Fein Multimaster

jcalvin

Maybe I should give a little explanation. Since the only "tight spot" saw I have is a sawzall, I tend to use it to cut things that may be of questionable nature. I have actually got pretty good with a sawzall over the years and only tend to completely ruin everything within 1/2 of my intended cut line instead of within the 1" perimeter. As most any guy that uses one often, I can get downright accurate with mine. It would just be nice to have a saw that is designed to make the finer detail cuts without raising the brows of the HO.

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Cal


You hired WHO

plazaman

just purchased the multimaster few weeks ago, great tool, we found many uses for it already.

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Westchester Remodeling Contractor
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Quiglag

More like black with some green block festool lettering.

My opinion is to get one of the cheaper models if you are only going to use it a few times a year. I believe the SonicCrafter has the same Watts as the MM, so it should have enough power.

If you are going to use it everyday the MM is the only model with years of proven durability.

rayh78

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthr...08&type=thread

comparison review on the two

JumboJack

The HF one comes with extra brushes.

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in texas with framing and cornish people will do it for 3.00 a foot. What do yall think about that? Just laber

Winchester

Electrician scored some high end cabinets and stainless aplliances from a kitchen remodel for people who already had a new kitchen.

Helping him put them in his place I trimmed part of some of the cabinets using a sawzall and nobody can tell

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Ryan

tinner666

I have a MM and mostly use the metal/wood blades.

I used mine twice doing reno to cut into existing moldings at a 45 degree bevel (Scarf) angle. Laid out the cut, held steady and easy. After the new walls were up, or changed, I was able to take the piece of cut-off, and hold it against the new trim wood, lay the blade against the cut, and copied it. Got a perfect fitting scarf each time.
Beat tearing down the molding and starting over or trying to save it.

Not to mention all the other uses I've found.

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Frank Slate Roof Repairs, Richmond, Va.

TempestV

exactly- there are times when the multimaster is useful, and times when it isn't. However, when it's useful, it's really useful.

jcalvin

looking at the rockwell now. there is a difference in the kits based mainly on the bits and attachments. I would personally rather hand pick the bits I need rather than buy 30 sanding pads I may never use. What are the blades that you use the most of. Is there any that you just never use?

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Cal


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neolitic

Whatever you wind up with,
you're gonna owe us a review.

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Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

jcalvin

Will do. Only bad thing is I can only get one, so I won't be able to compare it to anything.

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Cal


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TempestV

It depends what you are using it for. For exampe, my dad never uses the sanding pad on his, however, when I'm doing log work, I use the sanding pad for mine quit regularly, as well as the little finger sanding pad for getting into tight areas. However, I would say that the most important blades to have would be the 1 1/2" square ended blades. That the part that makes the detail saw so different from everything else out there.

some of the other stuff that you can get for it that might be useful are:
Profile sanding kit (Have it, used it twice. Make sure to turn down the tool before running it, or the little rubber block will go flying)
Blades for tile or grout
Carbide rasps (haven't tried one, but I think I need to)
Wide blades (cost way more and don't seem to be that great)
really really narrow blades (Haven't tried one, but I think I have need for one)
Scrapers
Knives for foam, carpet, ect
Files (maybe if you are doing a lot of intricate metal work?)

gallerytungsten

For any kind of flush cutting in tight places, it's the King.

jcalvin

Just bought a Rockwell Sonic Crafter from Amazon.com. If you have never used Amazon, try them. They have free shipping on most items that normally arrive in a couple days. Just ordered this one and shipped it for free and it is scheduled to arrive March 31. They are almost never late.

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Cal


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BACKWOODS

I bought the HF knockoff Thursday, Used it to scrape old caulk yesterday and sawed a few test cuts.
For $39 it is a keeper

andrews

I find that the e-cut blade on the MM wants to wander a bit on longer cuts in wood or drywall. I also tried the precision e-cut that is somewhat fatter and thicker but I still get the same effect.

Is it better to mount the blade at an angle instead of straight on or hold the tool a particular way.

Jason Whipple

Could be that you're just putting to much pressure on it. It will wander if you rush it.

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Jason E Whipple, General Manager
Historic House Restoration, Cincinnati, Ohio
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andrews

>> Could be that you're just putting to much pressure on it. It will wander if you rush it.



You couldn't be more right about that! I found that when I forced this thing it would make whatever I was cutting vibrate like crazy (and not cut anything usually burning the material) or send me off course.

So, If I cup one hand over the cast metal part (front) nearly touching the blade, hold it firm but let the blade do the cutting, you can really get this thing to glide smoothly.

sorethumbs

I'd really like to know if the dremal blades, scrapes, and sanding pads will work on the Harbor Freight tool. anyone know?

katoman

I've got the fein supercut, has over twice the power of the mm. I know it's a lot of money, but wouldn't trade it. Can't begin to list all the cuts I use it for in renovating.