Board bender - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

crovello · 11-04-2009, 08:22 PM

Every time I install a deck with this tool I wonder how I ever got by without it. Forcing a bent piece Ipe into place is no easy task without this tool. This one is the Board Bender by Craftsman.

I used to have one that worked better than this one but it has gone missing. I can not remember the brand or name of the other one so I don't know how to replace it. It does not seam like anything local yards cary. Do you guys have one that works well for you? Who sells them?

rselectric1 · 11-04-2009, 08:30 PM

Why can't I ever invent things like that. I'm still working on the board stretcher.

carpentershane · 11-04-2009, 09:30 PM

I use a bowrench, it works pretty well and you can use it to push/pull.
Here is a link:

http://www.amazon.com/Cepco-Tool-BW-...7387956&sr=8-1

You might also consider the tiger jaw, it is just being manufactured, I am still waiting for my local yard to bring it in.

http://www.deckfastener.com/product_deck_jaws.asp

stp57 · 11-04-2009, 09:31 PM

Crovello,
Got any photos of your finished deck? This one looks interesting.
Steve

Quote:

Originally Posted by crovello

Every time I install a deck with this tool I wonder how I ever got by without it. Forcing a bent piece Ipe into place is no easy task without this tool. This one is the Board Bender by Craftsman.
Attachment 24860

I used to have one that worked better than this one but it has gone missing. I can not remember the brand or name of the other one so I don't know how to replace it. It does not seam like anything local yards cary. Do you guys have one that works well for you? Who sells them?

carpentershane · 11-04-2009, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stp57

Crovello,
Got any photos of your finished deck? This one looks interesting.
Steve

ditto

Just out of curiosity, it looks like the deck is framed out of untreated lumber?

crovello · 11-05-2009, 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stp57

Crovello,
Got any photos of your finished deck? This one looks interesting.
Steve

I just finished installing the decking this week. I have a long way to go before this deck is completed on this project. The ballustrade on this deck is actually a 30" shingled wall with 2" and 5" alternating courses, a 3" kick out at the bottom and build outs at every post that have to be weaved around.

A good portion of the deck will be screened in and have a wood burning fireplace in it. The fireplace has a ton of detail. The mason will be scratching his head on this one. Can't wait to see it completed.

There is also some curved sections to match the house above.

I will post more pictures when I am further along.

Dave

crovello · 11-05-2009, 05:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carpentershane

ditto

Just out of curiosity, it looks like the deck is framed out of untreated lumber?

Everything is framed with PT. I am not sure why it does not look like that in the photos.

stp57 · 11-05-2009, 08:02 AM

That is some great looking decking. I was reading an Ipe fact sheet:
http://www.woodsthebest.com/ipe_decking/ipe-wood.htm
In it they mention how difficult it is to bend. How did you curve the steps?
They also talk about when Ipe warps it can pull the screws right out the treated stringers. Wow! It gives alot of warnings about the yellow dust on it. What has been your experience with Ipe?
Steve

XanadooLTD · 11-05-2009, 09:21 AM

PT may have come from indoor lumber yard where it always has a much lighter shade.

neolitic · 11-05-2009, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XanadooLTD

PT may have come from indoor lumber yard where it always has a much lighter shade.

Likely the newer Micronized Copper.
It's much lighter color, sometimes I
have to keep looking at the end tags
to make sure it's the right stuff.

crovello · 11-05-2009, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stp57

That is some great looking decking. I was reading an Ipe fact sheet:
http://www.woodsthebest.com/ipe_decking/ipe-wood.htm
In it they mention how difficult it is to bend. How did you curve the steps?
They also talk about when Ipe warps it can pull the screws right out the treated stringers. Wow! It gives alot of warnings about the yellow dust on it. What has been your experience with Ipe?
Steve

It has become the most common decking for my projects in the last few years. It makes a nice looking deck whether you let it go grey natually or give it a coat of Penefin. It is very rot resistant and wears like iron. Those are the good attributes.

stp57 · 11-05-2009, 08:55 PM

The steps are composite, right?
Steve

Quote:

Originally Posted by crovello

It has become the most common decking for my projects in the last few years. It makes a nice looking deck whether you let it go grey natually or give it a coat of Penefin. It is very rot resistant and wears like iron. Those are the good attributes.

neolitic · 11-05-2009, 09:42 PM

Looks like he cut ¾" rips and
laminated them.

crovello · 11-06-2009, 04:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by neolitic

Looks like he cut ¾" rips and
laminated them.

I first tried bending Ipe. I steamed it for two hours and it did nothing to make it pliable. I then laminated Ipe cutting it into narrow strips so it would bend but the glue joints did not hold well and spring back was very bad. From what I have read Ipe just does not glue well. So as a last resort I laminated the steps out of mahogany. The strips are just shy of 3/4" each and it is glued with West System epoxy.

Some of the bad things about Ipe.
It weighs I feakin ton

It is brutal on tools. The yellow dust does get all over you. I don't know how harmful it is to people but it does seam to clog up my tools. I am forever blowing the dust out of my plate joiners so it will slide in and out.

It will not hold well with glue

It is hard as a rock, forget nailing or screwing without drilling. If you are near a board end and you drill a pilot hole that is much smaller than your nail or screw, expect it to split.

I normally don't have to predrill when using Ebtys but with Ipe you do. (if you want any holding power)

It is not available in all sizes. (at least in my area)
1" x 4" or 6"
5/6"x4", 6" and if your lucky you may find 8" ( I have never used 8" but man that must be heavy)

crovello · 11-06-2009, 05:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carpentershane

I use a bowrench, it works pretty well and you can use it to push/pull.
Here is a link:

http://www.amazon.com/Cepco-Tool-BW-...7387956&sr=8-1

You might also consider the tiger jaw, it is just being manufactured, I am still waiting for my local yard to bring it in.

http://www.deckfastener.com/product_deck_jaws.asp

BTW I liked the first link, The one that went missing on me was a Bowrench (thanks for jogging my memory). I guess it was the older model.

The second link for the deck jaws does not look that usefull. I can't see that system working with anything other than composite decking and only on basic straight decks. If you had to fit boards together with miters(like you would have to do with a deck that jogs around an octagon or bump out) you would have a hard time with that system. Once you press it in place I don't think you could move it sideways.

Thanks for posting the links.

Dave

stp57 · 11-06-2009, 07:57 AM

I'm glad I asked. Fascinating work.
Steve

Quote:

Originally Posted by crovello

I first tried bending Ipe. I steamed it for two hours and it did nothing to make it pliable. I then laminated Ipe cutting it into narrow strips so it would bend but the glue joints did not hold well and spring back was very bad. From what I have read Ipe just does not glue well. So as a last resort I laminated the steps out of mahogany. The strips are just shy of 3/4" each and it is glued with West System epoxy.
Attachment 24912
Attachment 24913

Some of the bad things about Ipe.
It weighs I feakin ton

It is brutal on tools. The yellow dust does get all over you. I don't know how harmful it is to people but it does seam to clog up my tools. I am forever blowing the dust out of my plate joiners so it will slide in and out.

It will not hold well with glue

It is hard as a rock, forget nailing or screwing without drilling. If you are near a board end and you drill a pilot hole that is much smaller than your nail or screw, expect it to split.

I normally don't have to predrill when using Ebtys but with Ipe you do. (if you want any holding power)

It is not available in all sizes. (at least in my area)
1" x 4" or 6"
5/6"x4", 6" and if your lucky you may find 8" ( I have never used 8" but man that must be heavy)

Rustbucket · 11-06-2009, 12:06 PM

This one looks pretty good too. http://www.hardwoodwrench.com/

Inner10 · 11-06-2009, 02:05 PM

Hats off,

Stairs look beautiful.

I looked at IPE onece for my house...didn't get past the price.

crovello · 11-07-2009, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rustbucket

This one looks pretty good too. http://www.hardwoodwrench.com/

I like that one best of all. I can't find a price on their web site. I guess you have to call. That makes me think it is not cheap

WNYcarpenter · 11-07-2009, 06:39 PM

You didn't mention the slivers....some of the nastiest I've ever had...

Also, we noticed ALOT of dimensional movement! This last year was our first. We tried a power nailer (split), then predrilled, and had some heaving problems...we pulled it up and spaced every 5th course with coil stock....now we have gaps....

I don't like it....I'm sure the function is great, but the workablity s!cks....JMO....

And IT IS HEAVY!!!