Starting Hardi Siding

WNYcarpenter

We're going to be using cedar shake replica siding....approx. 14"x4' planks. 7" exposure with open grooves between "shakes" that expose the previous course.

With hardi clapboards we use 1 1/4"x 5/16" pt rippings to kick out the first course. With the grooves in the siding we're using, the backer course has to be solid for atleast 7". With bevel siding we could just rip the top off a plank and use that. This isn't beveled so the bottom of the 1st course would'nt be tight to the backer course... By ALOT!

The solution I came up with was to run 1/2"x8" beveled cedar clapboards all along the water table to start, or place cedar utility shingles at every rain groove.

Our PM is looking into manufacturer's suggested installation procedures, but 'till then....any tips, ideas, or flaws with my solution? Cost effectiveness?

Kgmz

We use the individual Hardie shingles and not the shingle panels, but the installation is basically the same.

We use the same starter strip like you mention for the lap siding, and add a 8.25" panel on top of this and then the shingle. This way the angle on the one row of lap siding under the shingles is perfect. And it doesn't stick out any farther than the normal shingle courses since the shingles have 3 layers at points.

I don't if I would want cedar bevel underneath, since it can't breath very well. And this may shorten its life drastically.

Patrick

Thats what we have done. I also agree not to use the cedar, I have seen this done, and it appears to get soggy

__________________
Originally Posted by Celtic
Like I said...I'm sure you are very good at what you do ~ whatever that is and where ever it happens.

Grumpy

Depending on your location, JH makes several installation manuals http://www.hardie.com/builder/produc...Tab=jsnavLink4

WNYcarpenter

I mocked up a section this afternoon.

1 1/4"x5/16 strip....ripped the top off a panel, flipped it upside down, then applied a full panel. It works okay, but it really pushes the thickness limit of our skirting.

At grade we generally start with a 5/4x8" skirt with a 2 1/2" beveled water table....The only section we're "shingling" is a cut gable above a 2' roof line(not functional) that breaks up that end of the house. We're not using a water table in this situation, just 5/4, 15/16 trim to keep the siding off the roof.

Kicking out the first course 15/16" seemed a little too much, it still does, but it's gonna work.

Thanks for the help!

siding savage

for the hardie shakes the starter strip just us a 8 1.4 piece of siding