MJW

Good idea, but it wouldn't pass for code around here. The only thing that breathes is buildrite or buffalo board. Most went to sheathing (OSB or Ply) for strength, but it's not really needed....especially with 2x6 wall. In the near future I see a new system for walls. A sealed cavity never works.

loneframer

Why would it not pass for code? All manufacturers recommend spacing on all sides. ALL of them.

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" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"

strathd

Yup, I gap everything, especially sub floors. It helps prevent scalloping.

__________________
STRAT HD
Disgruntled citizen of North Mexico !!
(Formerly the USA)

MJW

Right, but any gaps that will let any air or moisture through would not pass. Gapping on the studs doesn't do anything for breathing.

loneframer

Sheathings strength axis is lengthwise of the sheet. OSB especially should run horizontally. An 1/8th gap at the edge would not be enclosed by the stud and it most certainly would help to vent moisture from within the wall cavity. In the town that I've done most of my work in, code enforcement requires edge spacing on the sheet. The exterior of a building must allow moisture in the form of vapor to pass through, in my climate anyway, this may vary from zone to zone. Tyvek is designed to do just that, but if moisture in the form of water gets behind it, it must first evaporate, then pass through. That is why I prefer #30 felt paper. It will wick moisture through in the form of water to speed up the drying process. Moisture enters wall cavities for a variety of reasons, I do my best to deal with that reality.

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" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"

MJW

We run the sheathing vertically. If it is short (11 foot wall) and spliced, it has to be backed with framing(2x6's)....same thing if it is run horizontally. Scab 2x6's are put on the splices to meet code.

katoman

We always run sheathing horizontal also. Not 100% sure, but I think I heard once that when the engineers are determining strength of a wall structure they include the sheathing installed in a horizontal manner.

MJW

I totally agree it is stronger, but it takes a ton of blocking and that added strength may not be necessary.

loneframer

I've seen many homes built with nothing more than a 4x8 standup on the corners with foam panels in between, so strong enough is probably true. I used to work for a guy who stood sheets up for a few years. The problem I saw was that studs couldn't be straightened unless done before sheathing, which we also used to do on the floor before standing. In addition the plywood used to "washboard" between studs because the strength axis runs lengthwise not across the sheet. MJW, what is the code for roof sheathing in your location? How is your roof sheathing oriented? Do you also have to block behind edges on the roof?

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" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"

katoman

We don't need to put in blocking here.

MJW

Nothing for the roof. Just 24" spacing on rafters, 1/2" OSB, and clips. That is the norm. I have been on a few jobs ( 3 plexes) that the inspector insisted on plywood, but that wasn't any code that I know of.

loneframer

If the roof assembly is so simple, I'm having a hard time understanding the wall blocking. Do you know the reason that it is required?

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" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"

MJW

Our energy code is horendous. The walls are so sealed up to save a few bucks on energy. Usually the sheetrocker rips through most of the poly though that it doesn't matter. The walls rott from the inside out. We are finding that out slowly now that a bunch of the newer houses are being re-sided because of hail. Pull a nail out that missed a stud on OSB, and you will see that it is rusted and wet. I just seen a house (Contractor friend of mine's job) where they had to replace a bunch of wall sheathing and insulation, and it's less than 10 years old.

I'm not exactly sure when these energy codes went into effect here, but I know there is a ton of rotting houses out there.

loneframer

Sounds like a big building boom coming your way, or at the very least a great home repair market.

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" It's a Jersey thing, you wouldn't understand"

Ranzan

Our Codes since 05 have gone through the roof as far as exteriors go.
We use a rainscreen system

typical double 30 paper then 3/8 to 3/4 2 inch ply stripes vertical on 16 inch centers with horizontal continuous ply at soffit line for fire proofing. all openings we use p&s ..with windows 1/4 shimmed at bottom for drainage then caulked on vertical and head jams. then p&s over over same vertical and horizontal nail flange.

Siding no longer has anything to do with weatherproofing it is all in behind the drainage cavity

engineers now say 26 guage steel flashing will fail before p&s membrane
so 1 layer of 30 minute paper behind flashing. install flashings with 1/2 inch to 1 inch end dams at heads then 4 to 6 inch p&s over 4 inch back flashing, then 2 layers 30 minute paper over p&s membrane and your good to go

easy sider

I Agree. Also, when selling a job to a unknown client, showing this type of picture might scare them away. Its better to sell the positive than show the negative.

rojigga

This is all well and good on the rainy shores of Vancouver Island... but do you think it may be overkill on sites that see way less precipitation than in your area?

Besides that, P&S only works when fastened by its own 'stick,' and anyone who has used it in frigid temperatures can attest to it's unwillingness to adhere in all but good conditions (hammertackers will be needed otherwise; that said, membrane is self sealing).

I don't believe flashing will fail before P&S as most of flashings are covered and are solid structure. If that were the case, why flash? Lets just membrane the crap out of everything? I'm assuming you say this because metal corrodes and plastic/rubber does not.

If I believe everything engineers say then there would be some pretty unbelievable structures out there that otherwise would not exist.

Ranzan

don`t get me wrong I am in total agreement about flashing to p&s ..... they went to school to learn that.
as far as p&s and the elements yes specs say good to install at 5 above no way did a commerical building when the lowest it got was maybe 10 ....350 windows later with hear guns.........................................
I think having it as a BC wide code is extreme on the west coast with the amount of rain we get okay but not up in the interior or the dry areas of the province

siding guy23

P+S sucks. In about 2-3 years the edge puckers due to heat/cold cycles. This breaks the seal with the window flange and it will start to leak. Blue goop the window flange and tyvek. It's the only way.