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05-22-2009, 01:48 PM
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#81
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King Nothing
Trade:
Remodeler/Builder
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Feasterville, Pa.
Posts: 979
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Looks good, I only have 1 suggestion. You might want to even out the load a little or make really slow right turns.
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05-27-2009, 08:20 PM
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#82
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Member
Trade:
Renovation contractor, finish carpenter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Windsor Ontario Canada
Posts: 42
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New Trailer
Here is the new rig getting it ready for service.
Tailer is 8'6"wide 7' 6" high and 16' long plus the wedge nose.
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05-28-2009, 07:09 PM
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#83
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Pro
Trade:
Exterior Finishing
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 170
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That is one nice looking blank canvas! Nice start mate.
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05-28-2009, 08:18 PM
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#84
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Pro
Trade:
carpenter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Kirkfield,Ontario, Canada
Posts: 492
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Why the ramp door? I just installed one of those heaters in mine that are intended to go into a 2x4 wall. Has thermostate and I plug it into a power bar, so I can't blow the customers' breaker. I know it's too early for heater, just getting ready. Trailer looks good!
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05-28-2009, 08:54 PM
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#85
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Pro
Trade:
Sure, what you got?
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Auburn Indiana
Posts: 3,893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katoman
Why the ramp door? I just installed one of those heaters in mine that are intended to go into a 2x4 wall. Has thermostate and I plug it into a power bar, so I can't blow the customers' breaker. I know it's too early for heater, just getting ready. Trailer looks good! 
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Why would you get a trailer without a ramp door?
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05-29-2009, 05:45 PM
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#86
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Pro
Trade:
Exterior Finishing
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
Why would you get a trailer without a ramp door?
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I would say because a ramp door has more maintenance issues. My ramp door is operating on 2 out of 3 hinges... and the flip down transition is warping and cracking, and the piano hinges connecting it seem like they may be the next to go. My trailer's fairly new, 20X8.5 Haulmark 2007.
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05-29-2009, 08:27 PM
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#87
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Member
Trade:
Renovation contractor, finish carpenter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Windsor Ontario Canada
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katoman
Why the ramp door? I just installed one of those heaters in mine that are intended to go into a 2x4 wall. Has thermostate and I plug it into a power bar, so I can't blow the customers' breaker. I know it's too early for heater, just getting ready. Trailer looks good! 
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I went with the ramp because i am tired of climbing in and out of the trailer with tools and products all day long.
This trailer I bought and set up specifically for window and door installations. That is also why I want to keep it empty.
The right hand side has e-track mounted to the wall for strapping windows to the wall.
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06-17-2009, 09:02 PM
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#88
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Pro
Trade:
carpenter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Kirkfield,Ontario, Canada
Posts: 492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashcon
I went with the ramp because i am tired of climbing in and out of the trailer with tools and products all day long.
This trailer I bought and set up specifically for window and door installations. That is also why I want to keep it empty.
The right hand side has e-track mounted to the wall for strapping windows to the wall. 
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I gotcha, carrying windows without tripping, smooth in and out. Good idea.
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06-17-2009, 09:22 PM
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#89
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Official CT Greeter!
Trade:
General Construction
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Canton IL
Posts: 590
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My setup, still a work in progress tho...
__________________
"Your problem does not constitute an emergency on my part"
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06-18-2009, 01:28 PM
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#90
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Pro
Trade:
Log Home Construction
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 226
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I was wondering how this would work, let me know what you guys think or if you have tried it. Framing up 2x3 exterior walls with plywood roof supports then taking it and having the whole interior spray foamed. Putting outlets in the wall then covering with 1/2 inch plywood. It gets mighty cold in the winter in NE and I hate having my tools subjected to subzero temperatures at night (split o-rings are trouble). I could run a small electric heater at night/weekends to keep the temp above freezing. Any thoughts.
Last edited by DrewD; 06-18-2009 at 01:35 PM.
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06-18-2009, 03:31 PM
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#91
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Pro
Trade:
Sure, what you got?
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Auburn Indiana
Posts: 3,893
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Why not pull down the ply on the walls and spray foam that space. I know it is only 1 1/2" but, that is better than nothing.
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06-18-2009, 07:12 PM
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#92
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Pro
Trade:
Log Home Construction
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 226
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I'm talking about have a bare interior trailer to start with. Spray foam on the exterior sheet metal skin.
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06-18-2009, 07:32 PM
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#93
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Official CT Greeter!
Trade:
General Construction
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Canton IL
Posts: 590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
Why not pull down the ply on the walls and spray foam that space. I know it is only 1 1/2" but, that is better than nothing.
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You ready to sell that trailer yet?
__________________
"Your problem does not constitute an emergency on my part"
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06-18-2009, 07:54 PM
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#94
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Pro
Trade:
Sure, what you got?
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Auburn Indiana
Posts: 3,893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CScalf
You ready to sell that trailer yet?
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Not yet, still have a few things to do to it yet.
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06-19-2009, 09:36 AM
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#95
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........
Trade:
Construction, siding, windows & doors
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 316
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How do you guys store the longer tools? Like crowbars breaker bars t sqaures etc.... I just can't seam to find a good way. Right now they are bungy corded in a corner but this method sucks. The bottum slides out and they fall over or the bungy comes off. I was thinking maybe some 3" pvc tubes? IDK
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06-19-2009, 06:48 PM
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#96
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Pro
Trade:
carpenter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Kirkfield,Ontario, Canada
Posts: 492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole82
How do you guys store the longer tools? Like crowbars breaker bars t sqaures etc.... I just can't seam to find a good way. Right now they are bungy corded in a corner but this method sucks. The bottum slides out and they fall over or the bungy comes off. I was thinking maybe some 3" pvc tubes? IDK
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I use an old wooden nail barrel. It's about 14" wide and 32" tall. Looks cool too. My long stuff, like an 8' level is on the top shelf.
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06-19-2009, 09:52 PM
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#97
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Official CT Greeter!
Trade:
General Construction
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Canton IL
Posts: 590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole82
How do you guys store the longer tools? Like crowbars breaker bars t sqaures etc.... I just can't seam to find a good way. Right now they are bungy corded in a corner but this method sucks. The bottum slides out and they fall over or the bungy comes off. I was thinking maybe some 3" pvc tubes? IDK
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If you look at my picture of my trailer, it's up a couple of posts, you will see the gray metal shelf on the right side, there is a little square yellow box on it, I slide my t square on that shelf behind that and it never moves.
__________________
"Your problem does not constitute an emergency on my part"
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06-20-2009, 09:47 PM
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#98
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Pro
Trade:
carpenter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Kirkfield,Ontario, Canada
Posts: 492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewD
I was wondering how this would work, let me know what you guys think or if you have tried it. Framing up 2x3 exterior walls with plywood roof supports then taking it and having the whole interior spray foamed. Putting outlets in the wall then covering with 1/2 inch plywood. It gets mighty cold in the winter in NE and I hate having my tools subjected to subzero temperatures at night (split o-rings are trouble). I could run a small electric heater at night/weekends to keep the temp above freezing. Any thoughts.
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I've got an electric heater in mine. Has it's own thermostat and is plugged into a power bar with built in breaker. Plug this into the customers home when on the job ( the breaker is so I don't blow their fuse ) At night I plug it in at home.
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08-29-2009, 11:53 AM
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#99
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling contractor
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc.
Why would you get a trailer without a ramp door?
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Ramp door pitfalls
You lose approx 50 sf of wall storage
When it snows, you have to shovel off the ramp or it all goes inside.
The cables are a trip hazard and the pulleys take up room over the door opening.
You can't back a ramp door as close to a doorway as you can with cargo doors.
Ramp doors are for landscapers with lawnmowers
Cargo doors
Fold back and lock out of the way.
Hang cords, brooms & shovels for easy access without having to go inside.
Walk up to the opening and access reachable items without having to walk the ramp.
Leave a door open if you have to transport extra long materials.
Watertight.
Just my opinion.
__________________
Remodeler in Maine & Vermont
Finish carpenter
Been doin' this stuff for a long time.................
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08-29-2009, 12:19 PM
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#100
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Pro
Trade:
Sure, what you got?
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Auburn Indiana
Posts: 3,893
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You tell that to my big arse saws on stands with wheels.
I went to a trailer that is 8x20 and a full 7' tall ramp door.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus Dering
It may be just a gateway tool to the hard stuff. Be careful 
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