Waterproofing Options

monticellohomes

I am about to start a custom near the lake, and the lot already has some water issues that I want to additionally protect the foundation against. We have water running through a culvert onto the neighboring property then across our lot. And being there is so much rock there we've run into water leaching out on the other home I built there. I want to protect this home from any water that may hit it...as well the HO would like to insulate the concrete walls as they are going to do an energystar home.

Any advice?

concretemasonry

Definitely put in drain tile and a sump. I havea friend that built over 5000 homes without a problem. He put in drain tile both inside and outside the footings (rock under the drain tile). All he did on the exterior of the block walls was parging and/or Thoroseal followed by a troweled on coating and then 6 or 10 mil poly. He followed up with granular backfill the entire depth on the wall.

This builder also has a special block made for the first course to drain the cores in case surface or ground water got in. - Tubes into the rock/drain tile.

Since they are obviously planning to have the basement as a conditioned space, use 6" of rock, a sand cushion and poly under the slab.

The choice of insulation is open.

Lake lot, rock and surface water on the lot are sure-fire indicators of possible problems, so you are already aware that there will be more things to do than normal. That eliminates any excuses if there is a problem.

you have a situation where the water can come from above, across the surface of from below.

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Dick

Engineer, designer and consultant recently active domestically and internationally on construction and design in about 35 countries.

neolitic

Elevation, siting, and grading will go
a long way towards eliminating problems
before they start.
Look carefully at the topo before plopping
the house just any where on the lot.
Experience and planning will be a help
no matter what waterproofing system
is used on the foundation walls.

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(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

monticellohomes

Ive planned on doing the drain tile around the exterior of the foundation, I like the idea of going on the inside as well. And had already planned on waterproofing the exterior with a synthetic membrane of some sort, level of product up to the HO. And I always try and set my houses a foot above curb so I can have drainage from the house to the curb and no the other way.

Ive seen so many waterproofing products out there, any suggestions on which one? The one I have bid for is Watchdog.

Chris Johnson

One product I was real impressed with in the past was 'Spray It Blue', it is an elastomeric membrane that has a hugh elongation factor. Add a dimple board membrane prior to backfill, the standard weeping tile around the exterior footing and run weeping tile on the inside for any hydro static pressure. Make sure you have clean draining backfill up against the wall and a positive grade and you shouldn't have any issues.

Most basement leaks are easily preventable, but the attitude a lot of people have is 'out of site, out of mind' that's fine and dandy until you realize a repair is 100x more than what the proper way to do it in the first place would have cost.

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Chris

monticellohomes

Exactly why I want to do this right when everything is opened up...really don't want to take the chance of anything going wrong.

Blockade

It is all about directing the water to a controlled area, like said earlier in this thread crushed rock and weeping tile are key elements too directing the water where you want it to go (Sump pit and pump). Sure water proofing will protect the structure but removing the threat as quickly as possible makes the threat of water less likely. In freeze thaw conditions the water is even more of and enemy. Directing it out of the structure and away will protect it from the forces of ice. If water is trapped inside you block or concrete work with no chance to escape, it can freeze and break your foundation apart. In a case where you are heating your foundation or crawl space, insulation can be put on the exterior of the foundation in conjunction with waterproofing, weeping tile and grading. This can help with conserving energy, removing grade and ground water and waterproofing your foundation.

cleveman

I'm surprised that the tiling on the inside and outside of the footing isn't already standard.

You've had a couple of suggestions to backfill with stone. I don't think anyone suggested what type of stone. I have often thought that clean, crushed limestone would be best because it will just stack up in the trench and not compact completely and not put pressure against the wall like pea gravel (ball bearings). I think you have lots of limestone in your area, but if you don't you can used crused stone of your choice, but make sure it's clean.

Of course you want to waterproof the exterior of the wall and put 2" of polystyrene on top of that.

Make sure that you are daylighting the tile somewhere, hopefully with 2 or more lines. In addition to this, put in at least one sump pump pit.