Any One Have A Good Choice On A Good Planer?

Houston's

Any one have a good choice on a good Planer, one i can take to the jobsite.. i will be doing a lot of 2" bead board planks..

http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.c...cts/DW735P.asp
or
http://www.toolsdirect.com/index.cfm.../finish/Orange
oir if u have a better idea

joasis

I have a 12 inch Delta for job site use, and it is pretty useless compared to my big planer. I have heard the Dewalt is decent, it may be more about expectations.

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john5mt

the makita 2012b has served me well. Not as heavy as the dewalt and replacment blades arent an arm and a leg.

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cleveman

Do you mean you will be making bead board planks? I think so far your answers have been designed to point you towards a thickness planer.

house bldr

I have the dewalt,its a little under powered for wider stock but for anything under about 6'' it does a very nice job.

Houston's

No. i need to plan down the bead board to clean it up and remove some good ole Lead paint!!!! sooo fun!!!

dougchips

Turn it over and work with the lead free side

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cleveman

I have only used the Delta planer and only to thickness plane white oak down to about 7/8". It wouldn't disappoint me if it were a lot faster. Most of my boards are over 6" wide.

I think the next model up is probably much faster. You would be hard pressed to surface plane 500 square feet of wood with this thing in a day.

That guy's tip about flipping the boards over is valid.

WarnerConstInc.

Hope you get something with cheap blades, paint is hard on those things. buy new boards!!!

I can get stuff milled fo like .75 cents foot, you sure you want to dick with power planninig each board.

PA woodbutcher

Your asking alot from a partable planer with Oak over 6-8". I have the Dewalt 13"...does a great job on anything hard under 6" and any pine or hemlock that I can fit down it's throat. I'm thinking he wants to take the paint off and a planers not going to leave much of a bead.

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Houston's

I dont want to do it but its what the customer wants, He wants the top of the bead board clean-ish and keep the paint down in the grove.
i will post a pick of what he wants tonight.. it does look cool.

Im sure yall will love the look of this restaurant when im done with it.

HitchC&L

Thats what I was thinking, no matter how much you plane it, you arent going to be able to get the paint out of the groove, unless of course you plane it THAT far, which would be a waste of time...but now that you explain that he wants to keep the paint in the groove it makes sense

Its going to be an interesting look, but still seems like a lot of work for the results...Im going to have to wait for the pics

TBFGhost

The new tauton's tool guide rated Portable Power Planers...i gave my issue away to a friend, I remember they remarked the Ryobi was the Best Value...I forget what came in top place for the Best Overall. I usally give what ever tool they rate #1 a good look b/c most of the time they are pretty accurate in their reviews...

skymaster

Houston: the answer isnt tuff, the question is will that customer PAY for what is needed? The 2 speed De Walt is great PLUS you will really need a carbide insert planer head. Should only cost around 1100 bucks or so. NO I am not a smart ass, if you go a lesser route you will spend close to that anyway, high speed knives will blow out in a heartbeat, by the time to pay for lots and lots of replacement blades and setup cheaper in long run to go the carbide route from the beginning.
Second way, buy new material and blue tape it paint the groove and done.

WarnerConstInc.

Yup paint the grove or sand off the paint with a sander hooked to a dust extractor with hepa filters/lead issue. Just tell them to not waste your time dicking with the old boards and get new paint grooves and distress as needed I think that is the look they are going after. There are lots of ways to make a new board look old.

72chevy4x4

you're not serious about the lead paint, are you? put the lead paint comment with 'restaurant' and what do you have...not a wise move. I'm sure the wood grain on the older stuff would be great, but throwing all that lead dust around (chips AND dust) is not recommended.

how about turning over the boards and using a shaper or router to make new 'bead'?

dayspring

What he said. In most areas you must take a course before you can permit lead paint removal, they actually come to the job and check that the dust is not over a certain amount. You for sure need to do it in a controled enviroment.

As far as planers go, I've got the Makita pictured above. Nice machine. I first bought a Hitachi, took it back, then a Dewalt, took it back. I'm satisfied with the Makita.

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Deadhead Derek

I have caused two of the lunchbox planers to light on fire, so in saying that, I wouldn't bother with a lunchbox type planer. I have the dewalt, 13" 3 head, and aside from having to bypass the thermal cutoff switch, it has been great. at 90 lbs, a little more than I want to hump in and out of the truck, but worth it.

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dirty harry

o.k., lets get this straight, you are going to clean up some old bead board which you say has lead paint.
first off if that is the case you might want to review the rrp rules before it costs you a fortune. each chip of lead paint carries a fine of + 30 k lead paint carries a very stiff fine , I do historical renovation and if you do not have a renovator certification for lead paint you better get one or get certified.
not expensive around 300.00 and is a one or two day course.
then register your firm as a lead free company and cover two entities required for lead paint at once.
if this is real 2" bead board it is probably smooth on one side , i would be amazed if it is not as i just removed and refinished a few thoushand feet that were in cigar factorys that were built in 1855. do not create lead dust

TBFGhost

...this post is about three years old at this point dude.