Ideas For Wood Stud Wall Attachment To Steel "I" Beam?

durham

Anyone have any helpful solution for having an existing 2x4 wood stud wall to bear upon a 10" steel "I" beam? Previously an interior wall of an historic bldg, the demo guys removed the exterior wall/roof/floor of an addition to expose this wall at the 2nd floor. The bottom of the studs are cut (butchered by sawzall + laborers) to release from plate and floor. Then floor was removed, and new structual steel erected , with said "I" beam landing approx. 10" below cut stud wall. Here is where I come aboard, with the task of creating ideas to throw at architect.
Any thoughts?

wackman

What's going back there? Are the said removed walls, floor and roof being rebuilt or is there somthing new going on? What size joists/tji do you have? Is this a load bearing wall and the beam is supporting it? Does this wall run with or against the joists?

Maybe with a little more info on the scope and conditions of your project I could offer some suggestions.

Teetorbilt

Hilti fasteners if allowed.

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durham

The new structural steel / concrete addition will eventually tie into wood bldg., allowing access into new areas from existing. Joists are running with wall. Not a load bearing wall. Wish I had taken a photo, but if you were viewing this on site you would see the old wood stud wall running from the gable roof ridge down 1 1/2 storey, sheathed with boards, plaster on interior, to a point approx. 4"-5" above where the floor used to be. Here the studs have been sawzalled free of the demo area. The existing floor is cut on the interior side approx 6-8" away. Below the remaining joists is the new steel, running under the wall and along the joists about 10" away. Looks to me the demo guys chopped the wall short, ripped floor between joists, and pulled down the back of this house with machinery.
So I have to continue this wood wall to the steel, and later on repair the floor and tie in to new steel structure ( an upcoming thread, i'm sure )
My first thought was sister the studs, extend to plate, secured to steel.
However, to access from outside,not very safe, and my bosses' & client's site offices are on the interior side. (told to find other options)
- they say a picture is worth a thousand words...

wackman

Just so I'm clear....You're saying they don't want you to open the wall and do the work from the inside where you have better access and the outside is difficult to get safe access to, correct? You said they opened up the floor, is there access from below? What floor is this on? What are the unsafe conditions from the outside?

It sounds like your real problem is access not necessarily procedure.

You might need a man lift, boom lift or cage. I think we still need some more details on this.

Once you figure out the access issue then I agree with Teetor to use Hilti fasteners to attach a new plate to the beam, probably new rim joists and bottom plates, then just sister your studs like you said.

It your steel is real thick and purple loads won't pin your plate then you'll probably want to drill it.

durham

Wack,
I posted 2 pics at the members gallery. One showing site conditions and one a "close-up" showing studs above beam. Think I can pull it off without opening up walls?

wackman

It doesn't look good to get sister studs up there and actually tie it together well if you don't have access from the other side, but it does look to me like you could clean up the bottom of those studs and either put a double rim and new plates in, or multiple stacked plates. It depends on what your codes, architects, engineers and inspectors will allow.

I've worked with some architects/engineers that were able to do all their own inspections and we could get really creative and others that were so by the book and stuffy that I felt like my hands were tied most of the time.

I'd say it's worth the suggestion. Hope this helps and good luck!

durham

thanks, wack
solid suggestions. We worked with these architects before on another historic job. Some things they came up with...where do they learn this stuff?? I will recommend your suggestion to them, and hope for the best. Well, it looks like I better go find a palm nailer.
Thanks again

lxdollarsxl

Not having any experience in what you do, but thowing in an idea, what about fixing the metal tracks for metal studs then instead of using metal studs use wood in the track?

STEPHENMISHKA

Need size and weight of I beam and in which direction this beam is to sit on the 2 X 4 wall and what the 2 X 4 wall is sitting on.

The Solender Group Inc.
Construction Defects Experts