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#1 |
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Registered User
Trade: Contractor
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
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Using Pressure Treated Lumber Instead Of HardiTrim?
Hello
I am repairing a 10 year old house built with hardiplank and painted cedar wood trim. It was not properly installed, flashed and caulked so there is a water infiltration on the weather side. I will most likely be replacing the siding on this wall. The customer wants this done right. Lots of rain! I am thinking of using primed pressure treated lumber for the trim and corners. Any opinions on this? I cannot find the post but "Burby" recommended this. Gary Last edited by spiral; 01-06-2009 at 10:03 PM. |
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#2 |
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Smart phone? Scan me!
Trade: Painting/Framing/Drywall
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: tWiliGht zOne
Posts: 2,118
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Re: Using Pressure Treated Lumber Instead Of HardiTrim?
Use only screws or nails that are galvanized and designed for pressure-treated wood
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuild...ood-decks.aspx |
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#3 |
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Pro
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Re: Using Pressure Treated Lumber Instead Of HardiTrim?
I have used Pressure treated since the first failure of man made trim. Wood has proven itself over & over. Customers may know it is the fault of the trim, but still look at you, because it failed, leaving a customer questioning your knowledge of materials used.
You can use # 1, but it is rare I use # 1 here in SC, because we have nice hot weather, with lots of sun. With the # 2, (depending on how wet the lumber is when delivered, I mean by standing water on the lumber) if none, soon as it is unloaded, we find a place off the lawn & spray or sponge mop with Olympic Clear seal, install, siding & trim, after at least 72 hrs, then it can painted with 100% acrylic latex paint. I use S/W problock. Then finish with 2 coats S/W latex exterior super paint grade at the least. Works great every time. The Olympic clear seal slows the drying process, minimizes shrinkage & movement as wood dries. Must always wait 72 hrs before painting, manufacturers recommendation. The latex allows any moisture inside the wood to escape without harming the finish, Also consider one of their elastomeric Sealants, we use NP1 from roofing supply, but I believe it is S/W's Pro select is the caulk they developed with the same properties as NP1 for exterior use. Caulk exposed nail heads as well to prevent moisture seeping in.
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Proud to help make a house your Home Never judge another by one's own intelligence |
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#4 |
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Curmudgeon
Trade: carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 11,707
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Re: Using Pressure Treated Lumber Instead Of HardiTrim?
Best bet is see if your supplier
can get KDAT for you. A lot would depend on WHERE YOU ARE! Here in the East PT = YP, West coast guys get fir... a totally different animal. My experience is Alkyd primers work best, but I either use KDAT, or order ahead and let it air dry for 4-6 weeks.
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Put your location in your profile! (Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions) |
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#5 |
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Pro
Trade: Siding, Windows, Seamless Gutters, Metal Roofing
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,761
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Re: Using Pressure Treated Lumber Instead Of HardiTrim?
why not use azek? I cant see the logic of installing something that will rot, next to siding that is supposed to last forever.
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Originally Posted by Celtic Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens. |
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#6 |
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Pro
Trade: siding
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 8,864
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Re: Using Pressure Treated Lumber Instead Of HardiTrim?
I agree Patrick or the hardie trim i never used it but my buddy has had good luck with it
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#7 |
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Registered User
Trade: Contractor
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
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Re: Using Pressure Treated Lumber Instead Of HardiTrim?
Thanks for all the replies.
1) All stainless. 2) I am in Japan near Tokyo close to the ocean, where we have a rainy season where everything is wet for a month and often driving rain. There is a subculture of western framers, drywallers/ painters. A lot of this work is shared. 3) Exterior is usually left to the Japanese and generally, siding is always installed with a half inch air gap here. This is Hardiplank so I am stuck with the job. The Hardiplank is right on the Tyvek allowing no air circulation. I know this is US standard but it is also the cheapest way. It seems that Tyvek Drainwrap was made to address this problem. I doubt whether it is as effective as an air gap. 4) Azek - maybe good but i will not use it. 3/4 of the house seems OK. I have done some prodding, but will do more when I get into it. 5) Some of the materials will be coming in a container from Washington and stored in a small warehouse I have. It will sit for a while before I use it so it will be very dry. Although not the best place to get wood, it will come from Home Depot or Lowes. I assume they will not go bankrupt this month. Thanks all Gary |
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#8 | |
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Pro
Trade: Siding, Windows, Seamless Gutters, Metal Roofing
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,761
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Re: Using Pressure Treated Lumber Instead Of HardiTrim?Quote:
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Originally Posted by Celtic Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens. |
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#9 | |
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Sean
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Re: Using Pressure Treated Lumber Instead Of HardiTrim?Quote:
![]() Seriously though - Welcome to CT, you might want to post an intro in the appropriate section, and slap your location in your profile. The next item - WE WANT PICS |
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