Framing With Metal Studs

Rich

Any advice on framing with metal studs ? Finishing a basement and thought it would be a good opportunity to experiment. Insulate with foam boards ?
Any suggestions would be great.

747

Oppions very on metal studs. Some people love them some people don't. If you know what your doing there easy to work with. I will say this. A basement remodel is a good application for metal studs. Also you have to feel comfortable using metal shears for cutting the track the studs sit in. I think thats what there called hand held scissors more or less that cut sheat metal. I didn't know they made them for right handed and left handed until i got my house vinyl sided. Thats what they used to cut the aliuminum (spelling never can remember how to spell that) for raping around windows.

Cole

I agree.^^^

If its your first time, go ahead try metal.

I prefer wood but thats because I have worked with it for a long time.

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DecksEtc

I prefer wood (personal choice). Keep in mind you'll have to glue your trim and baseboards on - if that concerns you.

Mike Finley

Just a couple of things - you might want to consider cutting with a chop saw or a metal cutting blade in your skill saw or much prefered a metal cutting blade in a power miter saw. Hand shears will work of course, but you can cut 20-30 studs to one using a chop saw vs hand shears.

Are you talking about foam board insulation behind the stud wall up against the basement wall?

Do you have a screw gun? A drill is not going to work for driving metal screws into studs, you will continually strip out the threads because a drill will not cam out as a screw gun will. Get self tapping screws for an easier time of it also. Actually you will need to study up on the special fastners available, no drywall screws here, modified truss instead. If you really want to have a go at it buy a special nail gun made by Powers that shoots metal stud fasteners. (Hey, you can also weld them together if you want!)

The two areas people find the trickiest with metal studs are door/windows and trim. You can add wood studs around the doors and windows if you like. There are other options for trim other than glue also. There are special trim head screws that are made for attaching wood trim to metal studs and there are also nails designed to shoot into metal studs from a nailer for attaching trim.

I'm no expert at metal studs any commercial guy here will be able to help out even more than I can.

TimNJ

You can go to jail for doing that!

Jakki

was thinking the same thing.

I personally enjoy metal studs i find it easier to work with.

mdshunk

From the standpoint of an electrician, if you plan to hire out your electrical work for this basement remodel, the electrical work is more expensive when you have metal studs versus wood framing. Some added expenses are stud hole bushings for the romex, special metal stud boxes and brackets, you need to tek screw on straps for securing wires that are parallel to framing members, etc. It adds about 18-22% to the cost of the electrical work for the different material and different labor techniques.

Teetorbilt

Sometimes 747s spelling makes me wonder about who's flying the plane. LOL

If you want to go metal, don't plan on hanging any weight on them. Especially if you go to the lighter ga. metal. With wood, you can sink in a 3/8" lag bolt and it will hold just about anything, not so with metal.

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747

I never realized how bad my spelling was until i became a member here. I use to have a hand held speller. It was awesome just get the word close and it would spell it correctly. I dropped it. It never worked again. Bought it at radio shack.

Ps wrapping around windows.LOL

Peladu

I have become so used to reading misspellings and incorrect grammar that I just blow over it most of the time. This board isn’t as bad as some others who have the Spelling and Grammar Nazi on patrol all of the time.

But since I replied to this, I will add to it. When I frame out a basement with medal studs, I still put down the pressure treated. This in the least gives me a nailer. I also cut wood blocking to stuff between the cavity at cabinet heights, certain areas for closet shelving, and even at door knob height. I install door knob blocking no matter if its medal or wood. In the future, it keeps the door from blasting through the wall, and/or is a nice block to screw a wall mounted door stop to. That’s food for thought. Good Luck.

There is a post here, that isn’t accurate….but I am not in the calling out mood today.

firemike

Hi Rich!

I use metal studs as much as I can. Almost always in commercial work, especially partition walls and such. And residential when I can, basements are perfect. Also, as Peladu mentioned, I use a treated bottom plate if there is any likelyhood of moisture being a factor, and screw my bottom channel to that, plus it doubles as a nailer for smaller base molding. Metal studs are easy to work with, always straight, won't warp after their installed, and lighter and easier to carry that wood. I also have a few pairs of crimpers that crimp the connection where the stud meets the channel. Works great, and makes things go quick.

For cutting, I have a regular metal stud cutter, it is a shear that you put the stud or track in and pull a lever and it cuts it easily. If I can get away with it, I use a chop saw, that way I can cut a whole bundle of studs at once. I have also seen a blade that fits 7 to 8 inch circ saws that is made specifically for cutting metal studs. I have not personally used one, but the guy at the wholesaler says they sell quite a few of them. HD and Lowes carry them too.

For insulating, I generally use fiberglass batts. A good supply house stocks the full width insulation for metal framing (it is actually 16" or 24" wide-faced or unfaced)

Also, like Teetor said, you have to plan on what you hang on them. If I am going to install cabinets, I install 2x8 backer boards on the flat where the cabinets need to be hung. For smaller hanging items, I use toggle bolts into the studs. For doors and windows, I frame the metal rough opening larger to allow for a wood 2x4 or 2x6 to wrap the inside of the opening to the actual RO size I need to give me a nailer for the jamb/frame and trim. I also install nailers at the bottom for baseboard trim in needed, but generally in commercial they spec vinyl base. For smaller wood base, 4" or less, I glue it and shoot in a few finish nails to hold it in place. For the backers, I just use 1x4 or 2x4 with a couple screws in the bottom track hold them. (Good place to get rid of a bunch of short off-cuts

My electrician loves when I use metal studs. The holes are already there, and he used boxes that snap right onto the stud and secure with the same screws I use for the wall framing, so they don't cost him anything, (he steals them from me). He says the added cost of the bushings is far cheaper than the labor is to drill all the holes. I bought him a metal stud punch (he's a good guy, he deserved it)for those rare occasions where he needs a hole and one isn't there, or to make holes in the upper track. A good hole saw would serve the same purpose. Same with the plumber, he prefers metal studs to wood. No fire danger and he can flex the metal stud or take a couple screws out and move the stud around to get his pipes in.

The studs may seem flimsy, but once you glue and screw the drywall to the studs, it becomes a single unit and is very strong. For lighter guage studs, I use regular sharp point drywall screws, they zip in with no problem. One hint is to install the screws near the back of the stud, the corner nearer the bent corner of the "C" shape, if you try try to install them to close to the open end of the "C" shape, sometimes the screw will push the side flange away and go sideways. If you use heavier guage studs, use self-drilling screws.

Peladu

fire mike ....... now that was a good post.:Thumbs:

mtnframer

Nice post Mike,but no need to glue metal for rock,
Steve

Rich

Thank You for all the helpful information.
I will print out these posts and have a great reference manual .

Jason

I'm doing the same thing Rich. I'm framing a basement with metal studs and doing doorways with firerated 2x4's.

The above suggestions are great.

PS. First time using metal studs.

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IHI

WEll, since this post was rehashed I have to ask in light of recent troubles with treated lumber eating all things metal and given the damp environment of the basements, how are these PT topped with steel tracks holding up? The principal of it is sound, but the fact this treated eats everything unless it's stainless or triple treated (which is'nt even proven to withstand this new crap yet but a last ditch ploy by the lumber company) I'm wondering about long term durability? Or is this practice still too new yet also?

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firemike

I guess you could put down some foam sill seal to seperate the metal from the treaded wood. I didn't think (actually forgot) about the new ACQ and such being corrosive to galvanized steel when I posted earlier. Life was so much easier with all that arsenic and copper sulfate floating around. :-)

Maybe instead of treated lumber use cedar or other rot resistant wood...

Eric K

Just a thought on the pt against metal.....maybe a pc of 3.5" luan stapled to the top of the PT board.

snapper21

Personal choice question but the only downfall i've found on the HO's side of the court is hanging pictures and such. Not a biggie, but wifey isn't too good with the screw gun and hubby seems to take too long.