455 rancher limits? - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

snapper21 · 06-27-2006, 12:11 PM

Was given a new rancher last weekend from an inlaw for helping out my brother. Having a little trouble finding out how big a bar I can put on it. I have a 26" base to get through and I don't think I can pull that off, but was wondering if anyone had an idea through experience how much bar this motor is good for. black alder vs. Husqvarna 455 rancher. BTW, this has to have been the greatest gift imaginable. Guess I'm lucky I only have 1 tree in my backyard, and I don't want it, because I had a great time after work yesterday. Grip it -n- Rip it

RobertF · 06-27-2006, 03:28 PM

For a 26" base all you really need is a 16" bar. There is nothing wrong with cutting from both sides. The 455 is only a 55cc motor so I wouldn't really go with anything bigger than a 18" for a hardwood. Even then, let the saw to the work it will be real easy to bog it down if you push it real hard. If you're the patient type you could throw on a 20" bar but use a full skip chain to reduce the drag.

snapper21 · 06-27-2006, 04:33 PM

Yeah it came with a 20" and I do let the saw be the mule, so I should have no problem. Was really wanting to cut plates after it was down was the reason I was asking. Appreciate it.

Oregon_Rob · 07-09-2006, 06:25 PM

Huskys are great saws, I own 2. I agree with the 18-20" bar.
The best thing you can know as a saw owner, besides safety, is how to file a chain correctly. A sharp chain is a wonderful thing and will help you get so much more out of a saw. Don't take it to the saw shop every time you think it needs it, just a waste of chain and you always end up putting it off to long.

RobertF · 07-09-2006, 06:42 PM

On top of that, even a machine ground chain will do better if touched up by hand.

**Teetorbilt** · 07-09-2006, 10:35 PM

Whoops! I thought that this was about Buick's.

I have to disagree on the sharpening. A sharpening machine will ensure that every tooth is ground equally, something that you will never accomplish by hand. The tooth guide also need to be done to keep 'the bite' proper.

Unequal tooth height and angles will cause bar wear and chain stretch. Chain stretch will wear out the drive sprocket and the nose wheel if you have one.

As far as burrs on the teeth of a chainsaw, this ain't no pocket knife. They're all gone in the first few seconds.

snapper21 · 07-10-2006, 05:57 AM

When I was surveying (cutting line) back in the day, we always did our own hand filing since we were deep in the woods, and we were requiring sharpenings at least twice a day. Now that time DOES permit I will be having it machined, but will still run a featherstroke over the burrs if they're visible. I agree that it in some, maybe most cases it's over maintenance, but I have seen heavy burring create a blunt tooth, and it makes me feel like "I did something". Which reminds me of slicing my thumb down to the bone while sharpening the machete. But what a surgically clean cut it was.