Uneven Ground Siding Question

shazamyman

....My total length is 66 ft. long building about 10-12 ft total ht.


on one end i have about 19 inches, other end i have about 3 feet


so my idea is to snap my line for my starter strip at the 19 inch side, run its the length of the building and nail my starter on


Then for the remaining are work the siding back wards, ill nail the first pieces nail strip , under the starter strip and work up as normal, but work down backwards , snapping lines as i go so i don't lose the General area of where the piece is supposed to fit, hold up the piece above, nail the nail strip area, and the connect the above...and so on till i get to the ground area, and attach more starter to hold it in place...of course this part will be different as i move every 4 ft..back towards the 19 inch side...lastly having to cut a long angle piece and having to hide my nails ....



got that????


what do y'all think?


sound right or is there anothe way i can go with this?

Patrick

WTF are you talking about?

are you talking about a stepped wall? Or the base of the wall is actually on the diagonal? you seem to be making this too complicated. Do you have a picture?

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

odellconstruct

are you aligning up with other siding ? what type of siding d4 ? is this being nailed on wood or concrete ? is there a level line to start with or is foundation 19 in to 3 ' , is starter a option at bottom or does it come to a point (triangle shape)? if its foundation just run a level line and go from there , doesnt have to be against ground.

odellconstruct

i thought i was going crazy trying to understand or i need to stop drinking lol

softtop95ta

start siding from the lowest point............ rule # 2 ....awww just practice #1 for tonight .We will give you #2 tommorow 7:30 sharp , and bring a lunch it's gonna be a long day

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Tom R

You're hard as hell to understand, - - I have no idea exactly what you're talking about, - - but as softtop said, - - you always start from your lowest piece.

A long angled piece will look (and maybe even smell) like sh!t, - - you should 'step' it, - - (not to be confused with 'step in it')

Chalk a level line at that 19" point like you said, - - then move to where grade is at least 8" (or whatever your siding width is) below, - - and chalk another line 8" below and parallel to your original line. Then go again to where you have another 8" of space to grade and chalk a line parallel and below that one.

You wouldn't normally 'angle' a bottom row of siding unless it's coming off of a roof.

And your siding wouldn't normally be right to grade . . .

easy sider

Snap one level line across the wall. Measure down from the top to see what your top panel height will be and adjust your line if need be. Measure down from that line in muliples of at least half the panel width to find start lines. Try to make these start lines as long as you can to gain height quicker. If you dont understand you can take graph paper and draw this procedure and then maybe you will.
Good Luck

Patrick

If its what I am thinking of, I would frame in some steps so that you eliminate that gradual slant, and create a few steps

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

72chevy4x4

it doesn't make any sense that one end of the bldg would be 19" and the other end 36" without steps in the foundation. not sure why anyone would frame a sloped wall like that. I would snap the high line all the way across (careful of the bow in the middle) then come down from that reference line throughout the length of the wall (i.e. 20" in the middle and 32" on the end). the graph paper idea is a good one-lay it out to scale to make sure your wall layout is 'good', othewise you could end up with a really crappy layout with J everywhere and bad reveal at the top course.

easy sider

That's my thought as well to catch 17 inches with a double 5 we would do 2 10 inch steps possibly. It kind of depends where the elevation changes where the steps would look the best and be the most efficient. Its hard to do layout without something to look at.

shazamyman

did i for get to mention its a mobile home sitting on the chassis" leveled" by block, and the grade is uneven sorry for the confusion the area where i was going to side that would be uneven is where the old skirting was, but i have decided for that area just to use a vertical approach instead of horizontal siding, skirt panels or soffit or something...

Thanks, i did read thru what ya'll posted and wrapped my mind around what i could have done.

thanks

Tom M

There are a ton of tricks I can share if you dont know. One is : if you use 8" or 9" or 10" siding then panel to panel is that number. When you pull marks around corners at different levels you should mark the top of the nailer and take measurments from there. I had to break so many guys out of the habit of marking the lock or other assumed reference line. This habit creates problems like up a 1/4 here down a 1/4 there-- its dumb. Find a level line anywhere and see where you are--then nail a starter, lock up a panel, mark the top and mark down if you need to. If a starter dont work try what I do. Flip panel of siding upside down, cut off the nailer but leave the curved edge, cut the panel at the halfway crease, punch holes and now you have an oversized starter.

Patrick

Thats a pretty expensive starter strip Tom. Its also pretty hard to cut it without breaking the hem.

What normal people do is, either purchase over sized starter, make one out of coil. or rivet a regular starter to hemmed pieces of coil.

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

Patrick

that area MUST be skirting. You should NOT use regular siding. You must use either vented soffit pannels, or lattice with some mesh attached to the back. It is very important to get air flow under that trailer. Even though KayKan is the crappiest brand of siding in the world, they have a decent trailer skirting system for cheap.

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

HomeSealed

Does it it have a HEMI!? ...Sweeet!

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Patrick

I just measured a 100 year old house last night for siding, it used to be on main street but then someone moved it 3 miles up the road a few years ago. Does that classify as a mobile home?

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

thesidingpro

I would run an angle the entire way and stay about 6" above grade.

I think stepping makes it look like junk.

So what if you have a 100" angle. That's that many less pieces with that angle on it.

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Tom M

I beg to differ, aluminum is more expensive than the scrapes of vinyl you accumulate on a job. If you saw the technique you would see how it dont break.
That sounds very costly with L&M. Normal people dont exist,especially in the siding business. They also dont sell oversized starter maybe 3" opposed to the 2 1/2" not much of a change. Any time I even considered ordering a "remodeling starter" it was not a stock item. That technique works in all odd spots like a champ. Same with cantilevers when starter wont work and jay cant be nailed or holds water. You have to think out of the box not like a box.

Patrick

5" Starter $5.10 stocked in all branches

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

thesidingpro

I've always made my own starter it's the only way.

It's cheaper and better.

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