16 gauge straight finish nailer - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

karma_carpentry · 07-27-2006, 07:00 PM

I just bought a Bostitch 16 gauge straight finish nailer at the Lowe's.

The nails are more substantial than the 18 gauge straights, but not as 'solid' as the 15 gauge angled. But I like that 'non-solid-ness' when I use the 18 gauge nailer - it's more delicate - but they bend too easily and pull out easily. The 15 gauge just smashes up small pieces of wood or pieces with difficult grain.

I haven't seen the 16 gauge used by anyone yet, but I feel like it's a great compromise with the benefits of the 15 and 18 gauges.

Does anyone use it? Using galvy nails, does it make the grade for outdoor trim work, like porch trim? What are its strengths for interior work? I figured it would be good for base, crown, casing, etc.

**Teetorbilt** · 07-27-2006, 07:43 PM

I use one. 16 Ga. is OK, my biggest problem is the head size. The divot is a bit large to fill even in trim, I'd never turn it loose on finish carpentry.

In all honesty, I use it more for a clamp. Just holding 2 pieces together while the glue dries.

dayspring · 07-27-2006, 08:34 PM

Teetor what is your suggestion as far as a "finish" gun?

IHI · 07-27-2006, 10:28 PM

I agree with Teetor, my paslode cordless is a 16ga. straight and it leaves a big hole behind and even when matching the putty to the trim they still show up. I went and bought an 18ga porter cable hosed gun and a cordless compressor and I now use this for all the window and door casing since it leaves such a small hole behind in grainey wood at first and second glance you could probably skate by without filling holes

I do use the 16ga quite often outdoors for exactly like your talking about, the galvanized brads seem to hold up well thus far but we typically either use construction adhesive of exterior glue for the main bodning and the brads as a tact till the glue dries, and yes, these 16ga do make excellent aux hands since you can pin a piece to hold it up then work on the other end. Great for outdoor work and will use in a pinch inside or when necessary, but from here on out all fine finish is 18ga

DecksEtc · 07-28-2006, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IHI

I agree with Teetor, my paslode cordless is a 16ga. straight and it leaves a big hole behind and even when matching the putty to the trim they still show up. I went and bought an 18ga porter cable hosed gun and a cordless compressor and I now use this for all the window and door casing since it leaves such a small hole behind in grainey wood at first and second glance you could probably skate by without filling holes

I do use the 16ga quite often outdoors for exactly like your talking about, the galvanized brads seem to hold up well thus far but we typically either use construction adhesive of exterior glue for the main bodning and the brads as a tact till the glue dries, and yes, these 16ga do make excellent aux hands since you can pin a piece to hold it up then work on the other end. Great for outdoor work and will use in a pinch inside or when necessary, but from here on out all fine finish is 18ga

Ditto!

dayspring · 07-28-2006, 05:15 PM

I agree the 16 gauge does leave a rather large hole. I haven't used the 18 gauge. Do the nails hold as well in door and window trim, what about base? I've been using the 16 gauge for years and always thought that the holes were too large. However a hand driven finish nail of the same length after setting would do pretty much the same. If, in fact the 18 gauge will hold as well, I'll buy one tomorrow.

karma_carpentry · 07-28-2006, 05:53 PM

Thanks everyone for your experiences.

Dayspring, I've used the 18 gauge for interior trim a lot, and it holds fine. I love its light feel and ease of use with no worry of ever splitting even the ends of pieces. I even shoot into the ends of miters (with a shorter nail) and it never split the piece yet. Sometimes I shoot a few nails at opposing nails for really good grip, if I have to bend in a piece of casing around a curved wall surface or something ridiculous like that. I tend to use the long nails, 2" sometimes even 2 1/2" for the 18 guage. Easier to catch solid framing by shooting at angles.

I think you have to figure the physics like this : You still have all the tensile strength you need. A piece will never pull out because the nail breaks. But you have hardly any bending strength. The nail is just a piece of wire, so it bends in your fingers easily. So nail with that in mind, and it will hold tight.

Just one thing to watch out for - if you shoot a long nail like 2 1/2" into a piece, and it hits a knot or something, it can occasionally go really wild and curve around and come out the piece somewhere random. Point is, never have your hands within the length of the nail from the nailing point. This danger doesn't exist with the 15 gauge, I think.

So far, I only used the Bostitch 16 gauge for a few minutes on a test run, but the divet didn't seem bad. In fact, I can't say it's any worse than a normal hand finish nail countersink divet. It's sort of T shaped, but not too big. I think it'll be just as easy to fill as the hand nail.

Good to know someone else uses it for porch trim, although I don't use adhesive for lattice and 3/4 trim boards. I may put in a few more finish nails than you do. Haven't had a problem with trim pulling out, but I think I may try the adhesive soon to see how it feels.

Maybe different manufacturer guns have different divets? That would be a good difference to know about.

ApgarNJ · 07-28-2006, 07:38 PM

I bought the pasloade 18 ga air nailer and love it. very small hole to fill, no splits in any wood. i barely use my cordless pasload straight 16 gauger anymore. when they come out with angled 18 gauge cordless, i'll be the first in line. i know they have the 18 straight cordless now, but i like the air one better for doing lots of trim.

IHI · 07-29-2006, 12:20 AM

I've used the 18 ga to "pin" miters together with glue since I bought it....one of the mian reason i bought it since the 16ga would split the casing when pinning miters. Now it's some glue on one side of the miter, squeeze them together and pin in place, then shoot 5/8" 18ga brads in the ends of the casing in both directions, keeps a nice tight miter especially after the glue dries.

For the exterior, I think it depends on alot of factors, but I try to think 5 years from now after the weather has gotten to these piecs of wood with all the expansion and constraction eventually the wood around the pins will work loosen up, so personally I like the adhesive to be the main "connector" with the nails/brads/screws/etc...to be the tack together and back up method. But if what your doing works, then dont mess with a good thing!!

hungoverhack · 08-05-2006, 11:13 PM

15 guage for hanging doors (with screws through the hinges after its cased),18 for almost all trim and pinning miters (with glue) and 23 for pinning funky joints like crown around bullnose. the only time i use 16 guage is for pickup with my dewalt cordless, dewalt sucks but that gun is awesome

415moto · 08-06-2006, 12:16 AM

I use a 15 angle for hanging doors and outside work with trim..and sometimes larger crown, if its high up. Or as a clamp to hold somthing like a 2x before its nailed or screwed. My 15 is a bostich and it makes an ugly hole.

The 16 straight i use for most trim if its paint grade. A dewalt and i like it. Heavier than the bostich but i like the control better, seems smoother when it nails.

and the 18 straight i use to tighten up miters or joints and on finished wood. Its a porter, not as nice as the bostich or dewalt, but gets the job done. Jams alot more than the other 2 tho.

Jeremy E · 09-01-2006, 01:35 PM

Is anyone using the paslode 18 guage cordless? I've got two of the 16 guage finish guns, and I love them except for the big hole to fill. I'd rather not go to an air system just for fine finish. Thoughts?