etc etc.

All of them look identical and are cheap 150-300 dollars. Get a pack blades, although one blade seems to last forever as they wear down they will heat up the metal more and more and you get a bit of a melted tail of metal as you cut. Using the right amount of pressure is key.

The only problem is that they heat up your cutting material alot, so if the spindles are finished and colour change from heat is a problem then stay away.

I'd love to get a Dry-Cut saw, they cut faster, no sparks, less heat, no colour distortion etc. Only problem is I don't use it enough unless I have a big strut job to warrent the cost (they start around 400 bucks and the blades are expensive).

Here's one:

http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-71687-D...8691247&sr=1-3

To cut tubular steel in a shop I worked in we had a big stationary bandsaw which also worked very well. I couldn't see getting that straight of a cut with a hand held guy though.

mikeswoods

Jet makes an inexpensive band saw like WARNER mentioned.
They work O.K. Should do for this job--Save some hours-more accurate.

mrmike

FREE SHIPPING — Milwaukee D-Handle Chop Saw — 14 in., Model# 6180-20 Northern Tool

FREE SHIPPING — Milwaukee D-Handle Chop Saw — 14 in., Model# 6180-20 4.9 / 5

Item# M0510
Was $209.99

Sale $199.99


The only tool-free abrasive cutoff machine on the market. No tools required for adjusting the back fence or changing abrasive wheels. Features a 3/8in. thick quick-release adjustable cast iron vise. The D-handle provides optimum comfort whether the tool is on the ground or on a bench.







This saw will do just fine cutting your spindles. You can get the cheaper "northern tool" chop saw which I have that works fine-but for extended use you may want the Milwaukee. I don't use mine that much............

joasis

I do a lot of steel fabrication, and this is what I use. You can shop this price around, but you would be satisfied with how it works. Light years ahead of abrasive saws.

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CCgQ8gIwAA#

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IHI

How are the blades holding up for ya, I've been eyeing them since they hit the market, but after buying a few carbide steel cutting blades in the past i was'nt happy with the longevity of them....i'm sure rpm had a great deal to do with the quick demise even with slow pressure going through the cut.

Safety glasses mandatory?
heat build up if cutting a painted surface?
will it cut 1/4" thick wall tubing of all shapes?
How well does it work with thinner guage materials like 1/8" flat stock?
think guage aluminum?

We've been using a standard abrasive cut off chop saw for years, but i would like real feedback on this unit and the blades before dropping that kind of change only to be disappointed.

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joasis

The blades last longer then you expect...abuse kills them before they wear out.

I was sold on this saw after watching a welder cut a 1 x 2 inch bar.....now mind you, you cannot "horse" the saw like you can an abrasive, but the cut is really clean.

For tubing, I doubt you would wear one blade out.

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MikeNeufeld

thanks for all the feedback, some of the spindles range from 1/2" hollow to 3/4" solid so thats why I thought of the bandsaw idea. The cutoff saws would save alot of time though..

Inner10

Mike I should mention that little milwaukee pipe cutter is more for copper pipe, not much for what you want to cut.

Jo, what blades do use on your dry-cut. I stuck with the abrasive because its cheaper and I don't need a perfect cut on what I do, but i've seen dry-cuts in action and they rock.

joasis

http://cgi.ebay.com/DeWALT-14-70T-Fe...item51847a5cf0

I have had good luck with a few of these.

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jiffy

You don't know what you are missing by not having a metal cutting saw that uses carbide teeth. Cold cut saw, very little heat transfer, very few if any sparks, the cutting capacity stays the same (unlike an abrasive wheel that shrinks with use), burr free cuts that allow you to cut threaded rod and still thread a bolt with no hassle, etc.


Cordless version-Great tool
http://makitausa.com/en-us/Modules/T....aspx?ID=20210

Corded 12"-Great for larger projects
http://makitausa.com/en-us/Modules/T...ls.aspx?ID=309

TempestV

If you need a good clean square cut, the dry cut saw is the way to go.

Aaron111

I have three of them