10" or 12" SCMS - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

pn70 · 12-25-2006, 10:56 AM

Hey guys, Merry Christmas!!!!

Anyway, I am ready to buy a new SCMS (Sliding Compound Miter Saw) and cannot find good justification to buy a 12". It seems that a 10" would be more precise and accurate for trim/finish work.

I have read other threads on here about SCMS but none of them really state why you would go with a 12" over a 10"

The 12" models seem to have slightly larger work tables and probably gorilla through cuts quicker but I don't plan on having any hacks using my saw or necessarily use it for rough lumber.

I already have a 12" dual compound dewalt miter saw (DW716) and use it for framing needs more or less. I like this saw but don't want to use it for trim and rough work combined.

Also...how many of you actually use your SCMS for framing and finish needs? Do you use the same blade or keep swapping between blades?

So my question is why would you go with a 12" over a 10" or vice versa?

Thanks in advance and have a nice holiday!!!

mdshunk · 12-25-2006, 11:07 AM

The 10" will necessarily have less runout when compared with the 12.

pn70 · 12-25-2006, 11:21 AM

I totally agree mdshunk and that's a really good reason to stay away from the 12" but hope to hear from more guys on here....keep em coming!!!

Woodcrafter74 · 12-25-2006, 02:02 PM

I have the DW718 (12") and love it, but I use it mainly for framing. The only reason I'd vote for the 12" for finish work is if you cut your crown in the angled position, a 10" doesn't allow for a very large crown cut--unless you're cutting it flat.

Bone Saw · 12-25-2006, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Woodcrafter74

The only reason I'd vote for the 12" for finish work is if you cut your crown in the angled position, a 10" doesn't allow for a very large crown cut--unless you're cutting it flat.

bingo, I have a 12 and chose that primarilly for cutting 6x6 posts, that's it, but aside from cutting posts I use it for cutting railing parts, which I clearly dont need a 12 for, but far as acuracy, it's pretty damn acurate. I think the makita 10" is the t!ts far as scms's go.

Mike Finley · 12-26-2006, 01:06 AM

Just like playing golf, Tiger Woods uses the exact club he needs for every shot, a weekend golfer might use the next closest one and not know the difference. Buy all the saws. You're a pro you need a full compliment of tools and you use them specifically for the job at hand so you don't have to compromise or waste time.

**Teetorbilt** · 12-26-2006, 11:10 AM

You can cut little stuff with a big saw but not big stuff with a little saw.

Blade deflection means nothing if you know how to use a saw, let the tool do the work.

Bone Saw · 12-26-2006, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teetorbilt

You can cut little stuff with a big saw but not big stuff with a little saw.

Blade deflection means nothing if you know how to use a saw, let the tool do the work.

amen

Gordo · 12-26-2006, 04:43 PM

Buy the 12".

karma_carpentry · 12-26-2006, 04:57 PM

So how do you all reduce deflection ? I have heard bad things about deflection from 12" saws but my Dewalt 12" SCMS seems to do fine. My only technique is to go slow, have a sharp blade & let the carbide take its own time to eat the wood and not force the blade - and for the finest work, make the cut 1/32 long and then graze off that last 1/32nd, only about 1/4 the blade width. Seems to make a really smooth face. Any other techniques I should know about?

**Teetorbilt** · 12-26-2006, 05:25 PM

The blade is the most critical item, has to be sharp! Stabilizers help cut down on deflection and should be on ALL miter saws.

The first cut is not final, make a second pass without moving the piece. This takes care of blade deflection unless you're an axe man.

The easiest wat to make a slight angle change or remove a 'cat whisker' is to push the piece against the blade when the saw is off, raise the blade and then cut. You will remove only the kerf set of the teeth, a second cut should not be required except with large stock.

King of Crown · 12-26-2006, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Woodcrafter74

I have the DW718 (12") and love it, but I use it mainly for framing. The only reason I'd vote for the 12" for finish work is if you cut your crown in the angled position, a 10" doesn't allow for a very large crown cut--unless you're cutting it flat.

Right on. the 12" is good for doing crown cuts that are taller, and you dont want to do the math to find the compound angle. I do all crown that is around 4" or smaller standing up, its faster than flipping everything around.

pn70 · 12-26-2006, 08:27 PM

you guys make some good points, i'll get the 12.

now i just need to decide between the dewalt or makita.

thanks for the advice guys!!!!

bruno002 · 12-26-2006, 08:41 PM

12 for shure

Bone Saw · 12-26-2006, 10:24 PM

Makita hands down

RYANINMICHIGAN · 12-27-2006, 10:10 PM

got to say Bosch sorry Bone

DesPro · 12-27-2006, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by karma_carpentry

My only technique is to go slow, have a sharp blade & let the carbide take its own time to eat the wood and not force the blade - and for the finest work, make the cut 1/32 long and then graze off that last 1/32nd, only about 1/4 the blade width.

I use the same technique to counter any deflection especially when cutting wide maple or hickory crown. And yes... 12".

**Teetorbilt** · 12-27-2006, 10:46 PM

It's never so much the machine as the user. If you grab the handle hard, you will impart a twist to the cut. The correct technique is to apply as little influance as possible while at the same time being ready to hang on for dear life.

dayspring · 12-28-2006, 06:01 AM

I've been using a 10" Makita SCMS for about a year now, before I used a 12" CMS. The 10" has done everything that I have needed it to do so far. If you cut much large material you may consider a 12", but it cost more to purchase and the blades cost more too. The Makita is a very tough saw, however I don't care for the location of the miter scale and making small adjustments to the angle is not all that easy. If the Bosch is as tough, you may look into it.

King of Crown · 12-28-2006, 11:21 AM

bosch