Best Way To Fasten Plywood Forms To Concrete Block?

sk071077

For the past 3 years I've been doing 90% finish carpentry. I recently was asked to bid a forming job. I'm from florida where the shell is built in concrete block and then a solid concrete tie-beam is poured on top of the walls.

In the past I've worked with contractors who used case hardened coil nails to shoot the plywood on. And one contractor I worked for tapcnned all the forms on. Shooting the nails seemed to be a quicker way to go, but taking the forms off with the tapcons was nice and clean.

I just figured I'd ask to see if anyone had any thoughts on this matter. Also does anyone know what brand coil nailer shoots the hardened nails?
I appreciate any info...

THANKS

rbsremodeling

Mam, around here we use Cut nails and a hammer

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BigLou80

I would use tapcon even though ramsets are faster just for the ease of removing them, but I don't pour bond beams day in and day out so maybe you don't want to listen to me

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rustyjames

I think the tapcons are the way to go. They really don't take that long to install and you can reuse them.

Willie T

Good Lord. A "T" nailer is the absolute ONLY way to go. It takes about 6 seconds to nail on a 2' x 8' 3/4" plywood form side for a lintel run. Put all the sides on the house in about 45 minutes, then you go up top and slap lintel clamps on the whole mess. It's a three hour-two man job, complete, for a 2,500sf house. (OK, maybe a little longer... and three men make it a lot easier... )

Almost all of the 7/8" (or 1" or 1-1/8" if you can't find the 7/8") "T" nails pull right off with the plywood, and the ones that don't, a kid can go around and pull out quickly with a crowbar in about 30 minutes.

Don't even think of using anything but a "T" nailer. And you can rent the lintel clamps almost anywhere.

But I have to ask, why the heck you aren't using lintel blocks instead? Let the masons do all the work.

Here's a picture file with the idea....

Attached Files

Lintel forming.doc (140.5 KB, 255 views)

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"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
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Bill Everett - St. Petersburg, FL

AtlanticWBConst

IMHO - I'd leave the forming to form carpenters. You are attemtping to take too big of a leap out of your finished carpentry realm.

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sk071077

thanks....especially wiilie t

strightclaw

4 penny cut nail

DavidG19

I suggest an ET&F Fastening Systems Model 210 t-nailer. It shoots heat treated t nails from 1" to 2-1/2".

SWAY79

Definetly Tap-Con, if you use a ram set or even hand driven ram set nails you risk cracking or spalding the block. When you use the Tap-Con system, the pilot hole usualy prevents that, but not always.



GOOD LUCK

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maurisgreen

Hello

I am not used it !

I will use than say anything !

ok !

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bwalley

On clean outs I have had tapcons fail, never had a failure when I used a T Nailer.

Mud Master

Tap Cons in my opinion.

Pilot hole keeps it secure, and creates ease of removal. Just don't strip em' out.

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SWAY79

You may be right, I've never heard of a "T" nailer. I may know it by a different name. How does it work? What does it look like?

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Willie T

Type - T Nailer - into your Google window. Click on <images>.

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"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Bill Everett - St. Petersburg, FL

bwalley

http://www.thefloorpro.com/community...ler-rs-t-n.jpg

kaitlin

I hope to run a wall parallel to the joists, but not directly underneath a joist, screw a 2 × 4 bridge every 2' to 3' to the joists. Screw the top plate to the bridges.
If you have no pipes at the ceiling, screw the bridge between the joists rather than under them.
We opted to build the wall directly below a joist, so we didn't bother with bridges. To allow clearance for pipes and conduit, we screwed blocks of 2 × 4 to the joist, and then attached the top plate to the blocks.

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