Foundation Fix Or Scrap

TNGHomes

My foundation contractor formed and poured my walls at 7'8" instead of 8'8" as the plans clearly read (he took the measurement from the bottom of the footing instead of from the top I belive). Now, do I tear it down and start over with another contractor or should I pin the sill remove the windows and pour the extra foot. The reason is the drive under garage will not have enough head room obviously. If any other GCs could give me any advice on what action I should take Id appreciate it.

narlyman

Your contractor really screwed up, now you have a choice to make. The top of the wall can be drilled and he can install rods using epoxy form up another 12 inches and pour to top. You will have joint and a possible leak point. I would check with your local building codes and call the Building Inspections and see if they will allow for this. You may also need a Structrural Engineer to OK what is being proposed. It could be called a tie-beam. If it is done properly it is perfectly fine.


Good Luck

TNGHomes

Thanks Narly- I was thinking I should cut in a key way as well, what do think? wouldnt hurt huh

K2

The block guys would just add another course or two but I agree your form setter left you in a tough spot.

Customer's approval and an engineer's stamp on the repair if it was me between the rocks.

Chris Johnson

The guys above have given the best advice, either form and pour the extra foot or use CMU's, both with an epoxied rebar to the original pour, also you might consider framing a 1' knee wall on top if your current situation is high enough above the finish grade, this won't hold your carpenters up either, it allows them to start right away rather than waiting for the fix. So there is three fixes which should give you options for this guy, I hope you backcharge him!!!

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Chris

TNGHomes

He going to get charged back the 10% deposit and aint going to see a Fu&*ing dime for the crete or labor. Thanks for the knee wall tip-didnt think of that.

kubotaman333

I think you should give him a chance to make the repair before you stiff him for the whole job, that could really hurt if its just a mistake.

TNGHomes

Your probably right, I am starting to cool down alittle now. I gotta say though thats a huge mistake and If I have to tear it down then....

go do it

it is always easier to add than subtract

give him a chance to fix it though. there was alot of work done not to get paid

i would do the knee wall it would be the quickest fix.

TNGHomes

Well I am able to save the short foundation and pin it as many of you had suggested. The total for the repair is reasonable and everyone signed off on it ( Se, Inspector, Home Owner )so the original contractor will be paid in full and everyone lives happily ever after.

Its kinda funny, this ended up being like a support group for one very pi$$ed off Builder, thanks guys!

Glasshousebltr

Give him a chance to repair .....we all make mistakes ....this one just happens to be a whopper with fry's.

Also .....If it's above grade I'd just build a knee wall and bring the siding down a bit. It sure makes it easier for freezeless, electric outlets, dryer vents, etc.

See .....there's a rainbow in ever crapper.

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Bob

kubotaman333

glad it worked out for you.

mdshunk

I don't know, Bob. I just checked all of mine, and they just have water in them.


This was a Jim-Dandy of a screw up, but I don't see it as being much different than the people who use open truss floor joists that are probably 2 feet tall. They have essentially the same issue, with a little extra siding hanging down over the flooring system. Adding a knee wall, while a shame it needs to be done, isn't that big of a deal in the grand scheme of things.

rino1494

Everyone makes mistakes, it really isn't that big of a deal. There is a builder in my area that pours 7' walls and builds kneewalls for the extra 2' of basement to save on concrete. I honestly don't think that it saves any money.

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K2

Adding a knee wall might be ok if works with the grade but if you were talking about adding 2 exterior steps to my house or say an assisted living project it would not fly.

I was into zero step building 15 years ago where the piano mover just rolls that puppy in with no extra charges. The boomers are getting old. Steps are a problem.

JustaFramer

Why be pissed off. Pours are broken up all the time in heavy construction. I have done several in the last 6 months. Unless the top of the wall was hard troweled which would require some bushing. Still pretty petty.
A good vibrator man can make that cold joint disappear.
Did this 2 weeks ago as a matter of fact. Stacked a 14 foot structural wall on top of near hundred year old concrete. Except for the old 2x6 plank form imprints on the old wall vs the mdo finish of the new you can't see a weak seem.

K2

I agree Will but with most heavy construction you are not worried about your cold joints letting water into a basement. Resi cold joints leak in my experience however a cold joint one foot from the tow is probably ok. Also you heavy construction guys probably have an engineer signing off on everything you do... Good to hear from you.

JustaFramer

I agree. I think water stop should be poured in at the exterior side.