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Old 05-21-2009, 07:58 PM   #1
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Laser levels

I'm considering buying one, the rotating type that sit on a tripod. I'd be using it for wainscoting, chair rail, casing headers, etc. If it can mark 75-100' away that should be plenty. Any recommendations? I hate to spend a fortune on one but I don't want junk either.

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Old 05-21-2009, 09:07 PM   #2
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I would recommend PLS Laser systems. They have a wide variety of lasers and they are very durable.

www.plslaser.com
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Old 05-21-2009, 09:09 PM   #3
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spend the money for a self leveling. you will regret not doing this the first time someone kicks the tripod and you did not notice it.
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Old 05-21-2009, 10:58 PM   #4
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If you are going to use it up to 100 ft, you will want a good one.

Low to mid range lasers will have a accuracy of 1/4" at 100 ft or worse, mid range will have a accuracy of 3/32" to 1/8", upper range models will have a accuracy of 1/16" or better at 100 ft.

PLS makes some good interesting lasers, but even their best rotary only has a accuracy of 3/32" and costs over $1000, not a good deal.

So you have to decide what kind of accuracy you can live with, as for me I cannot live with less than 1/16th in 100 ft.

Do you want a visible beam or will a detector be good enough, or something that may be visible in darker light but will need a detector in bright light?

I would recommend you look at the rotary lasers at Engineers Supply, and figure what you need for price and accuracy. They have just about the best prices on the net and I have bought 2 rotarys from them in the last couple of years.

http://www.engineersupply.com/rotary-laser-levels.aspx
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Old 05-21-2009, 11:13 PM   #5
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I second the idea on the self leveling choice. That sounds like really good advice. I personally have never used one, but I do know how accidents happen all around our work areas. Get a good one that's extra durable.
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Old 05-22-2009, 07:42 AM   #6
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I have used a bunch of different rotaries when I worked for a company that did acoustical ceilings in commercial jobs. I have used topcon, hilti, and pls. I have used the self leveling and non self leveling ones. My personal favorite is the topcon self leveling, but it comes with a high price tag. When I started my business I bought a topcon self leveler and love it. I use it for all the things you mentioned and alot more. They are wonderful for building soffits in basements. You will use it alot more than you think. Someone mentioned self leveling so it doesn't shot a beam that is off if someone bumps it but all the non self levelers I have used will flash and not rotate so you know it is out of level. But it is a real pain if you are 100 ft away and have to walk over to adjust it so if you can afford it get a self leveler. If you get one that can shoot a line on it's side you can lay out walls, and if you get one that will shoot off level you can grade yards real easy. I can tell you that if you buy anything cheap it will not last on the job site and will not stay calibrated. The brands I saw on the big commercial jobs which were supplied by the company so alot of the guys don't care how they get treated, were topcon and hilti and they held up good to the abuse.
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Old 05-22-2009, 06:06 PM   #7
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Excellent advice, thanks. Today I was installing 1x4 trim near the top of the walls in an open-ceiling restaurant... throwing the chalk line around and over beams and conduits... not fun. Laser would've been a hell of a timesaver. I am looking for a visible one Kgmz, and if the cheaper models have that much innacuracy at a distance I guess I better spend the coin on a quality one. Thanks for the links and info!
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Old 05-22-2009, 07:07 PM   #8
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I guess it would depend on the situation, but if someone kicks the tripod, would it really matter if you have one that self levels or not? Wouldn't it have a different reading (depending on the severity of the kick) than the one you had set up? In other words, what you thought was the correct measurement, now isn't.
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Old 05-22-2009, 08:29 PM   #9
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I guess it would depend on the situation, but if someone kicks the tripod, would it really matter if you have one that self levels or not? Wouldn't it have a different reading (depending on the severity of the kick) than the one you had set up? In other words, what you thought was the correct measurement, now isn't.
Absolutely. Great point. Don't the autolevels have a warning signal for this situation?
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Old 05-22-2009, 08:42 PM   #10
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Auto level is still way easier to reset to previous mark; or just take a new measurement off the new level line.
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Old 05-22-2009, 08:59 PM   #11
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They're still not good enough for me + they're hard to see if the building is open like most here in SoFL.

+/- 1/4-1/8" may be good for shell builders, not so great for finish carpenters or cabinet installers. I've tried a few of them (worked from the top of the fuzzy line) and went back to the old methods.
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Old 05-22-2009, 09:05 PM   #12
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Yes the self leveling models have a warning, and they don't start self leveling again after being bumped, etc. You have to reset them.

Sometimes the will stop not with a bump but from some kind of vibration like a dozer or something driving by it, etc. On my laser this a call a Anti Drift System, and when activated a light will blink or the laser beam will blink on the other model.

I have 4 lasers total, a pipe laser and 3 rotarys a Spectra Precision, and 2 CST Bergers.

The CST Bergers are my newest 2 lasers, and I bought them with what they call a Package with all accessories. Included are a detector, tripod, rod, remote control, V-mount (interior wall mount), charger, targets, and red glasses (so you can see the beam inside in bright light conditions). They both have a accuracy of 1/16th in 100 ft., a 2000 and 2800 ft range, dual slope capable, laydown capable, and have a verticle plumb beam.

They are as accurate as my Spectra Precision, and a Leica Rugby. I tested and compared with both of these, and the Leica was a loaner when my Spectra was in the shop. But they are less than half the price with the same or better specs and more accessories included, and is why I bought them.


CST Berger ALGR PKG $1345.00
http://www.engineersupply.com/cst-be...7-algrpkg.aspx

CST Berger LM800 PKG $1170.00
http://www.engineersupply.com/cst-be...-lm800pkg.aspx


The prices have gone up since I bought them, but are still less than half of a comparable Spectra Precision or Leica which are about $2500 and only come with a detector.
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Old 05-22-2009, 11:23 PM   #13
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I have used my PLS 360 and Pls 180 for a ton of cabinet work to level all common bases and done cab install's. Mainly used for panelling and wainscotting and have nothing but good things to say about them... But to each there own, I could never replace my lasers now that I use them day in day out. Such a time saver and become cost effecient.
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Old 05-23-2009, 12:32 AM   #14
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Guys all this talk about being within 1/16" in 100' and anything less is unacceptable. The friggin earth curves almost as much and a level line will follow the curvature of the earth. Who on this planet will notice something that is out of level by more than 1/4" in 100 feet. I will bet that I could take all of you and not a single one of you could tell me if something is out by that much without the precision instruments. Lets say that a laser is good to within 1/4" in 100 feet. Ok now we are leveling cabinets in a 20x20 kitchen Even at this tremendously innacurate (So you say) rate The laser woul be out of level over the range given on 1/125 of an inch. Who the ***** will ever notice or even be able to detect something that close.
And for all of yu that need 1/16" in 200 feet you are out of level already just from the curvature of the earth. A LEVEL LINE IS NOT STRAIGHT
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Old 05-23-2009, 02:29 PM   #15
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Why the 1/16th in 100 ft matters to me is I use these lasers outside at ranges up to 1500 ft. At these distances it makes a big difference.

1/16" X 15 = 15/16"

1/4" X 15 = 3 3/4"

And yes the earth does curve at about 1/8" per 100 ft. But if you are building a 400 ft. building you are going to build it straight and not with a 1/2" curve in it, Right.

So the term level here doesn't mean level with the earth but a straight line.
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Old 05-23-2009, 02:33 PM   #16
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Why the 1/16th in 100 ft matters to me is I use these lasers outside at ranges up to 1500 ft. At these distances it makes a big difference.

1/16" X 15 = 15/16"

1/4" X 15 = 3 3/4"

And yes the earth does curve at about 1/8" per 100 ft. But if you are building a 400 ft. building you are going to build it straight and not with a 1/2" curve in it, Right.

So the term level here doesn't mean level with the earth but a straight line.
I had a feeling that post would get a rise out of someone.
The laser line may be out of level but it is still a straight line.
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Old 05-23-2009, 04:46 PM   #17
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but what good is a straight line if it's not level?
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Old 05-23-2009, 05:31 PM   #18
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for the vast majority of us here 1/16" per 100 feet is more than enough accuracy. The OP wanted advise because he is using to install chair rail and cabinets possibly. Most of the rooms are not that big. I cannot think of any room that is that long that would require chair rail. The most range that he will most likely require is 25 feet. Even at 1/8 inch in 100 feet that means an inaccuracy of 1/32" at the longest range. Most floors etc are not even close to that accurate and he would be wasting his money on anything more. Keep in mind the end use here
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Old 05-26-2009, 07:14 PM   #19
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I guess it would depend on the situation, but if someone kicks the tripod, would it really matter if you have one that self levels or not? Wouldn't it have a different reading (depending on the severity of the kick) than the one you had set up? In other words, what you thought was the correct measurement, now isn't.
no the one i have shut off if that happened mine is a laser mark lmh
a very good unit for under $1000
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:57 PM   #20
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I like the Hilti one with the card. It will follow you around the room and you can make it stop or bounce it around the room.
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