Installing Door W/ Metal Studs

 
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:15 PM   #1
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Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


Had to add in a new door, in an exsiting partition wall in an office. The walls have metal studs. I have cut the opening in the drywall, and removed the studs that were in the way, How do I now frame in the door opening? Metal? Wood? Combo of both? How is the door attached? It is a hollow core prehung door.

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Old 04-06-2008, 04:19 PM   #2
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Re: Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


Regular door? I use a combo of both... I rip a 2x to about 3 1/4" to fit in the u of the metal stud, then screw it in place. Then you have a wood frame to hang the door..
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:24 PM   #3
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Re: Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


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Originally Posted by TimelessQuality View Post
Regular door? I use a combo of both... I rip a 2x to about 3 1/4" to fit in the u of the metal stud, then screw it in place. Then you have a wood frame to hang the door..
There you go.
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:25 PM   #4
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Re: Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


Thank You I am not a fan of steel, my hands are like swiss cheese as it is from all of my weekly battles with coil.
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:29 PM   #5
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Re: Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


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Originally Posted by TimelessQuality View Post
Regular door? I use a combo of both... I rip a 2x to about 3 1/4" to fit in the u of the metal stud, then screw it in place. Then you have a wood frame to hang the door..

Yup thats the way I do it too.



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Old 04-06-2008, 04:42 PM   #6
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Re: Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


why rip? just screw the wood to the back of the stud ]x and place in the rough opening.
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:55 PM   #7
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Re: Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


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why rip? just screw the wood to the back of the stud ]x and place in the rough opening.
Bingo! I never rip and insert the wood inside the metal. It can cause havock with trim nailers. Frame the metal opening 3" wider and 1 1/2" taller, then back screw the wood into the opening. By back screw I mean screw through the metal to the wood. May require a larger opening inicially but it will be solid!
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:05 PM   #8
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Re: Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


Kind of depends on whether the
stud is an "I" or a "U"?
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:29 PM   #9
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Re: Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


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Originally Posted by neolitic View Post
Kind of depends on whether the
stud is an "I" or a "U"?
True for the door install, but not the casing.
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Old 04-06-2008, 07:23 PM   #10
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Re: Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


It depends on the profile of the stud...

I still do a double (jack) stud in metal plus the wood for door frames. For commercial, tall walls and heavy use need it.
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Old 08-03-2008, 04:50 PM   #11
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Re: Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


Add three inches to the rough opening.frame with metal inverting the two jack studs then screw 2x4s to the two insde metal studs.
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Old 08-03-2008, 06:17 PM   #12
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Re: Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


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Originally Posted by Mellison View Post
Add three inches to the rough opening.frame with metal inverting the two jack studs then screw 2x4s to the two insde metal studs.
Use steel track rather then steel studs to frame opening and insert 2x4 scrap into the track. You can use waste this way and allow for nailing and scewing backer on the sides and top of the opening, no need to change the rough opening and no real time to cut and frame...
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Old 08-03-2008, 06:27 PM   #13
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Re: Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


Depends on the frame thickness of the door. Thicker frames with integral grooves for drywall are installed at framing and as such, frame is plumbed and studs screwed to frame and secured to track. 5/8 or 3/4 frame, add the 2x
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Old 08-07-2008, 12:05 PM   #14
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Re: Installing Door W/ Metal Studs


Quote:
Originally Posted by TimelessQuality View Post
It depends on the profile of the stud...

I still do a double (jack) stud in metal plus the wood for door frames. For commercial, tall walls and heavy use need it.
that's a good point-w/o a good frame you could see the entire wall flex in and out w/ the door slamming shut. If you decide to install metal door frames, they have connectors that you would drill into the concrete and anchor them with. If you go light duty, be observant where the wall is anchored-if you cut out the framing section that anchored the wall to the ground and the next one is 12" back from the edge of the opening, you've got a weak system.
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