Pimping Out My New Trailer

DecksEtc

Okay, so I'm starting a new thread looking for advice/suggestions for outfitting my new trailer. here's the link for the one I bought:

http://216.223.162.33/onesite/publis...closed%20Cargo

I got the 6' wide x 10' long by 6' high interior in black. I know there are a lot of pictures scattered here and there throughout different threads but I thought, along with helping me out, starting a new one about trailer interiors might be helpful for others as well.

I do have a couple of questions about how to do things as well (remember this is my first trailer, ever!):

1. How do I go about attaching whatever shelving, racks, hooks and/or work areas onto the interior walls? The reason I ask is because I know I don't want to go through the exterior but do I want to make sure whatever I put up won't come loose.

2. I like the look of how Big Dave's looks (see TBA thread) inside so far yet I don't have the same interior length as he does. I like the idea of building customized storage areas for things like the shop vac, etc., and I like the idea of the work bench. However, because I have less length inside, would having just straight shelves along the side without the front side door be a better way to go. And by doing so, leave enough room on the shorter side to set up my mitre saw stand should I need to work inside the trailer (when it rains)?

3. If I do have shelving to store everything from tool cases to boxes for hardware, it is okay to use bungee cords (or something else) to secure everything on the shelves. Since, I don't have a lot of experience driving with a trailer, I'm sure it will take me awhile to get used to driving it around and not spilling everything on the inside.

4. Would using something like Rubbermaid bins be a good, cost effective idea for storing all loose items on board or should I suck it up and look for something customized?

5. Speaking of shelving and cost effective solutions, should I look into specialized shelving made for cargo trailer interiors or will building them myself from plywood be better. I do want to be cost effective but I don't want to try making them if I'm going to end up not being happy with the results and having to go out and buy pre-made shelving. The last thing I want to do is waste money and time building something that I replace and throw away.

6. Any other suggestions and/or help you might have?

I take delivery on Thursday so I'll post pics of the bear shell if that helps with any follow-up questions.

Thanks in advance!

Eric K

Im kinda tired right now, but tomorrow when I get home from work Ill be more than happy to guide you through this. Trailers used to be my specialty.

Eric K

Actually I just found an email I sent to one of the members here explaining what to do. I'm just going to copy and paste, As for the shelves I describe below, search "trailer" on here and look at my old trailer to get a visual.....

My suggestion would be to tear that all off down to the metal studs. They are either 1.25" or 1.5" thick. Take either 1/2" OSB or 1x material and route a rounder edge on them and screw them to the trailer walls. OSB leave 1/8" gapping for movement. If doing the 1x space about 3-4" apart running the length of the trailer. Predrill through the wood and into the metal studs with an 1/8" bit. You can use regular drywall screws or a flat head metal screw. This will give you the ability to screw in shelving anywhere in the trailer.

As for the shelving I prefer to make my own with 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" aluminum angle. Build square the size of the shelf you want and put legs on it. Use 1/4" x 1" carriage bolts, lock washers, nuts. Use 1/2" CDX plywood for the shelving and cover it with carpet runner from Homo depot. For the aluminum look toward the internet for a supplier the depot is way too expensive.

Fastening to the floor is done by taking small pcs of angle with predrilled holes 3/16" and panhead screws or taking stainless bolts and bolting through the floor.

Hope this all makes sense and helps. Anything else I can help with lemme know.

Big Dave

The best advice I can give is start with your bigger tools and put them where you want so you can work with them and then start filling in the areas around with the next smaller and work your way down. Bungees are a good idea. The size trailer you bought will jump around alot more and things will not stay put. I wasn't sure when I bought mine and bungeed everything down but because of it's size and weight and two axles nothing moves. I've got a barstool that I keep in it and I just leave it standing on the floor and it doesn't even tip over.

Hope this helps, Dave.

P.S. Don't get in a hurry and think you have to put everything in it at once. Just put some stuff in it on the floor and get an idea of how much room you are going to have and wait for a few days and study it before you build.

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Do one thing at a time, do it well, then move on.
http://www.bigdaveswoodworks.com

Pearce Services

Also take the time to try to balance the weight of your load, and leave any heavy items over the wheels. you need some tongue weight, but not too much.

I looked in to a company called Moduline for lightweight aluminum storage, they are pricey, but are very light, which will allow for more job materials to be carried.

Robie

I use 5 gallon buckets with the stackable tray inserts a lot. Right now, with the 10' trailer, I can line 5 up against the right side (where the door is) and bungee them to the wall.
With my next trailer, I plan on making a simple shelf system to hold 15 buckets...3 rows of 5, and simply using bungees to keep them in place.
I like the stackable trays in the buckets. I do a little bit of everything and they allow me to keep plumbing, electrical, screws, bolts, etc, seperate but together. If I need drywall screws, I grab the bucket and take it where needed.

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If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters. ~Alan Simpson

RussellF

I've got the same trailer(6'x12'), but it has the rounded nose on the front.....I just built some shelves in it along both walls and later added some steel supports attached to the ceiling to leave one side so that I could carry a small amount of 4'x8' stock on one side if I needed to. I can't show you any pictures because it is such a mess...... I do know where just about everything is though.

Russ