fredhedd

sorry if this questions been answered. i looked through here for about twenty minutes and didn't see a thread for this.

i'm looking into buying a brake. i am a gutter contractor and usually only cap fascias/gables. there are many different brakes to choose from. can anyone give me some good insight as to which one is better and for what? i don't mind spending the money for a nice piece of equipment if i'm sure it's the last one i'm going to buy. thanks.

Home Serve

We bought a van mark about 2 years ago and have been pleased with it and the service of the company with questions, issues, etc. Spent about 1200 on it delivered. Cant remember the model but professional 10' model.
If you get informed about specific makes, models, etc. this time of year you can find good used brakes at pawn shops and ebay. I would never buy one sight unseen. If it's close enough you could see it that be the way to go. We almost got a hold of a good lightly used but in a rural area it's hard to find something close. ABC sells brakes. Tapcon another major brake name.
You got the idea, don't buy a light duty cheapo

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Missouri Remodeling Company with services for Replacement Windows Vinyl Siding and Entry Doors

dkillianjr

Hey fred I've only had 2 brakes in my life. My old one was a Tapco "windy" 12'6" long. It was a good brake, it was probly about 14 years old or so when I got rid of it. I have a Vanmark "Mark 1" 10'6" now and it 100 times better. A few tips that I can suggest are, get a brake with a center lock as opposed to an end lock mecanisim so you can do return bends on either end. And get a brake that is capable of doing hems (bending the aluminum all the way around its self doubling up) I could be wrong but I believe only center lock brakes can do this. I really can't think of much else.


Dave

fredhedd

thnx. i've only started bending recently and one thing i definitely need is a coil stand/holder. i just looked at the one from van mark and it appears to be a two piece setup.

i have some questions about this because i've run into problems. i see that there is a slitter or cutter to cut the width of the aluminum. is there also one to cut the length? i have been using snips and am left with edges that need trimming even when using good snips. do i just turn the coil holder sideways and feed through to the front of the brake and then use the slitter?

what i'm looking for is complete ease of use. i want the brake that's going to save me the most time and mental energy. i don't want to be beat up anymore by my equipment.

KillerToiletSpider

Why couldn't you use an electric metal shear as opposed to snips? I cut sheet steel with one all the time with no jagged edges.

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"Being a White Sox fan frees a man from any other pennance" Bill Veeck.

dkillianjr

I've always used shears to cut my coil stock, snips always give that wavy cut.These are what I use http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brand...c=037103213976 The trick is to cut with the back of the shear and not let them close all the way.


Dave

A W Smith

I still have my reliable LIGHT WEIGHT Tapco "windy" 10"6"" slapper brake. I bought it new about 1982, The literature was amusing as it had a picture of Walter "Windy" Marsh the then owner of Tapco on the cover with a cigar clenched in the corner of his mouth wearing a polyester suit just like a used car salesman from the seventies. It is about time for a new Tapco pro 14 as I don't need the extra weight and throat depth of the pro 19. I plan to buy it from BethAllen ladder in PA. as they are cheaper than the local siding suppliers plus out of state no sales tax. I am within range of their free shipping circle as I found out when buying staging and wall brackets from them before.

I always pull my coil out of the box as i need it and score it with a sharp utility knife and an aluminum or steel square. perfectly straight ends and no waves or distortion.

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Al Smith
http://www.awsmith.com

Rmodeler

I have the 10'6" Tapco pro 19 and love it. It's nice to be able to put 24" coil in it and cut off 6" instead of having it in the reverse. Since you always need a work table, I use a ½ sheet of osb laid on 2 2x4-10s on saw horses. Then I set my coil on the exposed 2' of 2x4 with a 2x4 block behind it. Pull out the length of coil that I need, using a square, score it and break it, make my cut and bend marks and put it in the brake. No need for a coil holder.

A W Smith

I didn't think the Windy ever came in a 12'6'

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Al Smith
http://www.awsmith.com

Patrick

I have the same setup, I have a 10' long table with folding table legs on it. I added 3/8 foam to the top to keep the coil from scratching i change the foam every 4 houses or so. I also have a brand new used only once $400 vanmark stand alone coil dispenser which has been sitting in my garage unused for the last 4 years!! I like the table that much.

Patrick

Also make sure you replace the two bending handles on the Tapco with a one piece C shaped handle so no one gets their balls whacked

A W Smith

well if the customer is standing next to you watching you brake aluminum they deserve to have their balls whacked. I think Tapco did that on purpose. I remember the first time i set up and used the pro. I called the builder and asked... Bob.. Where the hell are the handles ?? DUH!! (they are on the ends of the brake for carrying)

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Al Smith
http://www.awsmith.com

thesidingpro

Tapco pro 3. I've only needed the 19 like 3 times so I don't think it's worth the extra weight. I've tried all the other's and nothing comes close. I've rebuilt this one like a dozen times but it gets abused 40-50 hrs a week constantly.

This is my setup for the last 5 or so years.

A W Smith

My slapper resides permanently on my truck with a masons plank tied to the top of it. I never take the coil completely out of the box i just hold the box between my feet or toes and pull what I need out. Then cut it on foam scrap on the ground with my knife and square. i use the bench (mason plank) on the horses behind my brake to store my complete bends and scrap cut offs. I bought legs for my brake not long after I bought the brake. They lasted five days until the legs got snagged on my utility cap rack and smacked me on the side of my head as i was loading/unloading it. I unscrewed the legs and attached them to a solid door for a workbench in my basement.

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Al Smith
http://www.awsmith.com

Patrick

Come on AW I thought you were classier than that

thesidingpro

AW the way you described is fine for making repairs or quick small jobs.

No way in hell would I bend 900ft of overhang like that. Not to mention it's hard to keep you quality up. Sure I can do it you way but it's much easier to take 5 minutes and set up what I use.

Ive burnt up a dozen rolls of coil in a day before. There's no way I could have done that using your method.

A W Smith

Well I don't do it bare footed like some hillbilly I find the coil is more susceptible to scratches out of the box than in the box. Especially on a breezy day. I don't own a coiler

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Al Smith
http://www.awsmith.com

Patrick

Anyone that needs a stand alone coiler is more than welcome to mine, Ill sell it cheap. I paid $400 for it, but prefer to use a $10 table instead Its just takin up space and collecting dust in the garage.

A W Smith

if i were to do 900 feet of rake cap and facia sure i would set up a wide workstation with something to hold my coil. And hell I wouldnt use a slapper either. within the past five years I have started to sub out my siding so I only use my brake for window jobs and repairs or addtions. For that a pair of horses with a plank works for me.

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Al Smith
http://www.awsmith.com

thesidingpro

Yea I don't use any accessories. Just utility knife and a table.