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Old 05-22-2009, 01:48 PM   #81
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Looks good, I only have 1 suggestion. You might want to even out the load a little or make really slow right turns.

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Old 05-27-2009, 08:20 PM   #82
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New Trailer

Here is the new rig getting it ready for service.
Tailer is 8'6"wide 7' 6" high and 16' long plus the wedge nose.
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job-site-trailers-show-off-your-set-ups-027.jpg   job-site-trailers-show-off-your-set-ups-028.jpg   job-site-trailers-show-off-your-set-ups-029.jpg  
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Old 05-28-2009, 07:09 PM   #83
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That is one nice looking blank canvas! Nice start mate.
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Old 05-28-2009, 08:18 PM   #84
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Why the ramp door? I just installed one of those heaters in mine that are intended to go into a 2x4 wall. Has thermostate and I plug it into a power bar, so I can't blow the customers' breaker. I know it's too early for heater, just getting ready. Trailer looks good!
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Old 05-28-2009, 08:54 PM   #85
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Why the ramp door? I just installed one of those heaters in mine that are intended to go into a 2x4 wall. Has thermostate and I plug it into a power bar, so I can't blow the customers' breaker. I know it's too early for heater, just getting ready. Trailer looks good!
Why would you get a trailer without a ramp door?
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Old 05-29-2009, 05:45 PM   #86
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Why would you get a trailer without a ramp door?
I would say because a ramp door has more maintenance issues. My ramp door is operating on 2 out of 3 hinges... and the flip down transition is warping and cracking, and the piano hinges connecting it seem like they may be the next to go. My trailer's fairly new, 20X8.5 Haulmark 2007.
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Old 05-29-2009, 08:27 PM   #87
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Why the ramp door? I just installed one of those heaters in mine that are intended to go into a 2x4 wall. Has thermostate and I plug it into a power bar, so I can't blow the customers' breaker. I know it's too early for heater, just getting ready. Trailer looks good!
I went with the ramp because i am tired of climbing in and out of the trailer with tools and products all day long.
This trailer I bought and set up specifically for window and door installations. That is also why I want to keep it empty.
The right hand side has e-track mounted to the wall for strapping windows to the wall.
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:02 PM   #88
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I went with the ramp because i am tired of climbing in and out of the trailer with tools and products all day long.
This trailer I bought and set up specifically for window and door installations. That is also why I want to keep it empty.
The right hand side has e-track mounted to the wall for strapping windows to the wall.
I gotcha, carrying windows without tripping, smooth in and out. Good idea.
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:22 PM   #89
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My setup, still a work in progress tho...
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Old 06-18-2009, 01:28 PM   #90
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I was wondering how this would work, let me know what you guys think or if you have tried it. Framing up 2x3 exterior walls with plywood roof supports then taking it and having the whole interior spray foamed. Putting outlets in the wall then covering with 1/2 inch plywood. It gets mighty cold in the winter in NE and I hate having my tools subjected to subzero temperatures at night (split o-rings are trouble). I could run a small electric heater at night/weekends to keep the temp above freezing. Any thoughts.

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Old 06-18-2009, 03:31 PM   #91
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Why not pull down the ply on the walls and spray foam that space. I know it is only 1 1/2" but, that is better than nothing.
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Old 06-18-2009, 07:12 PM   #92
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I'm talking about have a bare interior trailer to start with. Spray foam on the exterior sheet metal skin.
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Old 06-18-2009, 07:32 PM   #93
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Why not pull down the ply on the walls and spray foam that space. I know it is only 1 1/2" but, that is better than nothing.


You ready to sell that trailer yet?
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Old 06-18-2009, 07:54 PM   #94
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You ready to sell that trailer yet?

Not yet, still have a few things to do to it yet.
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Old 06-19-2009, 09:36 AM   #95
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How do you guys store the longer tools? Like crowbars breaker bars t sqaures etc.... I just can't seam to find a good way. Right now they are bungy corded in a corner but this method sucks. The bottum slides out and they fall over or the bungy comes off. I was thinking maybe some 3" pvc tubes? IDK
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Old 06-19-2009, 06:48 PM   #96
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How do you guys store the longer tools? Like crowbars breaker bars t sqaures etc.... I just can't seam to find a good way. Right now they are bungy corded in a corner but this method sucks. The bottum slides out and they fall over or the bungy comes off. I was thinking maybe some 3" pvc tubes? IDK
I use an old wooden nail barrel. It's about 14" wide and 32" tall. Looks cool too. My long stuff, like an 8' level is on the top shelf.
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Old 06-19-2009, 09:52 PM   #97
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How do you guys store the longer tools? Like crowbars breaker bars t sqaures etc.... I just can't seam to find a good way. Right now they are bungy corded in a corner but this method sucks. The bottum slides out and they fall over or the bungy comes off. I was thinking maybe some 3" pvc tubes? IDK

If you look at my picture of my trailer, it's up a couple of posts, you will see the gray metal shelf on the right side, there is a little square yellow box on it, I slide my t square on that shelf behind that and it never moves.
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:47 PM   #98
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I was wondering how this would work, let me know what you guys think or if you have tried it. Framing up 2x3 exterior walls with plywood roof supports then taking it and having the whole interior spray foamed. Putting outlets in the wall then covering with 1/2 inch plywood. It gets mighty cold in the winter in NE and I hate having my tools subjected to subzero temperatures at night (split o-rings are trouble). I could run a small electric heater at night/weekends to keep the temp above freezing. Any thoughts.
I've got an electric heater in mine. Has it's own thermostat and is plugged into a power bar with built in breaker. Plug this into the customers home when on the job ( the breaker is so I don't blow their fuse ) At night I plug it in at home.
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Old 08-29-2009, 11:53 AM   #99
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Why would you get a trailer without a ramp door?
Ramp door pitfalls

You lose approx 50 sf of wall storage
When it snows, you have to shovel off the ramp or it all goes inside.
The cables are a trip hazard and the pulleys take up room over the door opening.
You can't back a ramp door as close to a doorway as you can with cargo doors.
Ramp doors are for landscapers with lawnmowers

Cargo doors

Fold back and lock out of the way.
Hang cords, brooms & shovels for easy access without having to go inside.
Walk up to the opening and access reachable items without having to walk the ramp.
Leave a door open if you have to transport extra long materials.
Watertight.

Just my opinion.

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Old 08-29-2009, 12:19 PM   #100
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You tell that to my big arse saws on stands with wheels.

I went to a trailer that is 8x20 and a full 7' tall ramp door.
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