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HELP!!! - Poorly Framed Wall

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Old 12-13-2008, 08:41 PM   #21
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Re: HELP!!! - Poorly Framed Wall

take a look at that photo again. the header which I am assuming is a triple 2 x 10 spans less of a distance between those two roof planes than a floor to ceiling 5 inch deep microlam would go floor to ridge. seems to me if you cut that header and insert vertical microlams you would be making the problem worse not better. Call an engineer.

also what home depot did those toy plastic horses come from? get some real ones.
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Last edited by A W Smith; 12-14-2008 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 12-13-2008, 10:27 PM   #22
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Re: HELP!!! - Poorly Framed Wall

Go to a steel place have them make you 5- 20 foot long 6 inch wide by 1/2 inch in depth. Put bolt holes in it every 10 inches and then add nail holes every 2 inches side by side all the way down. Then span them from the top to the bottom. Then run 5/8 cdx 4 ply on it and dado out were the steel is. Then you have a really strong wall and also smooth for the rock to go on.
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Old 12-13-2008, 10:49 PM   #23
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Re: HELP!!! - Poorly Framed Wall

in the past when ive framed walls such as this the engineer always spec'd 2x8 timberstand for studs as opposed to 2x6, for windows on top of one another we would have the upper header bearing on a double jack then the lower header bearing on a single jack the outer most being a continious jack down to the plate,

also anytime a king stud and jack met a plate or header L-70 hangers were used

the header would ger two per side , one to the king and one to the jack , and plywood

the last one i did i got screamed at by the project manager for using timberstrands for my jacks along with cripples and sils, he wanted spruce used. oh well, guess i built the wall too expensive, expensive but strong
putting down subfloor with glue and screws, well i saw dr. smith and the robot too , i had a martian burger and a sonic shake
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Old 12-14-2008, 12:28 PM   #24
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Re: HELP!!! - Poorly Framed Wall

granted i havent read though all the posts, would it be possible to creat a bracket that whould connect the 20' 2x6 to the framing above the header. make the bracket out of 1/4" steel and bolt to the framing with lag blots.
"The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war."
-- Vijaya Lakshmi Pandit (1900-1990)
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Old 12-14-2008, 01:08 PM   #25
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Re: HELP!!! - Poorly Framed Wall

I'm still not seeing the issue with the wall as it's framed. What is this talk of a hinge point? I see a gable set on top of a wall... I see this every day. Are you saying the gable is going to magicaly fold in half around a vertical center point? The roof sheathing provides rack bracing so the gable and tusses can't topple, so how is the gable hinged?

The header is sitting on top of jacks and the weight of the gable is on the header...what's the problem?

I would be more concerned about the wall if it had been framed with king studs or steel running verticaly from floor to ridge. That 2x10 header is giving the wall needed rigidity, the major thing I would have liked to see done different is a double top plate on top of the 2x10 header to stiffen the wall up horizontaly.
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Old 12-14-2008, 03:35 PM   #26
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Re: HELP!!! - Poorly Framed Wall

I had this problem once. There was a door in our wall and once we had the wall framed we showed the HO that the whole wall shook a bit...even though we ran full length 2x6 studs. So it would be bad once completed, if you ever closed the door hard.

The cheap fix (HO was into saving $$$ - imagine that) was to build a 24" knee wall and install it horizontally, as a plant shelf, at the triple 2x10 height, making it span the entire room. Then plywood it with 3/4" cdx on both top and bottom, glued and nailed 4" o.c. Throw in some gussets / corbels and blam.

Voila...plant ledge...wall stiffener.

(Dust collector too)


Last edited by wallmaxx; 12-14-2008 at 05:11 PM.
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