Suggestion For Installing Insulation In Floor Joists

72chevy4x4

I'm working with 4" wide trusses 24" OC and need to come up with a method to hold up insulation. The typical metal hangers are too wide (they're made for a 2" piece of lumber). considering using a pnuematic stapler and installing 3 pieces of metal hanger / 4' batt or a roll of wire pulled through many trusses, stapled. Netting was the original choice, but it's not working well enough-too much sag.

Any bright ideas out there

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Home Serve

I'd just cut the wire insulation wires to the proper length or find some other wire and cut it to length. The wires work well and are easy.
Otherwise I've seen folks use string and staple the string to the trusses. I have never done it that way but you'd have to find string made of a material that does not stretch.

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Dan_Watson

Exactly what he said .

Blockade

String and a hand stapler! Put the insulation in place and staple a knotted string to the bottom, side or middle of the joist. You can use a ball of string and just keep unrolling it as required in a zig-zag...works great in crawl spaces and can be put right onto the bottom of the joist if you are drywalling or sheathing it....

72chevy4x4

do you think the string would work well w/ 21" spacing? I'm wondering about the sag factor. I'll bring in the chopsaw and cut down my metal rods to see how they stay up.

A.W.Davis

You ever considered subfloor insulation netting??
http://www.jrproductsinc.com/shop/pc...idCategory=117

Edit: nevermind I didnt see that you already tried netting

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SLSTech

Out of the box thought for you - rigid insulation cut just a fraction to large & place it in thereto hold the fiberglass up

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DavidC

Never heard of that string idea, sounds pretty simple and effective. Here in the backwoods we use chicken wire stapled to the bottom of the joists.

I hope I remember the ball of string if I ever have to do it again.

Good Luck
Dave

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Blockade

It works tried and true. R40 on TJI and and on lots of other standard joisting. You can space the string as close or as far apart as you need too. It is a one man operation or have someone follow behind and nothing to go wrong. If the string tangles, cut it and restart. If you need to protect the insulation then that is another story, but just to keep it there....string.

Stewy

Have used strips of poly stapled to the bottom of the framing.

72chevy4x4

If string, would you use a nylon string? I'm wondering if twine, in a moist crawlspace, may eventually rot.

MALCO.New.York

Simple!




Polypropylene! "Strapex".

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all vinyl

WOOD LATH AND GUN . BUT I LIKE THJE CHIKEN WIRE

firemike

I have gone the chicken wire route, extra work and money, but looked good. The last one I did I took the boxes of wire insulation supports and cut them to length with a small hand grinder with a 4 1/2" metal-cutting blade, cutting the whole bax of wire at once. Quick and worked like a charm.

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Jason Whipple

With the cost of fiberglass insulation up so much, the extra cost of strapping, and the time involved to all that; you would be far better off to spray foam it.

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72chevy4x4

have some more work to do in this field and have recently inspected the first job...used nylon twine (large rolls meant for a hay bailer) and cap nails on the ends for strength to pull the twine tight and stapled in the field (middle). The method is absolutely spotless-NO insulation has fallen and it stays put even with drain leaks above (pipe leaks).

After the first few jobs I switched to using metal wire hangers because the job required costs to be cut...cut the 22.5" metal down to the appropriate width. The cut end doesn't have the taper like it does from the factory which helps it dig into the wood. This problem was alleviated by digging the wire in a little bit during the installation method. The upcoming jobs I'll cut in mass and roll them across the grinder wheel to put a slight point on the hangers.

as an FYI: after inspecting crawlspace jobs which I did not do and that may be 4-6 years old, they used mason's string to hold the insulation up-the string stretches and is too small for the task or fallen-50% failure rate in those spaces (fallen insulation). I feel like I"m a pro at this job now!

A.T.C.

Thanks for the info on the masons twine. I was wondering about that.

I've used rebar pliers to cut the wire rods down before, and it puts a nice, sharp point on the end. Might be too time consuming for a big project, though, I don't know. But then again, cutting them with a chop saw and shaping with an angle grinder might take the same time.

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MALCO.New.York

Can one say... "HOLY old?"

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