Suggestions On Azek Window And Corner

72chevy4x4

I'm looking to put up 5/4" Azek 6" corners and would like to run my Quest DT 5" under the Azek with no J trim and looking for good installation practices. I'm considering wrapping the corner w/ 24" coil stock or Grace I&W (if it's acceptable) , then fastening a 7/8" wood/composite block to build out the corner and provide a nailing surface for the Azek corner. Since I'm 'milling' the block, I considered providing for 1.5" of overlap over the siding.

Since the corners are 5 1/2" wide, I'm considering wrapping the corners w/ 5/8" 5" (4 1/2" wide), thinking the difference in size might be attractive. Can anyone provide input?

when building out a window casing with Azek (or wood and wrapping with Al), what is the best practice for locating the drip cap above the window and carrying the siding above the window (while not using visible J and nearly 100% weatherproof)?

Patrick

Why dont you use the premade corners? They come pre glued and ready for vinyl siding, they also have a nail flange so there are NO face nails. If you make your own, they should be furred out with azek material, NOT wood. If you must use wood, at least make an aluminum J to sit inside the pocket.

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

72chevy4x4

sorry for not specifying on the corners, I am going w/ the premade corners. The rabbit joint holding the corner together looks quite strong. what nailing flanges are you referring to? The Azek I saw at the supply house and the Azek product manual do not show it. I was considering making an 'L' for the terminating edge of the vinyl under the corner-not sure there is a need for the third side (making a 'J').

Patrick

http://www.advancedtrimwright.com/pr...cornertrim.htm

You can use those clips for ANY application of trim, I think its the ONLY way to go, Face nails will always look bad unless you paint.

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

MJW

I dug this post up looking for suggestions...........

I want to use azek to wrap a garage door frame instead of coil, and then use a 3" wide azek for trim and form a J pocket. What is the best way to fasten it? I thought of just using galvanized trim nails. I haven't used the stuff yet, but would like some info.

Everyone here has simple J channel and coil on everything. Would like to get away from that.

loneframer

Here are some examples of Azek used to form an internal receiver. The garage door and the shower door are cased with 5/4 Azek plowed out 1"x3/4", an aluminum L was used to flash the receiver. The window surround is 3/4 sheet goods with a 3/4 faceframe used to form the receiver. 1/2" sheet goods were used to make the applied panels. A vinyl base cap was used to give the panel some dimension. . Everything gets glued with Christy's Red Hot PVC adhesive. I facenail with 16 ga. stainless gun nails. Filling the holes is unsightly unless you are painting because the filler always attracts dirt.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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Patrick

WE buy from a company that makes azek garage door kits for us the jam is welded to the face trim and it has a nail flange. you cut and install your two side jambs and then you put on your head, flash it and your good to go NO face nails

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

MJW

Thanks loneframer. I agree filling the holes is unsightly. I don't even fill them on interior trim. Never heard of the glue, but it was a thought I had when thinking about how to apply this stuff.

For cutting, does a regular Diablo blade in a miter saw work well?

MJW

How do you flash it out with the J channel built in like that?

Patrick

we back caulk the trim nail the flanges, and then tape it off with 6" or 9" window flashing tape just like a window

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Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

loneframer

The only problem with the Diablo is, if it is a new blade, the red paint will stain the end cut and could be unsightly. I prefer a blade with no more than 40 or 60 teeth maximum on a 12" blade to prevent overheating. Too many teeth will distort the cut by thermal expansion. 32 teeth will even give decent results. In any case, a sharp blade is a must for satisfactory results.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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loneframer

Herer are a few more. The ovals are cut from 3/8 sheet goods, a 3/4 packer backs it up., ripped 1" narrower. In this case you could take an L-flashing, snip it every 2 inches, step flash it with tabs and give it a liberal dose of Lexel clear to seal 'er up. Same for garage door trims. Columb bases are also 100% Azek.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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MJW

Thanks for the tips guys!

I have seen a few other brands that are similar to Azek. Are they all really that similar, or have you used them?

Any other pics or suggestions are appreciated. If it goes well, I hope to use this type of moulding more often. Some homeowners don't care for too much white, but I think it looks great!

loneframer

Certainteeds line is nice and works exactly like Azek. I haven't had the opportunity to bead it or dado it for a beam wrap, but for basic joining it is very nice.
You said you like pics? Oh, boy. Here are some others.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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