Brad Vs. Pin Nailer

 
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Old 06-06-2006, 08:58 PM   #1
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Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


I have a 18ga brad nailer and have been looking at a pinner after someone told me you would not have to putty your holes on stained shoe moulding using a pinner. Any truth to this what else are you guys using pinners with 23ga headless pins. Thanks.
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Old 06-07-2006, 07:22 AM   #2
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


Quote:
Originally Posted by gtdail
I have a 18ga brad nailer and have been looking at a pinner after someone told me you would not have to putty your holes on stained shoe moulding using a pinner. Any truth to this what else are you guys using pinners with 23ga headless pins. Thanks.
I would not use a pinner on shoe moulding, I don't think they will hold well enough. I use it mainly (at the job site) to stitch glued joints on prefinished stained materials where the only option is to nail in visible areas. I still make one pass over the holes, if I can find them, with a fill stick. If you don't, and you look at it from the exact perfect angle, at the right time of day with the sun to your back, you will see the pin, a tiny shiny dot. Worth every penny in my opinion.

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Old 06-08-2006, 03:48 PM   #3
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


I own both, a brad and a pin. A pin gun is not a substitute for the brad gun. Your not going to get the long lasting tight hold with the pin or any support. I do very fine work with alot of small pieces on mantles, cabinets and what ever else. I use it mainly for miters with glue. And when I have to use it for anything else I use plenty of glue. But to answer your question it depends what kind of finish is going to be used. Latex will cover it right up. Conversion varnish you might have to use a little spackle. And for stain, if you use a light stain you'll see a little dark dot. With a dark stain your golden. Depending on what tpye of wood your using try to hit the grains. And dont push the pin gun to hard, lighty hold it on the wood. Reason being there is no safety or rubber on the end so you have nothing to protect the wood you can easily dent your wood.
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Old 06-09-2006, 10:21 AM   #4
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


Nother of the same opinion. Pins work great for holding miters until glue dries, and thin detail moldings-use it alot on dental moldings-but in no way sufficent for any type of casing/base applications.

Your 18ga brad is about right since it leaves a very small hole behind once you nail it, my paslode is a 16ga and since I bought the cordless compressor and 18ga brad gun I rarely use the paslode anymore for finish work since it leaves a big hole behind that is easily detectable even with color matched putty..the 18ga blends in quite well on grainey lumber
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Old 02-19-2008, 12:03 PM   #5
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


The micropinner works well to pin your miters after you glue them.

I also nail all of my moulding with the micropinner first just in case I have to adjust something for some reason then I go back once finished and nail my cabinet crown off with the brad nailer accordingly!
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Old 02-19-2008, 12:45 PM   #6
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


As already stated, a pin nailer works for light molding. Especially useful for holding corners that are glued, Narrow or light trim work on furniture, built-ins, cabinet molding, etc.
It is not a replacement for a brad nailer.
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Old 02-19-2008, 01:16 PM   #7
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


A pinner without a safety is also really good at getting your helpers to keep moving fast. A couple of shots in the ass from 10 feet away and they get the "point" real fast!
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Old 02-19-2008, 08:24 PM   #8
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


I second Greg's motion, I like to shoot unruly electricians with them.

One additional piece of info...Woodcraft sells a 21 guague pinner that you can get pins with or without heads for.

I've experimented with using 23 guage pinner to put hardwood crown on cabinets with no other fastener other than going back and running a bead of adhesive on the backside of the crown where it meets the cabinet. Method works out well although going back to run the adhesive is arguably as much trouble as filling holes of 18 guage nails.

Once you own a 23 guage pinner you will never do without one.

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Last edited by orson; 04-13-2008 at 09:02 PM.
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Old 02-19-2008, 09:18 PM   #9
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


Quote:
Originally Posted by orson View Post

Once you own a 23 guage pinner you will never do without one.

Yes....I concur!
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Old 02-20-2008, 06:02 AM   #10
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


I HIGHLY recommend a Grex gun. Everything said here is true but believe me, you will use this thing all the time if you trim, build or hang cabinets, mantles, stairs etc. It's my favorite air tool.
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Old 02-20-2008, 06:46 AM   #11
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


Porter Cable came out with a 3 gun set which includes a Pin nailer (23 gauge), Brader, crown stapler and pancake compressor. I think the whole set is 199.00 I bought the pin nailer separate for a 100 bucks out of the set. I love that little nailer, great for moulding returns etc. like u guys have said. I thought it was a great deal for 100 bucks. My buddy bought his pinner from some specialty shop for $450!!!
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Old 03-09-2008, 02:44 PM   #12
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


Throw some glue behind it, and you can use a 23ga, It would still probably save you the time of filling the nail holes.
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:38 PM   #13
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


I have a Grex and Porter Cable Pin nailer and I like the way the porter cable feels much better. I paid twice as much for the grex and It never gets used.
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:07 PM   #14
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


Quote:
Originally Posted by y0manda View Post
... I paid twice as much for the grex and It never gets used.
Then sell it to me.
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Old 04-06-2008, 03:02 AM   #15
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Re: Brad Vs. Pin Nailer


I have both and they both have different uses. the pinner is great for holding corners together in crown along with 2p10, cabinet doors to help hold the joint while glue dries etc.

I have the grex and really like it. i went with the one that shots 1 3/8, larger than that I fell is not worth it. stick with 18g

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